[spaceid]

If you are interested in purchasing at at home charger, which ones are you looking at? If you have one already, what kind do you have.

I was looking at the JuiceBox charger, but I will need to get an electrician to install a 240.

 

[MBrandenburg]

I have the Amazing E, it was really cheap on Amazon and my husband installed it in the garage with no issues.

 

[spaceid]

I was also wondering if Prime Day may have some deals.

 

[emtonsti]

I use a chargepoint 32 A consider having the electrician install a receptacle, so if the charge equipment fails, you can just unplug it to send it back for replacement / repair. Otherwise, you need the electrician to come back (if hardwired) if you have a failure.

There are a lot of options and price ranges for charge stations.

It looks like we can go to a larger charge station at home now:

AC onboard charger, maximum acceptance rate : 11 kW

That means possibly 45A or a 50A charge station, wow!

(FWIW, the wall unit is a "EVSE" (electric vehicle service equipment), so the wall unit station is really just a "charge cord" with some safety stuff built in (such as ground fault detection). The actual charger is in the car.)

 

[emtonsti]

Does anyone know if the ID.4 11kW ac charge rate is only for 3 phase (three legs, probably more commercial, few homes)? Or, can the ID.4 do 230V/240V 11kW L2 "single phase" (still two "hot" legs). Most homes have 240VAC with two hots ("single phase"), but it will take some relatively heavy cable, the electrician will determine the wire/cable size.

Or, only 32A (7.5kW) with just the two legs?

 

[kchp]

Maybe 11 kW is 240V 48A. I have not heard of an EV with 45A max charging rate. @emtonsti may be right that the spec isn't really for US.

Anyways, 48A will require a 60A electric circuit and hardwire. That's probably more hassle than worth it. I would get a 32A or 40A charger. Common brands include Clipper Creek, JuiceBox, Grizzl E. A 40-amp charger from a reputable manufacturer costs $400-600.

There's a 30% federal tax credit (up to $1000) for EV charger installations this year. The tax credit is currently scheduled to expire at the end of the year. It may or may not be renewed. Look up IRS 8911. (I'm not an accountant. I'm not an lawyer. Don't take my words for it.)

There's also a chance that the car may come with a charger. But it looks unlikely. VW didn't mention it in press release. And the charger that eGolf came with is pathetic.

 

[spaceid]

Next Gen JuiceBox 48 Amp Car Charger with WiFi | Enel X

The NEW JuiceBox 48 amp WiFi-connected electric home electric vehicle charger — the even faster way to charge your Tesla and high performance EVs at home. Shop now!

evcharging.enelx.com

Here is the 48A Juicebox. I was looking at the Juicebox 40.

 

[MBrandenburg]

Maybe 11 kW is 240V 48A. I have not heard of an EV with 45A max charging rate. @emtonsti may be right that the spec isn't really for US.

Anyways, 48A will require a 60A electric circuit and hardwire. That's probably more hassle than worth it. I would get a 32A or 40A charger. Common brands include Clipper Creek, JuiceBox, Grizzl E. A 40-amp charger from a reputable manufacturer costs $400-600.

There's a 30% federal tax credit (up to $1000) for EV charger installations this year. The tax credit is currently scheduled to expire at the end of the year. It may or may not be renewed. Look up IRS 8911. (I'm not an accountant. I'm not an lawyer. Don't take my words for it.)

There's also a chance that the car may come with a charger. But it looks unlikely. VW didn't mention it in press release. And the charger that eGolf came with is pathetic.

On the list of accessories it states it comes with one of those crappy level 1 cables like the e-golf.

 

[administrator]

We now have a new section for everything related to charging. I have moved this thread accordingly.

 

[danbee46]

Wouldn't it be cheaper just to install a 220v/30A or 40A or 50A outlet rather than spending hundreds of dollars for those "wall chargers?" Admittedly, I am a complete newcomer to this stuff.

 

[salant76]

Not that I am an expert on EVs but I can tell you I would highly recommend getting a Level 2 charger for your house before you get an ID.4 if you don't already have one.

I personally got a Chargepoint Homeflex (upto 50 amps), there are cheaper chargers but I went with that because the my local electricity supplier will be giving me $300 to buy that charger. When there is high electricity demands my supplier can throttle down how much power my charger can supply my car.

Should also point out that the original connector found on the Chargepoint Homeflex did not properly connect to my eGolf. I was told by Chargepoint that both VW's and Audi's J-1772 connectors are not fully built to the standard so Chargepoint needed to send me a new connector. Hopefully this has been resolved on VWs end.

Wanted to point out there is tax credits for getting a Level 2 charger installed at your house:

ChargePoint Home Flex | ChargePoint

 

[emtonsti]

Wouldn't it be cheaper just to install a 220v/30A or 40A or 50A outlet rather than spending hundreds of dollars for those "wall chargers?" Admittedly, I am a complete newcomer to this stuff.

