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· Registered User
"Einstein" 2021 ID.4 AWD Pro S, Scale Silver
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308 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I guess I wasn't able to dodge the gremlin gods forever. Sigh. Car lit-up like a Christmas tree and the 12V died soon thereafter. Thankfully this happened in my driveway but the worst part is I couldn't disengage the e-brake so had to dolly tow it 7 miles to the dealer. Tried disconnecting/reconnecting the 12V as well as providing external 12V to the battery posts. No dice. Just heard from the service tech that they can't even wake the car up. Seems like it's bricked. They have a call into the factory tech. Of course this car was running venerable 2.1 with the old 12V battery. Updates to follow...

 

· Registered User
"Einstein" 2021 ID.4 AWD Pro S, Scale Silver
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308 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sorry to hear. wouldn't it be worth popping on portable jump pack or battery tender to at least try to energize 12V system enough to wake up and put in neutral?
Tried that - didn't help. Even tried disconnecting the 12V entirely and reconnecting to reboot the computers. By the time the tech looked at it the next day the car was bricked and he couldn't even wake it up by connecting the 12V to an external source. Einstein is one sick puppy at the moment. If the car isn't even waking up with external 12V provided then a fuse is blown or ICAS is probably smoked or something...
 

· Registered User
"Einstein" 2021 ID.4 AWD Pro S, Scale Silver
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308 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Has anyone found the part number for the new 12V battery and proactively replaced it without dealer help? Or is there something so special about that battery that only a dealer can do it? Will the replacement behave correctly with the v2.1 software?
I suggested to the dealer tech that maybe they could install the new 12V or at the very least swap it out for a fully-energized old 12V. Haven't heard anything yet. My suspicion, however, is that the car's charger needs an update to support the new 12V (or at the very least new config data so it knows what kind-of battery it's charging).
 

· Registered User
"Einstein" 2021 ID.4 AWD Pro S, Scale Silver
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308 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The same thing happened to me, the car is been in service for over 6 weeks now, started the buyback process. I hope you are lucky and get a faster fix.
Oh man that sucks. Are you getting a 2023 Chattanooga build as a replacement or are you done altogether?
 

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"Einstein" 2021 ID.4 AWD Pro S, Scale Silver
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308 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Pl
Wow, keep us posted. They gave you a loaner?

You don't happen to know your 12V state of health / voltage in the weeks beforehand from CarScanner or OBDeleven do you?
I don't have a loaner yet - they need to determine the scope of the problem (and likely repair time) at which point they'll probably put me into a rental if it will be a long wait. I'm 7 miles from the dealer and they arranged a Lyft ride home in the interim (I work from home and have another car so it's fine for the moment). The service agent was telling me VWoA cut way back on loaners - not sure why.

I wasn't able to get the SOH of the 12V but it appeared to me the car wasn't charging the battery - makes sense if the HV system was disengaged (also explains why I couldn't release the e-brake). I do know it was around 11.7 volts when I connected my battery charger to the designated posts. I trickle-charged it for about an hour which got the voltage up to about 12.5V but once I removed the charger it was quickly drained again.
 

· Registered User
"Einstein" 2021 ID.4 AWD Pro S, Scale Silver
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308 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Update:

Factory engineer asked dealer tech to replace battery but that had no effect (car still dead). Current action item is to pin-out some cable harnesses. In the meantime I'm waiting to hear from the dealer about getting a rental/loaner (they're apparently consulting dealer management).
 

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"Einstein" 2021 ID.4 AWD Pro S, Scale Silver
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308 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Update:

There's a mostly happy-ending to this story - TLDR is I have my car back and everything is working normally. The good news for all of us is that this was user error due to a fuse I re-inserted into the wrong (empty) socket when I was debugging why my USB-C ports were not supplying power (also fixed). I forgot I had checked SC20 (telephone) to see if it was blown (it wasn't). However - I also went on to check SC48 which is labeled as "USB Charging Socket 1" on the fuse location schematic. This fuse was also not blown. However, I re-inserted it into the wrong empty socket on the fuse panel; there are several empty sockets on either side of this fuse location. Apparently the fuse panels are shelf-stock inventory which were re-purposed for the MEB vehicles and aren't ideal as there are MANY empty fuse sockets on the panels. Once the correct socket was populated with the fuse the system rebooted OK. The tech then cleared all the codes and ran some qualification tests on the car.

