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ID.4 1st Edition
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Part of my new vehicle acquisition, despite dealer prep, is to wash and then polish.

Dealer Prep can be hit or miss and even the [rare] best efforts still leave some to be desired. Especially for an anal detail oriented guy like me. 🤷‍♂️ Not the least of which, they never seem to address the latent suction cup marks used to lift/position the windshield at the factory.

These days I use a random-orbital machine (Griot's Garage that I got almost when first available, but Porter Cable also excellent) with a dedicated polish pad. I use either Griot's Garage "Complete Polish" or Zaino's All-in-One (cleaner, polish, protectant), the latter in this case. Although there is a protectant component I'll follow up with their Z-2 polish as recommended and I'll just use the Z-2 going forward.

The current Germanic paint jobs are even better than they were say a dozen years ago and those were already quite good. There's almost no "orange peel" in the clear coat which is amazing for mass produced vehicles. But I like to polish anyway.

I also used Griot's glass polish and that too took care of business. I follow the "first do no harm" principle to "paint correction" and glass care in that I use mild products and only advance to more aggressive if necessary in measured steps. Case in point, if the glass cleaning & polish hadn't been sufficient I would have then used 0000 (4-ought; 4/0) steel wool with a light touch. I followed this up with their glass sealant.

The dealer got a little over zealous with their tire shine product application and therefore some "sling" so had to address that as well on the lower valence matte panels and a little on a couple rim faces.

I passed on the dealer-installed Ceramic coating, although I have no doubt that this is a very viable technology. But I had products on hand to use up, and time to do it, and somewhat therapeutic activity. :)

So, what do others like to do when they get their new baby home? :unsure:

ps: I told myself I would revert to a more "Jeep mentality" with the ID.4 and thereby less care of this type, but .... not yet, not yet. ;)
 

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Happy owner of a blue ID.4 First Edition
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I told myself I would revert to a more "Jeep mentality" with the ID.4 and thereby less care of this type, but .... not yet, not yet. ;)
Thanks for the laugh!
I might give my new car a little TLC, but no promises to myself, my wife, or anyone here.
 

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Been 8 days and no wash yet. Didn't let the dealer touch it.
Planing on starting this weeked. Looks like 60 here at Boston.

Will wash to remove any wax or dirt on the car and run GYEON Iron Remover and see how it ends up. Depending on that, I might not claybar. Will see.
After that Turtle Wax Ice Seal N Shine Spray. 3 sprays to microfiber pad and then 90 degree, one visit each way.

For interior, I like 303 Marine UV Protectant Spray.
Got the front windows tinted. Clean all windows and all. So that's the plan for tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for reminding me. I always like to use 303 Marine on the dashboard to resist UV damage. Just a very light application tho' so as Not to impose glare.

Off to do so ..... ;)

...
For interior, I like 303 Marine UV Protectant Spray.
...
 

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2021 ID.4 1st Edition Blue Dusk
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I got the car on 3/20 Saturday and washed the very next day. I used Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Spray Wax Coating. Yesterday I washed the car again and applied a second coating of Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Spray. For the interior I used Mothers VLR. My car sits in the garage all day since I work from home. I may look into 303 Marine since I'm parking the Golf outside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just cleaned the hood/bonnet-interior volume (aka "Frunk"). A whole lot of dust/sand/salt(?) residue likely from the time spent sitting in port and/or over-the-road transport. But nothing a clean towel, detailing spray and a half hour or so labor couldn't resolve. ;) Obviously my dealer prep didn't go that far.

Interesting to note where the robotic painters couldn't reach underside the hood. At first I thought it was a dust layer but then discovered no, it was where the body paint spray was blocked and therefore left off. Not anything you'd see at a glance, but ... 👀

Also discovered the hood is steel, as easily able to attach my magnetic-base light anywhere. I might have expected aluminum but then again not at this price point. However in VW fashion well designed/constructed of thin sheet and lattice reinforcing segments, so relatively light.

The 12VDC battery is surprisingly small, but then not a whole lot it has to do in the grand scheme of things and it's kept topped up. Nice plastic cover over the Positive access point and prominent Negative stud on the firewall.