The EVSE is required to be between the outlet and the EV. It does a bunch of things, let me try to get these right, it is easy to get them backwards. Here are a few:

1) EVSE tells EV what that EVSE can supply in power - An EV has a maximum ac charge rating, the most AC power it can accept in kW. Different EVSE (the wall station) have different power capability, determined in part by the EVSE model. For each model, the electrician will provide the correct size wire/cable and electrical breaker size in the box. For this one (max power available), the EVSE "tells" the charger in the car how much power it use (by the "pilot signal"). For example, I have an old Clipper Creek LSC-20 which can supply 16A mounted on the front of my home (from my first Chevy Volt). I can plug that same charge plug into an ID.4 and the ID.4 will gladly charge at 16A (3.8 kW). So the station tells the ID.4, here is 240Vac, but do not draw more than 16A.

2) EVSE ground fault protection - analogous to the ground fault outlets in our bathrooms and kitchens, the EVSE includes fault protection.

3) The cable from the EVSE is dead until the EVSE J-1772 plug is plugged into the car, and the car says I'm ready to charge. So, the cable is "safe" when stored.

None of this is optional, an EV will not charge without a proper EVSE and J-1772 plug.

 

[emtonsti]

Next Gen JuiceBox 48 Amp Car Charger with WiFi | Enel X

The NEW JuiceBox 48 amp WiFi-connected electric home electric vehicle charger — the even faster way to charge your Tesla and high performance EVs at home. Shop now!

evcharging.enelx.com

Here is the 48A Juicebox. I was looking at the Juicebox 40.

That could work.

 

[Drew18]

Subbing to thread

 

[emtonsti]

Subbing to thread

Apology, I can get a bit intense, it was so much fun to think about ID.4 up to yesterday (also, some of the speculation I found online was clearly wrong, great reminder to me about misinformation on the web). One last note here, then I think I can take a break,

On wall charge stations, it looks like there is an issue with the current rating of connectors, for example, apparently if you use the chargepoint charge flex (50A) (newer version of the old 32A chargepoint), if you want to be able to run it up to 48A, it must be hardwired (no 240V connector as I suggested earlier). As in below, max load 48A, plugin "no". hardwire "yes".

 

[Huey52]

When we recently built our 'downsized' home I purposely had the electrician rough into the garage a dedicated high amperage 220V source. It actually drove us to have a larger/higher capacity electrical panel than neighbors. I presume there are higher rate chargers available for same? Compatible suggestions? Thanks!

Wouldn't it be cheaper just to install a 220v/30A or 40A or 50A outlet rather than spending hundreds of dollars for those "wall chargers?" Admittedly, I am a complete newcomer to this stuff.

 

[Baker]

On my side I have a 240v wall station that I use for my Smart Electric. It take 2.5 hrs to full load the battery from 0. Don't forget that at home the battery will never be empty so 30amp (breaker at 40amp) is enough. Must of the time my Smart is full in 1 or 1.5hrs.
Somebody knows if VW will have an application to control the charge?

 

[Huey52]

Thanks Baker.

Does VW provide as an option a 240V charging station for local residential installation? One would think so.

 

[Baker]

Thanks Baker.

Does VW provide as an option a 240V charging station for local residential installation? One would think so.

I have seen on the site of WV in France a charger station saled by VW and called "Elvie charger" able for 11kw. It is a Wifi charger that you will control via your cell phone. I don't know if it will be available in NA!

 

[Papowell]

Not that I am an expert on EVs but I can tell you I would highly recommend getting a Level 2 charger for your house before you get an ID.4 if you don't already have one.

I personally got a Chargepoint Homeflex (upto 50 amps), there are cheaper chargers but I went with that because the my local electricity supplier will be giving me $300 to buy that charger. When there is high electricity demands my supplier can throttle down how much power my charger can supply my car.

Should also point out that the original connector found on the Chargepoint Homeflex did not properly connect to my eGolf. I was told by Chargepoint that both VW's and Audi's J-1772 connectors are not fully built to the standard so Chargepoint needed to send me a new connector. Hopefully this has been resolved on VWs end.

Wanted to point out there is tax credits for getting a Level 2 charger installed at your house:

ChargePoint Home Flex | ChargePoint

I recently purchased a 2020 egolf and I am having problems getting charging going with my Chargepoint Flex. Every other public and municipal statio seems to work fine. But most times the Chargepoint goes through a cycle of blue flashes when plugged in and the green charge symbol never lights on the dash then the connection attempt times out. The charge light at the door stays amber then goes out after the process gives up. What was your experience exactly and any info you got from Chargepoint would help. I've started a support call with.them but so far all they've said was that there are no know incompatibilities and asked me to 'double pump" by rapidly disconnecting and reconnecting which doesn't seem to.make any difference.

Thanks!