I was surprised to charge my car today at an Electrify America station and at 90% it only has a range of 160. Does this seem correct? I called the dealership and they said it could be from my driving habits, use of interior features, etc. They are going to check the battery but curious if others have this issue. We bought it two weeks ago.
EA ID4 Range Issue
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The "Guess-o-meter" distance shown on the display is just that - a guess based on how the car has been driven up to that point. You say you've had the car two weeks:
- What percentage was a charged to when you got it?
- How far have you driven it so far? What kind of driving -- urban, suburban, highway & your speed, etc?
- Have you charged it prior to your EA charge today? How did that go?
- When you look at the car's data screen, what value is it showing for miles per KWH? (Both short term and long term.)
Lots of other questions depending on your answers to the above.
- What percentage was a charged to when you got it?
- How far have you driven it so far? What kind of driving -- urban, suburban, highway & your speed, etc?
- Have you charged it prior to your EA charge today? How did that go?
- When you look at the car's data screen, what value is it showing for miles per KWH? (Both short term and long term.)
Lots of other questions depending on your answers to the above.
It was fully charged when I got it. Then, I charged it a week ago to 80% at Electrify America and it was 250 miles approx for range. So this charge dropped to 160. I drove a mix of urban and freeway/highway. Probably 70% above 50mph. Thanks for the tip about checking miles per KWH, I will check that out.
I came off highway driving at about 50% battery and charged at EA. The GOM at first told me I had 258 miles at 80% charge. After driving around town for a couple days, it had gone up 264 miles.
Like others have commented, it's all in your driving history. The mileage continually adjusts according to how you drive.
Like others have commented, it's all in your driving history. The mileage continually adjusts according to how you drive.
No, this isn't like an engine break-in period, this is just a simple mathematical construct that plays by defined rules that we are left guessing about. Definitely not weeks/month/2,000 miles, we're probably looking at something in the 20 to 50 miles range of recent driving history.
The OM says "...calculated/updated according to driving style and environment..." and while we know it's not real-time, it's definitely based on recent activity, not how somebody drove last week.
That sounds about right. My son drove last weekend in a VERY spirited way, and charged back to 80% I had 196 miles displayed the following morning. After a few errands totaling 40+ miles I was back to my usual 220 miles at 80% state of charge.
Well, my GOM didn't settle down until a couple of thousand miles...so OM be damned!
I showed the ridiculous ~400 miles range (I don't recall the exact figure) at pickup, probably a byproduct of only being driven in transport mode on and off the ship and around the lot.
By the end of my 50 mile drive home, the GOM was showing a normal 180-something miles remaining, and it's reliably remained between 190 to 210 at 80% ever since.
By the end of my 50 mile drive home, the GOM was showing a normal 180-something miles remaining, and it's reliably remained between 190 to 210 at 80% ever since.
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You have a 77 kilowatt hour (kWh) battery in the car. If you go to the Vehicle screen you can see how many miles you are getting per kWh. I average anywhere from 2.5 to 3.5 miles per kWh.
I get the 2.5 miles per kWH performance when I am driving at 75 mph on hilly terrain withe AC on. I get the 3.5 miles per kWh when I am driving under 55mph on flatter terrain and with the climate system shut off.
If you run the numbers, 2.5 miles/kWh will yield a 200 mile range with a fully charged battery or 160 miles at 80%.
At 3.5 miles/kWh, you will have a range of 270 miles at 100%, or 216 miles at 80%.
When I drive (with the adaptive cruise control) at 65 mph, I average about 3.2 miles/kWh, which works out to 250 miles on a full (100%) charge or 200 miles range on an 80% charge.
My ID.4 passed the 2,000 mile mark yesterday. I charged at EA to 80% and then drove home. The first part of the trip was in an interstate driving 72-75 for approx 20 miles and the balance of the trip was on a rural 2 lane road for approx 25 miles. This last 25 miles was following what was no doubt the slowest driver in the state of Alabama and I had no chance to pass. When I got home I had 65% charge remaining and the GOM showed 200 mile range. I forgot to look at the miles/kwh, but it is usually 3.3 to 3.5 for my mixed driving.
One of my old ICE cars had something similar to the GOM, but that thing had horrible fuel economy when driving around town. So when I would get on the highway, I would watch the GOM actually go up for about an hour - then it would plateau and finally start to decrease in the expected way.
There is a very important but very subtle difference between the ICE cars we have grown up with versus EVs. There's a great YouTube to explain it:
Watch the whole thing a couple of times, but what you really need to focus on is the stuff at the 8 to 9 minute mark explaining the energy loss per mile between ICE cars and EVs.
In a nutshell, here is the issue: The energy in gasoline is about 33.7 kWh per gallon, so if you have a 20 gallon gas tank you are taking on 674 kWh of energy! HOWEVER, a gasoline car is only about 35% efficient in converting that energy into motion and the other 65% is wasted mostly as heat. Compare that to EVs which are about 85% efficient in converting battery energy into motion.
