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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally got some extra time to do a few things that were on my list to my 1st Ed. ID4.1st thing I did was install my 2nd HomeLink Mirror. The 1st one I ordered must has been defective because it would only open my garage door directly under the door opener. I left and got locked out cause it would not work outside of my house. The replacement works with no issue.
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I was already using the VIFO a139 in my Subaru and have had no issue with it so far so I decided to order and install it in my ID4 as well. Using a hardwire kit I wired it up to a ATC fuse trap on fuse F52(20Amp cigarette lighter) using a 5Amp ATC passthrough fuse after moving it to the always on position for the parking mode, and fuse F29(15Amp control unit for trailer detection) using a 5Amp ATC passthrough fuse for the ignition on mode. I don't plan on towing anything and already removed the tow hitch so I think it will be fine to use. Let me know if anyone thinks I should change it. I used my Dremel to cut a small hole in the rear view mirror shroud to have the cables come cleanly out. I think it turned out very nice, and it is also hidden from the drivers seat :).

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I was not happy about the 5watt built in wireless charger as 5 watts is not enough power for WIFI for wireless android auto, Cellular for data, GPS for navigation, and Bluetooth for audio all running at the same time while also trying to charge the phone. After a trip my phone would have less battery then before leaving(long trips it has died), I don't know how VW thought 5watts was enough although there are many threads pointing this out. I wanted a clean solution so I installed a SCOSCHE MCQD-XTET MagicMount Charge3 10W wireless charger using a hardwired USB quick charge 3.0+USB-C PD power adaptor. I am currently only using the USB port and it is rated at 5V/3.1A, 7V/2.4A, 9V/2A, 12V/1.5A based of the negotiation between the phone and charger. I hardwired it using a fuse tap on fuse F20(10amp telephone[LTE modem]) using a 5Amp ATM fuse so that it can charge when the ignition is off. Note: I did change to a 5Amp fuse even though the picture has a 7.5Amp one. I may in the future also use the 18W PD USB-C port but I think I will have to change to a higher fuse than 5Amps and pick a different fuse to tap off of as the draw will probably be more than 10amp for my adaptor and the car's LTE modem. I did not have much time today to poke around too much, but if you got a better fuse I should use to use both USB ports I think 7.5Amp would be fine that is always on w/o ignition let me know, I didn't want to use the cigarette lighter cause I already have a fuse tap for the dash cam and there may be times I would like to use the rear cigarette lighter for 15Amps like camping.
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Everything that I have read says that the high voltage battery keeps the 12v battery topped off so I am interested to see if this is true or if my dash cam in parking mode will drop the voltage of the 12V battery below 12V. I am not that worried about the phone charger because it will rarely be charging the phone when the ignition is not on. I currently have the dash cam hardwire kit set to shut off at 11.8V to test this. I also wonder what the minimum voltage of the battery needs to be to start the car, if anyone has information about this please let me know, if find anything interesting I will report back.

Parts used (Normal links not affiliated):
3 Channel Dash Cam WiFi GPS VIOFO A139, Front+Interior+Rear 1440P+1080P+1080P
VIOFO HK3-C Acc Hardwire Kit
SCOSCHE MCQD-XTET MagicMount Charge3 10W Magnetic Qi-Certified Wireless Adhesive Charging Dash Mount
ATC Fuse Tap
ATM Fuse Tap
36W Fast PD USB-C Car Charger with USB Quick Charge 3.0
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
I could not fit the pictures in the OP so I will add them here. I also got some door edge guards and installed them all around the car. The one I ordered was 33ft and was enough to do the doors, hood, hatch, and the charge port. I think it pops with the white paint and looks real good. I still have some left over and might add more in a few spots like in the top part of the hatch. I might also see if it can go on the front part of the front doors and no affect the door closing.
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Parts used (Normal links not affiliated):
Car Door Edge Guards 33Ft(10M) Universal Fit Rubber U Shape Edge Trim Car Door Edge Protection
 

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Pro S Gradient RWD White / Black
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480 Posts
Anything you put on that white ID.4 is gonna look good 😁(y)

So I just hardwired my dashcam, thanks for showing us how you did yours. I am wondering though, you mentioned that you used F52 in always on position for parking mode, and F29 for ignition mode / ACC. I have a Pro S (not first edition), so it may be different that way, because it did not come with tow package, F29 and F31 are blanks. I found that on my car, F29 and also F31 are always on. So for my dash cam, I do it in reverse this way: F52 in ignition mode for ACC/ignition, and F29 for always on. Here is a picture of my fuse box:

Audio equipment Electronic component Computer hardware Electrical wiring Electronic engineering


Before using F29 and F52 (which works fine so far), I tapped on some random blank spots, F47 and F49 (temporary to test the dash cam / being lazy. Running the wires through a-pillar, navigating air bags, and towards the rear was a pain in the you know what). Those fuse blanks were ignition only, and it seems to work fine for a few power ups, but suddenly while the car was stationary but in ON position, "Travel Assist not available" errors started popping up. I drove it for a while and it disappeared (during the drive). The next day it was fine for the first drive of the day. But on the second drive of that day, the travel assist error popped up again, and driving for a while did not clear the error. So I pulled to the side, pulled out the dash cam power from the fuse box, restart the car and the error was gone. I'm guessing tapping on F47 and F49 caused car computer to go crazy. (my car has been a good boy, no glitches / errors yet 🤞)

BTW my dashcam is Akeeyo 360 degrees mirror dashcam.
 
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