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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I hit a deer and messed up the front of my ID.4. Ordered a new headlight last night, as well as all of the other broken plastic parts involved...

Does anyone know if the new headlight will require any coding, or is it plug and play? I can submit a supplement to my insurance company to cover the cost of alignment/coding if anything is required at the dealership afterwards.

 

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Yes it will require alignment and adaptation of new calibration....this is something even if you have capability to access will still require calibration board.
They will use rear wheels to align headlights .
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes it will require alignment and adaptation of new calibration....this is something even if you have capability to access will still require calibration board.
They will use rear wheels to align headlights .
Gotcha - I'll get with the dealer once everything is re-installed.

And let's hope you didn't remove firefighters fuse to kill HV DC.
There are other ways to to do this.
Indeed I did. The 12V battery was disconnected first, then HV fuse.
 

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So sorry to hear this. Good luck with the repair.
 

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Deer strikes are the worst! Very Sorry to hear as well and all the best for a speedy parts provision and self-repair.
I hit a deer and messed up the front of my ID.4. Ordered a new headlight last night, as well as all of the other broken plastic parts involved...

Does anyone know if the new headlight will require any coding, or is it plug and play? I can submit a supplement to my insurance company to cover the cost of alignment/coding if anything is required at the dealership afterwards.
 

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On the upside, when a deer literally T-boned my wife right across from our town's police station they asked her if she wanted it. Still a first right of refusal thing on the books in our area. She declined as she figured having a deer strapped across the hood of her Lexus would not be a good look. :ROFLMAO:
 

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She declined as she figured having a deer strapped across the hood of her Lexus would not be a good look. :ROFLMAO:
Better than the deer hunter who went out and came back with a cow strapped across the hood of his Jeep! :ROFLMAO:

Don
 

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VW ID.4 1st (picked up 3/19/21).
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On the upside, when a deer literally T-boned my wife right across from our town's police station they asked her if she wanted it. Still a first right of refusal thing on the books in our area. She declined as she figured having a deer strapped across the hood of her Lexus would not be a good look. :ROFLMAO:
You have to know someone that can dress a deer, and you would need lots of friends and family with chest freezers.

But if you don't take it, the meat goes to homeless shelters and to people who are struggling financially (at least it does here) - it isn't wasted.
 

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fiehlsport:
I don't see how anyone could reach the bottom two bolts on the front pedestrian sound module without the bumper cover removed. But does appear that the connector for same is doable just reaching down.
The driver-interior fuse panel cover is a bear (deer?) to get off. Feels like you're going to break the cover. But I guess if you're already ticked off .... Easier to pull that high voltage disconnect fuse than to disconnect the line coupling in the "frunk." Especially given the trouble many have had re-connecting it.
I hit a deer and messed up the front of my ID.4. Ordered a new headlight last night, as well as all of the other broken plastic parts involved...
...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
fiehlsport:
I don't see how anyone could reach the bottom two bolts on the front pedestrian sound module without the bumper cover removed. But does appear that the connector for same is doable just reaching down.
The driver-interior fuse panel cover is a bear (deer?) to get off. Feels like you're going to break the cover. But I guess if you're already ticked off .... Easier to pull that high voltage disconnect fuse than to disconnect the line coupling in the "frunk." Especially given the trouble many have had re-connecting it.
Yeah, there's a lot of open space so you can stick your entire arm down there to loosen all of the bolts. It's doable, just not immediately evident! But your entire arm will be down there, and you're working blind.

I honestly tried to fiddle with the HV disconnect under the hood and after 15 seconds got frustrated, figured I'd just pull the fuse since I knew I could just do it and move on. I didn't know that there was a difference, if any??
 

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Gotcha - I'll get with the dealer once everything is re-installed.



Indeed I did. The 12V battery was disconnected first, then HV fuse.
Account service labor fee for reseting battery BMS from firefighter fuse removal.
In future if you are working on anything else beside HV DC Wiring or HV DC electronics disregard shutting down HV Battery.
 

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Electrically there's no difference between the TWO any of the three (3) HV disconnects [there's also one in the cargo area adjacent the manual EVSE plug disconnect cable].
Font Rectangle Automotive exterior Engineering Automotive tire
🚫
I haven't actually seen the cargo area disconnect as I've been reticent to cut the perforations in the fabric access panel. 🤪

I think what VW Technician was getting at, and then amplified, is no need to disconnect the HV line unless working on same. But in an accident it pays to be sure and in the moment I would have done so too. First responders would have likewise done same, if properly trained on EV's.
... I honestly tried to fiddle with the HV disconnect under the hood and after 15 seconds got frustrated, figured I'd just pull the fuse since I knew I could just do it and move on. I didn't know that there was a difference, if any??
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks. Hopefully no ill-effects from the HV fuse removal - I know at least a few of us on here have done it and haven't had any issues with error codes or needing BMS reset. Fingers crossed, but I suspect I'll be at the dealer after this is all over anyway.

My service advisor said that luckily the headlight does not need any coding and should be plug and play. Alignment, we'll see - looks like it's going to need that regardless, or I'll just eyeball it against a brick wall in a parking lot ;)
 

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Electrically there's no difference between any of the three (3) HV disconnects [there's also one in the cargo area adjacent the manual EVSE plug disconnect cable].
View attachment 5622
I haven't actually seen the cargo area disconnect as I've been reticent to cut the perforations in the fabric access panel. 🤪

I think what VW Technician was getting at, and then amplified, is no need to disconnect the HV line unless working on same. But in an accident it pays to be sure and in the moment I would have done so too. First responders would have likewise done same, if properly trained on EV's.
I actually cut that panel and looked for the disconnect. It wasn't there, only the cable for the socket lock. Even stuck a borescope in there, nope, not there.
 

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Interesting. So the enclosed document was obviously written for another market. Since the gold color is featured I guess that should have been a tipoff.

I actually cut that panel and looked for the disconnect. It wasn't there, only the cable for the socket lock. Even stuck a borescope in there, nope, not there.
 

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