I just purchased a Mustart 26amp portable for $309. While I might take it with me on very rare occasions, for the most part it will reside in my garage as a fixed EVSE. I think using a portable EVSE in this manner is fine provided it's not exposed to weather and the plug normally remains in the socket. I would not be comfortable planning to use this unit if it needed to be plugged and unplugged on a regular basis.
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EVSE Expense, Smart/Dumb/Portable
I'm curios about the NEED to purchase an EVSE box that costs considerably more than a regular Mustart 30 or 50 amp EVSE or equivalent. Why spend $600 or even $1000 for an EVSE when one can achieve the same output in a portable EVSE of equivalent amperage costing $300 ish.
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I too am wondering the best way to go here.
It primarily depends on whether you want a smart EV or a dumb one. The smart ones cost a lot more, but come with fancy apps for your phone to control the charger. The dumb ones simply send the voltage to your car and follow whatever settings you made in the car's software.
Another factor is whether the device is "portable" (like the Mustart) or a wall mounted box. While the latter is less portable, I suspect they are a bit more durable over the long run.
Finally, you also get into whether the unit was made in the US/Canada or is an import.
Plenty of reviews online if you want to take those into consideration.
Another factor is whether the device is "portable" (like the Mustart) or a wall mounted box. While the latter is less portable, I suspect they are a bit more durable over the long run.
Finally, you also get into whether the unit was made in the US/Canada or is an import.
Plenty of reviews online if you want to take those into consideration.
I can only make assumptions.
The compact $300 16A Duosida that I carry in the frunk of is my i3 and use daily broke after about a year is year. I sent it back to Brad at BSA who handled the warranty exchange, commented that the failure was unusual, and probably repairable had it been out of warranty.
The 40A Clipper Creek I just installed (purchased used from eBay, but normally $650) has much more space in the box, is built and services locally, and see them installed outside all over the place in shared use environments.
So my expectation is the larger boxes are better built (larger contractor, not as reliant on miniaturization), run cooler, are more easily serviceable. Whether my expectation matches reality remains to be seen.
Begin throwing WiFi, Bluetooth, LCD touchscreen displays, and software code... ugh, I don't know!? Does that make it higher value but less reliable?
The compact $300 16A Duosida that I carry in the frunk of is my i3 and use daily broke after about a year is year. I sent it back to Brad at BSA who handled the warranty exchange, commented that the failure was unusual, and probably repairable had it been out of warranty.
The 40A Clipper Creek I just installed (purchased used from eBay, but normally $650) has much more space in the box, is built and services locally, and see them installed outside all over the place in shared use environments.
So my expectation is the larger boxes are better built (larger contractor, not as reliant on miniaturization), run cooler, are more easily serviceable. Whether my expectation matches reality remains to be seen.
Begin throwing WiFi, Bluetooth, LCD touchscreen displays, and software code... ugh, I don't know!? Does that make it higher value but less reliable?
I also bought a 40 amp Clippercreek. Mainly because it is: built like a tank, certified for outdoor installation in heavy weather areas(Katrina Zone here), is not smart so less to break down, and I previously tried one in our mall multistory parking lot in fact I am hook up to the free juice at the mall right now and drinking cafe au lait in the food court.
You must also consider the amperage of your source. For example, if you're plugging into a dryer outlet in your garage, most of those household circuits are only 30 amps. This means you only need a 24 amp EVSE, which will charge your EV at about 23mph. A "dumb" portable unit will run you less than $300 on Amazon. On the other hand, if you specifically wired your garage for let's say 50 amps, then a 40 amp charger (either smart or dumb) will run you a bit more. What I'm saying is that the price is dependent on the features of the EVSE and the total amperage it can handle.I'm curios about the NEED to purchase an EVSE box that costs considerably more than a regular Mustart 30 or 50 amp EVSE or equivalent. Why spend $600 or even $1000 for an EVSE when one can achieve the same output in a portable EVSE of equivalent amperage costing $300 ish.
My issue with that (higher vs. lower amperage, price) is that inside the box, the only component that needs to change is the contractors. I'm pretty sure every other part inside the box can be the same.
Is course, a lot of expense is in the cable, and a heavier gauge is required for higher amperage. However, it's worth noting the 25 foot cable on the 40 amp HCS-50 has only 10ga primaries, not 6ga like what's required in the walls. So we're not talking a great deal of added expense.
Is course, a lot of expense is in the cable, and a heavier gauge is required for higher amperage. However, it's worth noting the 25 foot cable on the 40 amp HCS-50 has only 10ga primaries, not 6ga like what's required in the walls. So we're not talking a great deal of added expense.
