[TPG]

Can somebody explain how to fully cycle the power on the ID.4?

A number of us have found that cycling power is effective for clearing errors, but the car seems to stay powered on at some level for some time (30 min?) after exiting the vehicle. Yesterday the car threw several electrical and drivetrain errors when my wife was driving it, and the car refused to go into Drive or move at all afterward. This happened at an entrance to an intersection and the car blocked traffic. We tried exiting and walking away for awhile and pushing the "Ignition" button on the steering column several times, but the errors did not clear. They did clear by the time the dealer's EV techs checked after the tow truck dropped the car off at the dealer's service department later in the day.

Is there a recommended procedure for disconnecting the 12V supply (where?) and the HV system and then reconnecting to clear problems like this?

 

[Froggy]

Well that is not good. I think that I would have it towed to the dealer.

 

[TPG]

Well that is not good. I think that I would have it towed to the dealer.

The car would not move under its own power so I did have it towed to the dealer.

 

[Eyegautdis]

I thought I read somewhere you could hold the power button on the steering column.

Has anyone done this or can test this?

 

[theboomr]

I thought I read somewhere you could hold the power button on the steering column.

Has anyone done this or can test this?

I remembered reading that too and may have suggested it myself once or twice, but a few days ago I tried testing it just to see if it actually did anything and nothing happened, even after holding for like maybe 30 seconds. I tried doing it with the car already on, and with it off.

 

[corfam]

Can somebody explain how to fully cycle the power on the ID.4?
....
Is there a recommended procedure for disconnecting the 12V supply (where?) and the HV system and then reconnecting to clear problems like this?

@fiehlsport posted this document...https://www.nfpa.org/-/media/Files/...esponse-Guides/Volkswagen/Volkswagen-ID4.ashx which gives pretty good information.

You need to disconnect the negative terminal on the 12-volt battery and then also disconnect the high voltage side by separating a connector under the hood or pull an interior placed fuse under the steering wheel. There is a 3rd option for disconnecting the high voltage side in the trunk, but that should only be used for emergencies and apparently requires the dealer to reconnect.

 

[Eyegautdis]

@fiehlsport posted this document...https://www.nfpa.org/-/media/Files/...esponse-Guides/Volkswagen/Volkswagen-ID4.ashx which gives pretty good information.

You need to disconnect the negative terminal on the 12-volt battery and then also disconnect the high voltage side by separating a connector under the hood or pull an interior placed fuse under the steering wheel. There is a 3rd option for disconnecting the high voltage side in the trunk, but that should only be used for emergencies and apparently requires the dealer to reconnect.

This is a really great PDF. Maybe the press and hold I remember was on the infotainment screen for when it goes black.

 

[corfam]

Maybe the press and hold I remember was on the infotainment screen for when it goes black.

You were remembering correctly that it's been stated that holding the power button on the steering column provides some level of reset. I've never tried it myself so I don't know if it does anything....although now that @theboomr has tried it and found it didn't work I assume it was just mistaken info.

 

[fiehlsport]

Yup, 12V + HV pull will fully reset the car. Just removing the 12V doesn't always do it. I'm half-expecting my car to brick itself due to a bug (not an actual failure) at some point and will be ready with the HV disconnect info instead of towing it!

 

[TPG]

Yup, 12V + HV pull will fully reset the car. Just removing the 12V doesn't always do it. I'm half-expecting my car to brick itself due to a bug (not an actual failure) at some point and will be ready with the HV disconnect info instead of towing it!

Thanks for this tip and for posting that great emergency electric

 

[corfam]

Just removing the 12V doesn't always do it.

As you alluded...it seems that pulling only the negative 12 volt battery terminal can fix some things. I just found Chris at Battery Life mentioning in one of his older ID.3 videos that disconnecting 12 volt only fixed issues in the past (Link). So the order of car problem resets would be:

Step 1: Soft reset Infotainment by holding down Infotainment Power Button for ~10s until screen reboots. Check for problem fix. If problem gone then done. If problem persists proceed to step 2.​

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Step 2: Put car to sleep & restart by Exiting car, Lock, Wait few secs, Unlock, Sit in driver seat, Buckle seat belt, & then Restart car with brake pedal push. Check for problem fix. If some minor error messages remain they may disappear after driving or waiting some time and/or repeating car sleep & restart procedure. If problem gone then done. If problem persists proceed to step 3.​

