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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello! I ordered a bike rack for the trailer hitch and the rack looks like it works with a Class 2. I see there are 1 1/4" to 2" adapters. Is there any reason I wouldn't be able to use an adapter to solve this problem? Thank you in advance.
 

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You can use an adapter. They will have more play than a true fit connection so you might hear more noise from it. They'll also extend the rack an extra 4-6" so be mindful of that and if that concerns you.
 

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ID.4 1st Glacier White w/Lunar Gray - order 9/23
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Two other considerations have been mentioned in other threads on ID.4s and trailer hitches on this forum:

1) The thickness of the receiver walls and the length of your hitch pin (the wall thickness on the ID.4 is greater than most 1 1/4 receivers). Make sure your hitch pin is long enough.

2) The distance from the ID.4 receiver to clear the rear bumper may be longer than expected - VW recommends NOT going longer than 7", but I found with this: Curt Class II Euro Style Drawbar with 2" Ball - 2-5/8" Rise - 3,500 lbs Curt Trailer Hitch Ball Mount C45572 (etrailer.com) that the length: 7-1/4" from center of hitch pin hole to center of ball is just barely long enough to easily hitch up our utility trailer with a 2" ball.

I know that this is a different application than what you are looking for, however, the dimensions will still be something for you to verify before expecting everything to fit and work as you'd like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hello! I ordered a bike rack for the trailer hitch and the rack looks like it works with a Class 2. I see there are 1 1/4" to 2" adapters. Is there any reason I wouldn't be able to use an adapter to solve this problem? Thank you in advance.
Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Two other considerations have been mentioned in other threads on ID.4s and trailer hitches on this forum:

1) The thickness of the receiver walls and the length of your hitch pin (the wall thickness on the ID.4 is greater than most 1 1/4 receivers). Make sure your hitch pin is long enough.

2) The distance from the ID.4 receiver to clear the rear bumper may be longer than expected - VW recommends NOT going longer than 7", but I found with this: Curt Class II Euro Style Drawbar with 2" Ball - 2-5/8" Rise - 3,500 lbs Curt Trailer Hitch Ball Mount C45572 (etrailer.com) that the length: 7-1/4" from center of hitch pin hole to center of ball is just barely long enough to easily hitch up our utility trailer with a 2" ball.

I know that this is a different application than what you are looking for, however, the dimensions will still be something for you to verify before expecting everything to fit and work as you'd like.
Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hello! I ordered a bike rack for the trailer hitch and the rack looks like it works with a Class 2. I see there are 1 1/4" to 2" adapters. Is there any reason I wouldn't be able to use an adapter to solve this problem? Thank you in advance.
Hello! I’m trying to install my hitch adapter but the plastic bumper on the left is preventing the adapter from going all the way in and being flush on the right. Therefore the pin hole (in the middle) is not aligning for me to insert the pin. Am I supposed to drill anther hole in the left indentation to make it work?
2954
 

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Hello! I’m trying to install my hitch adapter but the plastic bumper on the left is preventing the adapter from going all the way in and being flush on the right. Therefore the pin hole (in the middle) is not aligning for me to insert the pin. Am I supposed to drill anther hole in the left indentation to make it work? View attachment 2954
No, don't drill anything. The reason things aren't lining up is because you're using a Class II adapter in a Class I receiver.
 

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I think what you are trying to explain is the adaptor is too long?
 

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No, don't drill anything. The reason things aren't lining up is because you're using a Class II adapter in a Class I receiver.
Are you sure about this being a Class 1 receiver? If so, then VW mislabeled the part. Class 1 maxes out at 2,000 lbs, but that is less than the 2,200 lb (FE) or 2,700 lb (AWD) trailer tow rating of the car.

2957
 

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I'm not certain, but Class II has a longer shank and is designed that way on purpose so that you can't put it into a Class I receiver. A 1 7/8" ball maxes out at 2,000lb, which is Class I max.

