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What's the easiest, fastest, maybe automatic way to precondition the battery for an EA charge from a 30 F cold startup? Would just driving 9 miles to an EA station precondition any?
I do no home LVL 1 or 2 charging.
 

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One thing many people aren't aware of is that wind resistance doesn't double if you go twice as fast - it quadruples. Resistance is a squared function. My EV gets good mileage at 60 mph. At 70 it falls off quite a bit. If everyone else is doing 75 I will do 65 if there are good sight lines. If it's very crowded I'll go the speed everyone else goes in the outside lane or two. I want to minimize the speed differential as much as possible as many people don't think ahead much - or at all - and are unpredictable.

Even on a conventional piston engine the stresses at 3 times the rpm are 9 times greater. That's why piston engine cars have to have multiple geared transmissions. Electrical motors are subject to the same laws but have a lot less stress to begin with and the range of motion is confined to a small radius, resulting in smaller forces. Just think of a piston at rpms not only ismoving very fast at the end of a rod but TOTALLY REVERSES DIRECTION many times a second with high heat.

Just wanted to throw that out there as those principles are still at work on an EV but at a much lower level, resulting in extreme efficiency compared to a conventional engine. But speed on the highway acts the same on all cars, EV or not.
Just always drive with the wind 😉.
 

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VW ID.4 1st (picked up 3/19/21).
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What's the easiest, fastest, maybe automatic way to precondition the battery for an EA charge from a 30 F cold startup? Would just driving 9 miles to an EA station precondition any?
I do no home LVL 1 or 2 charging.
I don't think anyone knows, but my gut says 9 miles isn't enough. Someone would need to monitor battery temps with evnotify or vcds while driving, and see how fast the temp rises. It will depend on how hard.ypu drive it, I think.
 

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I don't think anyone knows, but my gut says 9 miles isn't enough. Someone would need to monitor battery temps with evnotify or vcds while driving, and see how fast the temp rises. It will depend on how hard.ypu drive it, I think.
Depending on the battery temperature when onboard coolant heater is started it will take 20 minutes or more for battery to get above 45°F and after that it will use waisted heat from electronics loop and propulsion motor and if necessary run onboard battery coolant heater with lower energy consumption. Driving hard will not be possible when battery is cold BMS will limit current available to propulsion unit. As the battery start warming up it will slowly increase power limit. And regarding how many miles it takes this will be irrelevant....BMS will take whatever time is necessary to bring battery temp to sweet spot. It will heat within couple minutes coolant to 30°C +
 

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VW ID.4 1st (picked up 3/19/21).
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It will heat within couple minutes coolant to 30°C +
I guess I am not sure what you mean by this. I thought that once the pack temp was 46F, the heater turned off - what is happening that brings the coolant to 30C?
 

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I guess I am not sure what you mean by this. I thought that once the pack temp was 46F, the heater turned off - what is happening that brings the coolant to 30C?
When onboard battery coolant heater is running this will be your inlet pid temperature. If it is running closed loop bypassing electronics loop
 

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VW ID.4 1st (picked up 3/19/21).
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After a 70 mile drive (cruise control 55-65mph), here is what I had;

Font Circle Screenshot Parallel Number



So the battery did warm up a bit, but not very much. Maybe 4-5 degrees C (8 degrees F), and this seems like it warmed up until the heater turned off, and then just a little bit more.

I am not seeing a way to warm the battery to the point where optimum DCFC charging speeds can be obtained.
 

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After a 70 mile drive (cruise control 55-65mph), here is what I had;

View attachment 7537


So the battery did warm up a bit, but not very much. Maybe 4-5 degrees C (8 degrees F), and this seems like it warmed up until the heater turned off, and then just a little bit more.

I am not seeing a way to warm the battery to the point where optimum DCFC charging speeds can be obtained.
Not possible with our software...once car net integration is done with infotainment screen and you choose fast DC chargers through the app it will precondition battery before you hit the destination.
 

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VW ID.4 1st (picked up 3/19/21).
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Not possible with our software...once car net integration is done with infotainment screen and you choose fast DC chargers through the app it will precondition battery before you hit the destination.
And I suppose that v3.0 is required for that to happen, which probably wont arrive until the spring (at the earliest).

Had I gone on a much longer drive, I suppose that it would have warmed up even more. And using DCFC itself warms the battery a bit more.

Anyways, this illustrates why I think people should use EVnotify - it can tell you the actual pack temperatures.
 

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2021 Pro-S
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I’ve had my id4 since May. Going on 6 months now. Charging from 30 or 40% to 80% to 90% at home every night. At 90% I would start the day with about 235-240 miles. Now it only charges to 200 miles at 90%.

I get that the battery might loose power over time but only after 6 months? Where am I gonna be in another 6?