Learnings:
  • Don't remove a fuse just to determine if it's blown. Instead you can simply shine a bright light on the fuse panel and look through the translucent tops of the fuses to see if they are blown without removing the fuse itself. This is especially important on MEB cars as removing the wrong fuse can brick/reset the ECUs which will require a dealer visit. Especially don't EVER remove the fireman fuses (marked with a flag sticker). If you are unlucky it will blow the pyro fuse in the HV battery pack and to replace that fuse is non-trivial (read $$$$).
  • SC48 doesn't appear to have anything to do with the USB-C ports (despite its confusing labeling). What it does control, however, is the power to the engine control ECU which is why I couldn't disengage the e-brake or get it into gear. It also controls power to the HV to 12V DC-DC converter which is why my 12V died.
At least my USB-C ports are working now...
 

· Registered User
"Einstein" 2021 ID.4 AWD Pro S, Scale Silver
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308 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Update:

There's a mostly happy-ending to this story - TLDR is I have my car back and everything is working normally. The good news for all of us is that this was user error due to a fuse I re-inserted into the wrong (empty) socket when I was debugging why my USB-C ports were not supplying power (also fixed). I forgot I had checked SC20 (telephone) to see if it was blown (it wasn't). However - I also went on to check SC48 which is labeled as "USB Charging Socket 1" on the fuse location schematic. This fuse was also not blown. However, I re-inserted it into the wrong empty socket on the fuse panel; there are several empty sockets on either side of this fuse location. Apparently the fuse panels are shelf-stock inventory which were re-purposed for the MEB vehicles and aren't ideal as there are MANY empty fuse sockets on the panels. Once the correct socket was populated with the fuse the system rebooted OK. The tech then cleared all the codes and ran some qualification tests on the car.

Learnings:
  • Don't remove a fuse just to determine if it's blown. Instead you can simply shine a bright light on the fuse panel and look through the translucent tops of the fuses to see if they are blown without removing the fuse itself. This is especially important on MEB cars as removing the wrong fuse can brick/reset the ECUs which will require a dealer visit. Especially don't EVER remove the fireman fuses (marked with a flag sticker). If you are unlucky it will blow the pyro fuse in the HV battery pack and to replace that fuse is non-trivial (read $$$$).
  • SC48 doesn't appear to have anything to do with the USB-C ports (despite its confusing labeling). What it does control, however, is the power to the engine control ECU which is why I couldn't disengage the e-brake or get it into gear. It also controls power to the HV to 12V DC-DC converter which is why my 12V died.
At least my USB-C ports are working now...
 

· Registered User
"Einstein" 2021 ID.4 AWD Pro S, Scale Silver
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308 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Good to hear the happy ending to the story. But a true cautionary tale!

By the way, I admire you for following up with the resolution, even though it might appear to be a bit embarrassing to you personally.

A couple other additional lessons I learned by following your story are:

  • If my USB port (or anything other part of the car) isn't working right, and my car is under warranty, I should just take it into the dealer to get it fixed for free rather than messing around with the fusebox or anything else that could affect the electronics. These cars are mostly electronics and aren't cars that are amenable to home troubleshooting and fixing, despite all the "anyone else having this issue?" posts on this forum made by people desperately searching for at-home solutions.
  • I should be very wary about immediately assuming that if something goes wrong with the car, it must be the car's fault rather than something I might have done.
My avatar picture is appropriate. I tend to leap before I look!

Watch Hand Human Musician Eyewear
 
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