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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a leak in one of my tires (not flat, just leaking a bit, dropped to 36 psi). With every prior car I've owned, I'd just take it to a tire shop for them to patch the leak. However, I've heard that with electric cars some tire shops may inadvertently damage the battery with their jack when taking a tire off. (My dad has a Tesla and recently when he had a leak, the first tire shop he went to said they don't work on Teslas for this reason). Is this a concern with the ID4? I've never thought twice about taking a car to a regular tire shop, but am wondering if potential damage to the battery is a concern. Have others just gotten tires patched/replaced at typical shops that handle ICE vehicles too?
 

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ID.4 Pro S AWD
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There are four acceptable lifting points on the ID.4. Here is a screen shot of a Euro document for the ID.4. It has to lifted from the points marked in green, not anywhere in orange. I carry a printout for my Model 3 jacking points in the glovebox. I will do the same when we get the ID.4 using this document. (The owners manual doesn't have such a diagram)

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I have the same concerns about jacks or lifts damaging the battery. For some reason I didn't worry about it much when I had the tires replaced (at 71K miles) by a tire shop on my Bolt. But when I got a low pressure warning for left rear tire on my Pro it was a different story. Fortunately, it seems to have been just a gremlin warning and the tire is okay. This is the link that JPWHITE shows a screenshot of above. It also discusses what should be done in certain accidents and has some towing information and so forth:
The center of the jacking point is about 4" from the edge of the battery case. I would think putting the car up on a lift instead of jacking at each corner would reduce the chance of battery case damage. Right, or not? Maybe that's the solution - ask the tire shop to use the lift. Or maybe, bite the bullet, and just have a VW dealer repair or replace the tire?
But the ID.4 is the first BEV that U.S. VW dealers have worked on, right? So maybe no sure thing there either.... The thing you have to worry about at tire shops is the "new guy". I know that from my own experience. I would suppose and hope that VW has engineered the battery case/supports to account for human error.
 

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I wouldn't be too concerned because the ID.4 jack points are practically an automotive standard location and type. You're already trusting these people to work on your vehicle and return to you a properly repaired and safe product (even if it's just tires). There's no guarantee you won't get an unsupervised newbie, an idiot, or that an accident won't happen, but I'd bet that would be somewhat as likely at a VW dealership.

The next step would be to carry that sheet to the service counter, stress the point, or even ask to oversee the lift, but that seems like overkill. There are enough EVs out there that any shop should be familiar with where not to lift and why.

I have to be concerned on my i3 because it has a funky jack point that requires an adapter in addition to the chassis being made of carbon fiber, and there have been reports of mechanics jamming bits of wood in there or other dumb things "that fit" and causing damage to the structure. I carry a set of jack pad adapters just in case. There are similar grooved adapters that fit the ID.4 if you really want to play it safe.

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
There are four acceptable lifting points on the ID.4. Here is a screen shot of a Euro document for the ID.4. It has to lifted from the points marked in green, not anywhere in orange. I carry a printout for my Model 3 jacking points in the glovebox. I will do the same when we get the ID.4 using this document. (The owners manual doesn't have such a diagram)

View attachment 5393
This is very helpful! I printed a copy of this in color and will take it with me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have the same concerns about jacks or lifts damaging the battery. For some reason I didn't worry about it much when I had the tires replaced (at 71K miles) by a tire shop on my Bolt. But when I got a low pressure warning for left rear tire on my Pro it was a different story. Fortunately, it seems to have been just a gremlin warning and the tire is okay. This is the link that JPWHITE shows a screenshot of above. It also discusses what should be done in certain accidents and has some towing information and so forth:
The center of the jacking point is about 4" from the edge of the battery case. I would think putting the car up on a lift instead of jacking at each corner would reduce the chance of battery case damage. Right, or not? Maybe that's the solution - ask the tire shop to use the lift. Or maybe, bite the bullet, and just have a VW dealer repair or replace the tire?
But the ID.4 is the first BEV that U.S. VW dealers have worked on, right? So maybe no sure thing there either.... The thing you have to worry about at tire shops is the "new guy". I know that from my own experience. I would suppose and hope that VW has engineered the battery case/supports to account for human error.
I may actually call the dealer and ask how much for a patch, just because the dealer is around the corner from me and it's just as close as any tire shop. My guess is the dealer would likely try to sell me a new tire, which I definitely do not need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I wouldn't be too concerned because the ID.4 jack points are practically an automotive standard location and type. You're already trusting these people to work on your vehicle and return to you a properly repaired and safe product (even if it's just tires). There's no guarantee you won't get an unsupervised newbie, an idiot, or that an accident won't happen, but I'd bet that would be somewhat as likely at a VW dealership.

The next step would be to carry that sheet to the service counter, stress the point, or even ask to oversee the lift, but that seems like overkill. There are enough EVs out there that any shop should be familiar with where not to lift and why.

I have to be concerned on my i3 because it has a funky jack point that requires an adapter in addition to the chassis being made of carbon fiber, and there have been reports of mechanics jamming bits of wood in there or other dumb things "that fit" and causing damage to the structure. I carry a set of jack pad adapters just in case. There are similar grooved adapters that fit the ID.4 if you really want to play it safe.

