Cabin Filter Cover revised for some 2022 models

May I ask why you change the filter so early.
My first maintenance is only after 2 years and includes replacing this filter and brake oil.

Pascal said:

May I ask why you change the filter so early.
My first maintenance is only after 2 years and includes replacing this filter and brake oil.

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Why do some climb Mt. Everest? Because we can.

Really it's because some are more allergic and/or are in more air contaminated environments. So more frequent CAF replacements is of health/quality of automotive life value. Same for home air handler filters.

Brake hydraulic fluid (but yes, essentially an oil). Per VW spec's replaced at initial 3rd year and then every 2 years thereafter [as hygroscopic and master reservoir open to ambient humidity via vented cap].

Huey52 said:

Why do some climb Mt. Everest? Because we can.

Really it's because some are more allergic and/or are in more air contaminated environments. So more frequent CAF replacements is of health/quality of automotive life value. Same for home air handler filters.

Brake hydraulic fluid (but yes, essentially an oil). Per VW spec's replaced at initial 3rd year and then every 2 years thereafter [as hygroscopic and master reservoir open to ambient humidity via vented cap].

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I just follow the standardized instructions from VW EU maintenance.
What I also remember from the many vacations in the US is that there was always a kind of chemical smell in the cities that I had never smelled before.
So changing the filters might not be a bad idea.

Pascal said:

May I ask why you change the filter so early.

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Did not change the filter. Just curious what it looked like inside while it is still clean.

Plan to change filter at the 2 year mark as recommended.

Thanks for the info. and posting the pictures

Mrau said:

Unfortunately my right clip broke while trying to open the cover from the top using the method shown on a previously posted video.

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Reattach the broken clip using JB or Permatex cold weld epoxy.

7S POWER said:

NOPE! All hydraulic brakes, old and new, ICEV and BEV, don't have vented caps. If they do, you'll have mushy brake pedals, and the pedals will sink down to the floor.
If the cap is vented, it will absorb moisture as the brake pedal is applied and create negative pressure. Non-vented caps don't absorb moisture and create positive pressure.

RHD no vented cap

LHD no vented cap

LHD no vented cap

RHD TM3 no vented cap

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I was writing more generalized (I know, I shouldn't do that). Some/many vehicles do in fact have vented reservoir caps, with other systems vented elsewhere, but still 'early' in the system (such as the accumulator). The hydraulic system needs a vent because the fluid level in the reservoir must be free to fluctuate as braking action causes bidirectional interaction with the cylinder(s). And of course there's air already in the reservoir from initial fluid filling and top-up/refill over time of same. No air downstream, if properly bled, thanks to valve(s). However if too much water/debris/corrosion over time these valves can fail.
Again, it is this venting (regardless where design-achieved) that exposes the hydraulic fluid to ambient humidity and thereby hygroscopic absorption.
If it were an "air bound" system it wouldn't work any better than an air bound radiator, but then on the upside we wouldn't need to periodically change the fluid.

Where do you find your ID.4 build date? Is that listed anywhere in the window sticker? I got a 2022 and just curious.

Pascal said:

I just follow the standardized instructions from VW EU maintenance.
What I also remember from the many vacations in the US is that there was always a kind of chemical smell in the cities that I had never smelled before.
So changing the filters might not be a bad idea.

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It isn't the chemicals you smelled. It was probably the flatulence many Americans expel due to all the fast food we eat here.