I purchased a Grizzl-E Level 2 EV Charger, 16/24/32/40 Amp, NEMA 6-50/14-50 Plug for about $315 from Amazon. It is mounted permanently in my garage, but one can pull out a pin, unplug it and it becomes portable. It would be classified as a "dumb" charger, but I have no need for any of the bells and whistles of the smart chargers. I set the charge level in the car and let the charger do its thing. I can monitor the charge on Car-Net.
I have a JuiceBox 40. My utility (PSEG) offers a 5 cent per KW rebate when charging if I have a wifi charger so they can see when I'm charging. They also offered a $500 rebate so I got the charger for under $200. A smart EVSE might be a good idea if your utility plans to do something similar.
I am on a rural co-op electric company and they generally suck! They off no incentives for anything. Mostly what they do is try to come up with someway to removes funds from your pocketbook without actually raising your per kilowatt hour rate. Like one month my bill for power was about $100, BUT with all the fees they added my total bill was about $160! They do not offer reduced rates after a certain time in the evening. They make it difficult to use solar. Unfortunately, this part of the country is not into ecology or energy savings. We have an atomic energy plant about 7 miles from my home, but the energy we use comes from a coal fired plant about 90 miles away. As a matter of fact, the rail line moving coal to that plant is about three blocks from my home. The power from the atomic energy plant goes to other states.I have a JuiceBox 40. My utility (PSEG) offers a 5 cent per KW rebate when charging if I have a wifi charger so they can see when I'm charging. They also offered a $500 rebate so I got the charger for under $200. A smart EVSE might be a good idea if your utility plans to do something similar.
Good point on the portable, might be smart to buy and adjustable 32A and run it at 24A or 16A. Really hate these EVSE, should really have been incorporated in the EV and we just use an extension cord with locking NEMA connector.
FWIW all electrical generation feeds into the same grid like a giant lake fed by numerous creeks, it's just a matter of who pays which producer for the amount they siphon off, so to speak. Even though you may technically be paying for coal, you're getting whatever gets to you through the path of least resistance. That sounds like Free Atomic Energy! to me. 😎
I'm surprised no one has brought up the UL listed aspect in this thread yet, most of the cheaper EVSEs you find are not UL listed (nor do they carry any other certification of any kind).
I know there have been a lot of recommendations of the Mustart EVSEs in here, and they are supposed to be TUV certified, but I just recently read an article that claimed the Mustart products have a fake TUV stamp on them and don't actually meet the requirements of certification...so I'm suspicious of Mustart now :/
I know there have been a lot of recommendations of the Mustart EVSEs in here, and they are supposed to be TUV certified, but I just recently read an article that claimed the Mustart products have a fake TUV stamp on them and don't actually meet the requirements of certification...so I'm suspicious of Mustart now :/
On paper there is a grid. But in reality none of the power in this area comes from the grid the local atomic energy plant is on. Using your analogy, there are several large lakes being fed by numerous rivers and creeks!FWIW all electrical generation feeds into the same grid like a giant lake fed by numerous creeks, it's just a matter of who pays which producer for the amount they siphon off, so to speak. Even though you may technically be paying for coal, you're getting whatever gets to you through the path of least resistance. That sounds like Free Atomic Energy! to me. 😎
This one seems very high quality, they make Quasar V2G for CHAdeMO, will have CCS soon.
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This is why I ponied up for two EVSEs. Most of the portable ones are not UL listed, but for occasional use I'm okay with that, and got a Mustart to keep in the car. But I don't feel comfortable running that every night while I'm sleeping. So for my daily charge I use the made-in-Canada, tough-as-nails, UL listed Grizzl-E. Of course I don't really have the hard data to justify this expense but it makes me feel safer.I'm surprised no one has brought up the UL listed aspect in this thread yet, most of the cheaper EVSEs you find are not UL listed (nor do they carry any other certification of any kind).
I know there have been a lot of recommendations of the Mustart EVSEs in here, and they are supposed to be TUV certified, but I just recently read an article that claimed the Mustart products have a fake TUV stamp on them and don't actually meet the requirements of certification...so I'm suspicious of Mustart now :/
I plan on getting the Grizzl-E mini soon!This is why I ponied up for two EVSEs. Most of the portable ones are not UL listed, but for occasional use I'm okay with that, and got a Mustart to keep in the car. But I don't feel comfortable running that every night while I'm sleeping. So for my daily charge I use the made-in-Canada, tough-as-nails, UL listed Grizzl-E. Of course I don't really have the hard data to justify this expense but it makes me feel safer.
A related question: I'm planning to install an EVSE in the alley behind my house. I'll install it on my side of the fence to defend against theft. But I'm also considering the elements; here in Baltimore, the Summers are very hot and humid, and the winters can be wet and frigid.
- Would a portable/removable charger be more subject to the elements (because of its connection)? and
- Should I trust the electrician who's offered to put in an above-ground 50 amp cable, shielded in PVC?
Is attached to house wall not an option? It would be a shorter wire run. Plus the J-1772 cord tend to be quite long.
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