​

Step 3: Disconnect 12 volt negative terminal for 30 seconds. Reconnect. Check for problem fix. If some minor error messages remain they may disappear after driving or waiting some time and/or repeating "putting car to sleep & restarting procedure" as noted in Step 2. If problem remains, proceed to step 4.​

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Step 4: Disconnect 12 volt negative terminal again and also disconnect high voltage connection. Wait for 30 seconds. Reconnect both. Check for fix. If some minor error messages remain they may disappear after waiting some time and/or repeating "putting car to sleep & restarting procedure" as noted in Step 2. If problem remains, contact VW Roadside Assistance at 1-800-411-6688 first and then finally a VW dealer.​

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I know this is repeating what's been mentioned, but I'm just summarizing the steps for my future reference. I'm assuming the "Wait for 30 seconds" is long enough based off comment Chris made in his video.

We should all be keeping a socket wrench with a 10 mm socket in the car to be ready for any battery terminal disconnect needs.

 

[Huey52]

Thanks very much fiehlsport for posting this insightful PDF !!
And to you corfam for encapsulating the in-priority procedures.
btw: Also interesting that there is a provision for charging socket disconnect when all else fails. I wondered what that flap was but assumed an interior emergency hatch release (perhaps accomplishes both; or two pulls? I didn't want to break the panel perforations but now might).

TPG: I am particularly dismayed to hear of your wife's latest incident. You've had more than your fair share of issues!! I do hope this gets quickly elevated and resolved.

Yup, 12V + HV pull will fully reset the car. Just removing the 12V doesn't always do it. I'm half-expecting my car to brick itself due to a bug (not an actual failure) at some point and will be ready with the HV disconnect info instead of towing it!

 

[corfam]

Tonight, I came across this Reddit post that described a slightly different procedure to get an undrivable ID.4 fixed.

https://www.reddit.com/r/VWiD4Owners/comments/ng1jzu
It seems VW stressed to that customer to specifically buckle driver seatbelt after putting car to sleep through exit, locking, & unlocking, and before starting car with brake push. Including that seat belt buckle apparently fixed the issue. Weird. That's a new one to me. I'll edit/update the summary steps in my post above to include this seat belt step.

Maybe next suggestion from VW will be to rub the dash and tell the car you are sorry.

 

[Huey52]

Thanks again corfam, but I'm still placing a 10mm socket in my emergency kit.

And now done. Tested 10mm socket/wrench and tight quarters but do-able.
Other socket/adapter and breaker bar for locking lug use.

Everything fits nicely in aft well. Thanks again corfam!

 

[corfam]

Thanks again corfam, but I'm still placing a 10mm socket in my emergency kit.

I'm not confident that the seat belt was really any part of the fix either. It sounds like it's just a safety step to me, but easy enough to include in steps.

 

[corfam]

Other socket/adapter and breaker bar for locking lug use.

Fit is perfect. Thanks for showing how emergency case slides in. For the sockets, I noticed you had 3 in your kit. The 10 mm is for the battery terminal. The lug nut is a 17 mm and what is your 3rd one? I have included a 13 mm socket in my kit in case I need to remove that support bar under hood which traps the battery.

 

[Astros]

I haven't tested it, but it could be that you can only switch out of Park if the driver's seat belt is fastened. If that fixed the problem in this case, then it could be that all that was wrong was they didn't have their seatbelt fastened the first time they tried 🤷‍♂️

 

[Huey52]

I found I also needed an adapter in addition to the 17mm for the locking lug socket given my breaker bar. The upside is a bit more bar-body space to rotate.
Good call on the tower brace socket as well.

Fit is perfect. Thanks for showing how emergency case slides in. For the sockets, I noticed you had 3 in your kit. The 10 mm is for the battery terminal. The lug nut is a 17 mm and what is your 3rd one? I have included a 13 mm socket in my kit in case I need to remove that support bar under hood which traps the battery.

 

[baijyof]

Anyone knows how to push the 12V battery fuse ( the one under the hood ) back in? I was able to pull it out as it was explained on the picture - but for whatever reason it doesn't go back and I don't want to push too hard.

 

[corfam]

Anyone knows how to push the 12V battery fuse ( the one under the hood ) back in? I was able to pull it out as it was explained on the picture - but for whatever reason it doesn't go back and I don't want to push too hard.

I haven't read any posts where someone pulled that fuse, so it's possible you could be the first one on the forum to do so. Can you please take photos of the ends of the fuse and the connector...at least as much as visible. It does seem reasonable that the connector could require a high force to seat the fuse given the current involved and the gage of the wire/connector.