All fluids where they should be. All in all a good visit. :)

Oh, and the rear license plate wasn't attached anywhere near parallel with the upper body line, so drilled a pilot hole and voila. Yes, I'm that anal, but also have a nagging eye for same. :oops: First minor mod was replacing rather garish dealer plastic plate frames with nice thin stainless from CARiD.
 

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Oh, and the rear license plate wasn't attached anywhere near parallel with the upper body line, so drilled a pilot hole and voila. Yes, I'm that anal, but also have a nagging eye for same. :oops:
Funny, I was out for a run this morning and passed a dealership. I was noticing how not all the front license plates were perfect to parallel and was getting OCD urges just running by.
 

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Happy owner of a blue ID.4 First Edition
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Funny, I was out for a run this morning and passed a dealership. I was noticing how not all the front license plates were perfect to parallel and was getting OCD urges just running by.
That'll trigger my mod instinct too, from near absent to overdrive.
I think I will immediately replace the dealer license plate frame as well. I hate advertising for companies without being paid for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
"Are all ID.4s delivered to dealer with some kind of plastic film on the exterior for paint protection? I'm still cleaning something like glue off the roof and top of back hatch. It gives paint a dull finish look." -Dana

My dealership did a very good job on this 'prep', other than the typical lingering windshield suction cup marks from its robotic installation.

Dawn dishwashing soap is my initial go-to for this type of 'paint correction' issue and also when I want to completely remove all wax, etc. prior to a new sealant/wax application. Shouldn't use Dawn as a regular car wash but in these very occasional instances it's quite good.

Follow that up with a Clay Bar or synthetic equivalent pad. Polish and then wax/seal.

If the adhesive is too much for Dawn then "Goo Gone" or similar citrus-based works well and won't damage the paint. But it will similarly remove any wax/sealant.
 

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Hi Everyone! This thread was pointed out to me as I am semi clueless on what to use on a new car, from rags and brushes to the best first soap, to buying a clay rod? Etc.

I have seen 303 mentioned for interior on the dash. As an outdoor product, how is the smell (kids are super sensative to smell), and how often to you apply?

Any recommendations for the leather seats?

For soap and brushes, any recommendations?

From there but clay bars? Really confused on this point.

From there, zainos all in one? And then Z-2 immediately after and ongoing.

Would this be the best way to go? FYI I am in Florida so the sun is BRUTAL here and I am looking for best protection that requires infrequent upkeep. At times, serious protection from bugs (love bugs) on the grill would be amazing.

Speaking of which, do you all recommend anything for the plastic parts, rims, and tires?

And last question (wow I am asking a lot, sorry!) If I am getting tint done, should I wait to do this stuff after I get tint or does it not matter since tint is interior.

To whichever poor kind soul attempts to answer any of these questions, you have my gratitude. In the meantime I will try to look up these answers myself. It just seems that every site has a different opinion and they conveniently sell the product they are recommending (no bias there!) So I am not sure what to trust.

Thank you!
 

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As a more general answer to your questions, you can buy any products from Meguiars, Mothers, Griots, or a few others and feel totally confident in using the products. They are made for the diyers and it takes a lot to mess something up while using their products. A few quick YouTube videos will give you quick instruction and visuals on how to use the products and in what order to do things.

As for the tinting, I would do a quick clean of the interior just to allow the workers a cleaner work environment. You will want to apply interior protectant after they are done because they will get the interior a little wet (just the nature of tinting). If they are good, they won’t make a mess and should even wipe the interior down after they are done.
 

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Late to the party here, but what is the preferred way to get those suction cup marks off the windshield? I only ask as I've been frustrated trying to remove them for three years on my Golf and now I see them on the ID.4.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
0000 steel wool (four ought) usually does the trick. That’s the finest, least aggressive, steel wool.
Of course first thoroughly clean the windshield with a quality glass cleaner.

edit: just noticed I had already cited same in my first and a subsequent post above: 🤷‍♂️

"I also used Griot's glass polish and that too took care of business. I follow the "first do no harm" principle to "paint correction" and glass care in that I use mild products and only advance to more aggressive if necessary in measured steps. Case in point, if the glass cleaning & polish hadn't been sufficient I would have then used 0000 (4-ought; 4/0) steel wool with a light touch. I followed this up with their glass sealant."