The next big point in this nutshell explanation is that wasted heat energy of an ICE is pretty much constant no matter what kind of driving you are doing. 2 bit da Vince doesn't say it in so many words, but in his mathematical model he uses in the video, he assumes it is fixed. Strictly speaking, it wouldn't be fixed, but I think in reality it is close enough to the truth that you can treat it as so and his model is very good for explaining the differences between ICEs and EVs.
So once you understand that, you can understand why all the things that affect a car's efficiency, whether the car is an ICE or EV, are muted in ICE cars and make huge differences in EVs in comparison. About 65% of the energy in a gas tank is wasted essentially independent of how you drive, so all of the efficiency factors such as
EVs do a great job of putting almost all of the onboard energy into useful work, propelling the car. That's great for us and for the planet, but it means that we have to re-learn the impact of all the factors that affect efficiency. Growing up driving ICE cars dulled us to all those efficiency factors, but now we are feeling essentially the full wrath of each of those factors. The price of progress.
Watch the whole thing a couple of times, but what you really need to focus on is the stuff at the 8 to 9 minute mark explaining the energy loss per mile between ICE cars and EVs.
In a nutshell, here is the issue: The energy in gasoline is about 33.7 kWh per gallon, so if you have a 20 gallon gas tank you are taking on 674 kWh of energy! HOWEVER, a gasoline car is only about 35% efficient in converting that energy into motion and the other 65% is wasted mostly as heat. Compare that to EVs which are about 85% efficient in converting battery energy into motion.
The next big point in this nutshell explanation is that wasted heat energy of an ICE is pretty much constant no matter what kind of driving you are doing. 2 bit da Vince doesn't say it in so many words, but in his mathematical model he uses in the video, he assumes it is fixed. Strictly speaking, it wouldn't be fixed, but I think in reality it is close enough to the truth that you can treat it as so and his model is very good for explaining the differences between ICEs and EVs.
So once you understand that, you can understand why all the things that affect a car's efficiency, whether the car is an ICE or EV, are muted in ICE cars and make huge differences in EVs in comparison. About 65% of the energy in a gas tank is wasted essentially independent of how you drive, so all of the efficiency factors such as
- car aerodynamics
- driving in headwinds or crosswinds
- gaining elevation
- driving on rough chip-seal roads
- driving in sand
- driving in the low air density of Colorado
- driving in rain
- carrying bikes or luggage carriers on the roof
- driving with max # of passengers and cargo weight
- cranking the AC on hot days
- keeping the car warm on cold days (something ICE cars get to do for free from waste heat)
- towing
- etc. etc. etc
EVs do a great job of putting almost all of the onboard energy into useful work, propelling the car. That's great for us and for the planet, but it means that we have to re-learn the impact of all the factors that affect efficiency. Growing up driving ICE cars dulled us to all those efficiency factors, but now we are feeling essentially the full wrath of each of those factors. The price of progress.
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I think they should just start with taking your lifetime average for consumption and multiply that with available battery and display that as a GOM and then adjust that depending on how you are driving for that session. Your lifetime average is the best indicator of your consumption since it averages out a lot of factors over a lot of miles and will only get better as the car drives more.
That's a great jumping off for the opposite scenario. With my EV I cut across town to get to work, as battery consumed is almost entirely based on miles driven, followed by travel speed and overhead such as HVAC, lights, systems.
Driving my ICE, it's no less efficient to circle around town on the freeway. It's 0% efficient idling at a traffic light, and takes a big efficiency hit moving in slow 25 MPH traffic around the lake.
Total travel time is similar for both routes, but for all practical purposes, the ICE efficiency is time-based while the EV is mileage based (assuming driving the legal speed).
Exactly. I've already changed my habits from seeking out the highways and interstate loops around downtown like I did in my ICE driving to seeking out the more direct, lower speed routes. You get the double bonus of consuming less battery energy (shorter distance) but also consuming it more efficiently (lower speed roads).
And that's a spot on point about the ICE car waste while idling. At each stop light the ICE car keeps burning through the kWh's in its gas tank while the the little an EV consumes at rest is mostly about maintaining cabin and/or battery temperature as needed on hot or cold days. To be fair, both the ICE and the EV are 100% inefficient at rest by definition (they aren't doing any transporting); however, the ICE burns way more kWh idling than the EV does. Whatever energy the EV burns at rest is doing something useful rather than generating waves of heat as the ICE does.
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My id 4 dashboard displays shows battery range of over 380 miles, I have only driven about 20 miles so far, and it up a few miles???
I hope that it will correct to an accurate remaining range.
As Spin noted, range estimates do improve with time. However, remember that it is based on your recent activity. If you change the nature of the car's use -- say you had been doing city driving and now take a highway trip, or there is a big change in weather, etc. -- then you'll still find the estimate off. But it will still slowly correct itself as you drive in the new conditions.
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Just wondering if the battery return to full charge by its own accord- im having the same issue
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