Anyone else encounter this yet? I wonder if this might fall under the battery warranty.
The battery is not degrading. In cool weather battery power is needed to warm the cabin and the battery pack that effectively reduces the range you will get.
 

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And I suppose that v3.0 is required for that to happen, which probably wont arrive until the spring (at the earliest).

Had I gone on a much longer drive, I suppose that it would have warmed up even more. And using DCFC itself warms the battery a bit more.

Anyways, this illustrates why I think people should use EVnotify - it can tell you the actual pack temperatures.
Using EVnotify or car scanner app are good way to learn how to take full advantage of charging battery on fast DC charging network when traveling....on my last 2800+ miles trip i was testing out car scanner app and it was on for entire duration of the trip and only every once in while checked against factory tools for values shown by car scanner vs factory tool.
Experienced EV driver will know which pids he wants on when driving...when stopped and charging.....one future thing i would love to see from car scanner is historical data charts for driving and when charging....
Car Scanner app developer deserves full support and it is worth every penny if you want to see many insights on ID4.
Also for developer....for non experienced ev owners....default screens with necessary pids when driving....when charging......and default screen for 12V battery information.
I hope @0vZ will consider my suggestions for future reference. Keep up great work.
I personally don't advocate for third party apps but this one is considered to be one of my favorites...im not associated with the developer or getting any benefits. I'm only stating facts and he should be recognized developer on this forum for MEB platform if you are interested in obd2 app.
 

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If car scanner would add real time charts, it would be almost as good as the Torque Pro app that I have been using for the past 5 years. Its good to see car scanner keep improving. All I or anyone else needs to make those simple default screens you mention using Torque, and the historical charts you mention is to get me my ID.4 and I will create it with just a few hours of work. The profile needed for Torque pro is a simple text file listing the PIDs you want to see (this is why I keep asking for PID list). Here is Torque pro and the charting app:
 

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It does give you real time charts via the custom dashboards?
Torque pro gives charts using the realtime charts plugin I linked above. It doesn't have a ready made profile for the ID.4 is the reason nobody is using it yet. Its a far better app than Car scanner and EVnotify, which is why I will spend the few hours to make the ID.4 profile as soon as I get my ID.4. Maybe Car scanner will advance enough in 2 months before I get my car and I won't have to do that. The Torque Pro profile is just a simple text file so once I or anybody else creates it we can give it to everyone else right here on the forum.
 

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Car Scanner does realtime charts on main screen or in live sensors. Histogram of each trip is a set of charts. No need for extra plugins.
 

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ID.4 Pro since June 2021
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....on my last 2800+ miles trip i was testing out car scanner app and it was on for entire duration of the trip and only every once in while checked against factory tools for values shown by car scanner vs factory tool.
So how did the numbers compare between Car Scanner Pro and the factory tool?

And have you established that it is ok to use Car Scanner while driving the car without causing message traffic overload on the data bus? In the past you warned me against using Car Scanner while driving, but I would like to use it if it isn't going to cause the car to throw error messages at me.
 

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So how did the numbers compare between Car Scanner Pro and the factory tool?

And have you established that it is ok to use Car Scanner while driving the car without causing message traffic overload on the data bus? In the past you warned me against using Car Scanner while driving, but I would like to use it if it isn't going to cause the car to throw error messages at me.
They are fixed in the last update...only issue you will face if you are using low quality obd2 dongle.
Car Scanner developer has done a lot of work for ID4 ... i had performed test for 2800 miles and it is working without the issues.
 

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They are fixed in the last update...only issue you will face if you are using low quality obd2 dongle.
Car Scanner developer has done a lot of work for ID4 ... i had performed test for 2800 miles and it is working without the issues.
Regarding ODIS vs car scanner i have not gotten time for all pids to look...but some are not working or showing wrong values.....but he is working hard to get it all working out.
Car Scanner and EVnotify after last couple updates are safe to use....only thing is to make sure you are using quality obd2 dongle...stay away from Chinese knockouts and counterfeit products.
 

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2021 ID4 Pro RWD White
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I’ve had my id4 since May. Going on 6 months now. Charging from 30 or 40% to 80% to 90% at home every night. At 90% I would start the day with about 235-240 miles. Now it only charges to 200 miles at 90%.

I get that the battery might loose power over time but only after 6 months? Where am I gonna be in another 6?

Anyone else encounter this yet? I wonder if this might fall under the battery warranty.
Muskegon MI, noticed in mid October changed from 240 gom range at 80% and 3.3/3.4 miles per kWh.
Now 180 gom range at 80% and 2.7 miles per kWh.
AC is always on, heat is always set to 72, playing more with heated seats, unheated garage, car is 7 months old, mixed highway and in town driving.
Did not realize that there would be such a big hit in range in the cold weather..
 
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