"My dealership did a very good job on this 'prep', other than the typical lingering windshield suction cup marks from its robotic installation."
Late to the party here, but what is the preferred way to get those suction cup marks off the windshield? I only ask as I've been frustrated trying to remove them for three years on my Golf and now I see them on the ID.4.
 

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Does anyone have a good procedure for repairing chips in the paint? After a year I've got a couple of small chips. I've got the paint and the clearcoat to fix it but i really want to avoid it looking like paint that's been added to a hole. I'm assuming i need to grind the existing paint a bit, and then add it and polish it a certain kind of way. not something I want to guess at though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Resist the urge to dab on the touchup paint. Much better to do several very light applications so there’s not much to polish back.

Of course wash/dry or otherwise clean just that immediate area. Don't clay bar however as the clay can lodge in the chip void.
No need to "grind" the chip. If very deep to bare metal and already some rust forming just clean out the void(s).
Then one coat of primer if the chip is deep and through the color and your kit came with same.
Then a coat or two of color and then a coat or two of clear.
Again, take your time and very thin coats. Note that some kits come with a color/clear premix in one application but same very light coats method applies. I typically use a fine artist's brush rather than the broader cap-brush of most touchup vials. I don't like the pen-type touchups as can be hard to control paint volume.

Let the touchup paint fully cure for a couple weeks or more before you lightly polish. A month is best if you can find the patience. Or if you did dab and need to level do that after a week or so, and if badly dabbed lightly use some 800-1000 automotive wet & dry sandpaper - wetted. We've all done it. ;) If you do have to color-sand then you'll definitely need to polish to restore luster. Remember that all sanding/polishing/waxing is an attempt to fool our perception by lessening imperfection reflection.

btw: Dr. Colorchip is actually quite good if you have say the typical road rash across the leading portion of the hood/bonnet, where doing individual chips/abrasions would be especially tedious.

One more time - adopt a Hippocratic Oath mindset of "first do no harm" and use the least aggressive process/products and only move up in intensity if absolutely necessary. Otherwise you'll end up "chasing the needles" of having to over/re-correct.

Lastly, don’t expect a touchup job, no matter how careful, to be anywhere near a Pro respray. But if done well it will certainly cure the 5-10 foot view.
Does anyone have a good procedure for repairing chips in the paint? After a year I've got a couple of small chips. I've got the paint and the clearcoat to fix it but i really want to avoid it looking like paint that's been added to a hole. I'm assuming i need to grind the existing paint a bit, and then add it and polish it a certain kind of way. not something I want to guess at though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Since today commences my 2nd year I figured a good polish was in order. First of course a very thorough wash & rinse to assure all that sticky Winter salt was gone.
 

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Finally got around today on doing the first part of an overall outside detail anyhow. Had the car about a week, but it was floated to Houston, trained to Denver, and then trucked back to Florida on the back of a flatbed. My current car care product selection is pretty pedestrian, though I've watched plenty of YouTube videos from lots of detailers. LOL You can drop a mint on product. Mostly it's stuff I tried more or less for the first time, or a few basics I've been using for awhile.

So for me, I washed it all down using Meguiar's Liquid Gold shampoo, then clay barred the whole car using their clay bar and Quick Detailer (what they usually package as their luber if you buy it as a kit), Chemical Guys VFP on all the external lower black plastic bits, and then a coat of Meguier's Ultimate Wax on at least the front clip of the car and the mirrors, and some Eagle 1 on the tires before the wife wanted to go get some dinner and it got too dark. :) It probably could use a very light polish since the clay bar always leaves small micro-scratches in the paint, but they are hard to see unless you get the light at just the right angle. But I don't yet have a DA polisher other than the small woodworking one I have. LOL Still need to do the window trim and clean the windows for the outside. And then a full on interior treatment, but started anyhow!

I was pleasantly surprised that the paint was as clean as it was from the clay barring though. It was definatly not smooth before hand, but there was was only modest gunk collected by the clay, mostly on the side doors.
 
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