I would have to look into converting between metric and imperial to determine if that is causing the discrepancy. It wouldn't be the first time VW mislabeled it's vehicle's tow capacity. Often they don't even state a US capacity and just say it's not supported.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Issue solved. Thank you for all the input. The adapter 1 1/4” to 2” from Harbor Freight was slightly too tall so the holes were not aligning. I took it back and got a slightly shorter one from AutoZone. It wasn’t perfect but with some pressure I was able to push it in and align the holes. I also learned the adapter required a 1/2” pin (instead of 5/8”) and that was just long enough. I’m in inbusiness with my bike rack.
 

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Issue solved. Thank you for all the input. The adapter 1 1/4” to 2” from Harbor Freight was slightly too tall so the holes were not aligning. I took it back and got a slightly shorter one from AutoZone. It wasn’t perfect but with some pressure I was able to push it in and align the holes. I also learned the adapter required a 1/2” pin (instead of 5/8”) and that was just long enough. I’m in inbusiness with my bike rack.
Can you provide a picture or link to what you bought at AutoZone?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

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Issue solved. Thank you for all the input. The adapter 1 1/4” to 2” from Harbor Freight was slightly too tall so the holes were not aligning. I took it back and got a slightly shorter one from AutoZone. It wasn’t perfect but with some pressure I was able to push it in and align the holes. I also learned the adapter required a 1/2” pin (instead of 5/8”) and that was just long enough. I’m in inbusiness with my bike rack.
Is 1-1/4 in. to 2 in. Hitch Adapter the one not to buy?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks! How is your bike rack? Want to link that too? Lol

I am definitely in the market.
I bought a MaxxHaul 4 bike rack bc I thought the $80 model on amazon would save me money. But If you have a first edition like me with the class one tow hitch, you may as well find a class one bike hitch which is the one and a half inch receiver. That way you’ll avoid all the hassle I went through to convert to the class 1.
 

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I bought a MaxxHaul 4 bike rack bc I thought the $80 model on amazon would save me money. But If you have a first edition like me with the class one tow hitch, you may as well find a class one bike hitch which is the one and a half inch receiver. That way you’ll avoid all the hassle I went through to convert to the class 1.
Mazzhaul makes a 1.25 inch receiver hitch that holds two bikes. Sells for $49.64 on Amazon and gets 4.5 stars on the reviews. Anyone try that one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Mazzhaul makes a 1.25 inch receiver hitch that holds two bikes. Sells for $49.64 on Amazon and gets 4.5 stars on the reviews. Anyone try that one?
No but I wish I had tried that one. It looks a lot lighter than the one I got. See what the return policy is and give it a shot.
 

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According to all documentation that I have seen, the receiver is a 1-1/4" class II.
 

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According to all documentation that I have seen, the receiver is a 1-1/4" class II.
1.25" receivers can be either Class I or Class II. The differences are in the weight restrictions (200/2000 for Class I; 350/3500 for Class II) and that Class I receivers have a tab inside to prevent Class II accessories from fitting correctly. Then the ball and ball shank will also have a weight rating. Pretty sure 1.25" receivers are simply legacy and we should just do away with them.

If you find a ball-mount shank that is too long to fit into a 1.25" receiver you are trying to fit a Class II ball-mount into a Class I hitch. Drilling new holes in the receiver or cutting the ball-mount shank are not safe or correct remedies to that situation. In this scenario, it sounds like the problem was the bumper surround rather than the shank. Regardless of whether the FE has a Class I or II hitch, drilling the receiver tube still isn't the answer to that problem--buying a correctly fitting accessory was. If that wasn't possible the next best solution would have been to shave the bumper surround.

Altering the receiver tube or ball-mount shank changes the load rating. Even without alteration, the adapter has reduced the effective load rating by 50%. If I'm not mistaken, the load rating for that receiver is now 100/1100.
 
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