Interesting. So what exactly does this adapter do? Does go between the lift point and the lift itself?
 

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Interesting. So what exactly does this adapter do? Does go between the lift point and the lift itself?
Yes. So if they don't have the proper adapters, or say they want to use a rolling floor jack -- really, any method of lifting using a flat lifting surface -- one of the adapters gets used in between. But this style of jack point is so common that I can't imagine a shop not equipped to properly lift most VW.
 

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I wouldn't be too concerned because the ID.4 jack points are practically an automotive standard location and type. You're already trusting these people to work on your vehicle and return to you a properly repaired and safe product (even if it's just tires). There's no guarantee you won't get an unsupervised newbie, an idiot, or that an accident won't happen, but I'd bet that would be somewhat as likely at a VW dealership.

The next step would be to carry that sheet to the service counter, stress the point, or even ask to oversee the lift, but that seems like overkill. There are enough EVs out there that any shop should be familiar with where not to lift and why.

I have to be concerned on my i3 because it has a funky jack point that requires an adapter in addition to the chassis being made of carbon fiber, and there have been reports of mechanics jamming bits of wood in there or other dumb things "that fit" and causing damage to the structure. I carry a set of jack pad adapters just in case. There are similar grooved adapters that fit the ID.4 if you really want to play it safe.

Thanks! So when they use hydraulic jacks then only 2 pad adapters would be required as they'd likely jack just 1, or at most, 2 corners at a time? Or, are 4 pads needed for when the car is hoisted on a lift? I just came from a Bolt so I probably overreact to anything that could result in a battery fire....
 

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Thanks! So when they use hydraulic jacks then only 2 pad adapters would be required as they'd likely jack just 1, or at most, 2 corners at a time? Or, are 4 pads needed for when the car is hoisted on a lift? I just came from a Bolt so I probably overreact to anything that could result in a battery fire....
If your car needs jack pads get a set of four.
Discount Tire jack up both sides of the car at the same time with floor jacks and replace the tires as quickly as thet would do normally.
 
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I think all 8 of the new cars/SUVs I've bought since 2000 have had about the same style pinch weld jacking points. I don't remember tire shops using any kind of adapter when they raise vehicle on a lift -- steel arms are rotated to go underneath each of the jacking points. Not sure if I've seen adapters on floor jacks. They do it really fast and maybe aren't always careful to get the arm exactly at the designated place. Probably most cars are designed strong enough that it doesn't make any difference. I'm guessing it would be pretty hard to damage a BEV battery when using a lift, whereas floor jacks could cause damage in the wrong hands. It's all about production - even if certain cars should have specific adapters tire shops aren't going to be bothered dealing with it, except for models where damage incidents are known to them. Also, they'll use a torque wrench, but good luck getting lug nuts set to manufacturer's specs.
 

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Some vehicles ('Vette, Porsche) require a pin-insert adapter. My wife's Benz GLA a block-insert adapter. But most others I've had, including the ID.4, are just a "slotted hockey puck" type adapter to protect the pinch weld.
Note that a very few vehicles, Mustang iirc, may be jacked directly on the pinch weld without incident as designed/reinforced for same.
But I agree, many shops don't bother with any adapters, and they often floor lift raise at inboard hard points rather than pinch welds anyway, so the OP's concern is warranted.
btw: They/you can get away with jacking directly on the pinch weld on an occasional/emergency basis, but over time the pinch weld can break down (deform/delaminate) if no adapter is used.

btw: I have the very safe (but commensurately very pricey) JackPoint jack stands and as may be seen many adapters available, however I just went with their standard platters and then added adapters by others: https://shop.jackpointjackstands.com/main.sc
They were featured on Leno's Garage and just made a lot of engineering sense to me as you lift and stand at the same point with no awkward transition.
Made in USA and invented by a Law Professor (so litigation risk aversion designed-in ;)).
I think all 8 of the new cars/SUVs I've bought since 2000 have had about the same style pinch weld jacking points. I don't remember tire shops using any kind of adapter when they raise vehicle on a lift -- steel arms are rotated to go underneath each of the jacking points. Not sure if I've seen adapters on floor jacks. They do it really fast and maybe aren't always careful to get the arm exactly at the designated place. Probably most cars are designed strong enough that it doesn't make any difference. I'm guessing it would be pretty hard to damage a BEV battery when using a lift, whereas floor jacks could cause damage in the wrong hands. It's all about production - even if certain cars should have specific adapters tire shops aren't going to be bothered dealing with it, except for models where damage incidents are known to them. Also, they'll use a torque wrench, but good luck getting lug nuts set to manufacturer's specs.
 

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ID4:1E - Blue Dusk Metallic
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Got a pinch weld adapter made with aircraft grade aluminum, pad on the pinch has a teflon pad & a pair of magnets inserted to pre-attach to the car. Carry it in the car with the tool kit & mini air compressor.
 
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