I have not experienced this. I would go with your first guess. To accomplish the "PARK/Emergency Brake/Parking Brake" with enough fail-safe confidence to hold the car unattended on the side of a mountain, I have to surmise they lock and load the hydraulic brake system. Probably by using a servo-motor and check valve, or similar, to run up and maintain a high pressure at the disks and drums. This is my first guess. Maybe VW TECHNICIAN will know with certainty. I've always wondered if there is an equivalent to a parking pawl in the motor transfer case. I sure haven't ever felt or heard any evidence that there is.
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ID.4 Loud "bang" after parking overnight after rainy day
Yesterday we had a lot of rain in my area of Florida. When I returned home last night the roads were wet so I assume that the underside of my car was wet including the wheels and brakes. I backed the car into my garage as usual. I did not plug in to recharge as my charge level was adequate.
This morning, I opened the garage door and got into my ID.4 Pro S with about 3100 miles on the odometer. I switched to "D". The headlights did there normal action of bowing down and then up. It was still dark outside. The car did not start to creep which was unusual. I stepped on the "gas" pedal and there was a "bang" sound and the car started to move. Everything seemed normal other than the loud noise when the car started to move.
I am going to guess that the brakes were wet when I parked the car last night and perhaps they had "rusted" a little or something else was binding causing them to hold briefly until some forward motion was requested by my pressing on the accelerator. I checked and there were no pieces of the car on the garage floor. There were a few puddles. (We have an epoxy floor making it easy to check.)
Operation was normal after this including parking the car for an hour and then driving off again.
Has anyone else experienced this or have any ideas what might have caused it?
This morning, I opened the garage door and got into my ID.4 Pro S with about 3100 miles on the odometer. I switched to "D". The headlights did there normal action of bowing down and then up. It was still dark outside. The car did not start to creep which was unusual. I stepped on the "gas" pedal and there was a "bang" sound and the car started to move. Everything seemed normal other than the loud noise when the car started to move.
I am going to guess that the brakes were wet when I parked the car last night and perhaps they had "rusted" a little or something else was binding causing them to hold briefly until some forward motion was requested by my pressing on the accelerator. I checked and there were no pieces of the car on the garage floor. There were a few puddles. (We have an epoxy floor making it easy to check.)
Operation was normal after this including parking the car for an hour and then driving off again.
Has anyone else experienced this or have any ideas what might have caused it?
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I have had this exactly twice. Due to child-induced amnesia, I can't perfectly recall if it was raining or not, but I think it was wet out for at least one of the events. Haven't had it happen for a couple of thousand miles now.
I think you are correct that this is the brakes somehow sticking to the rotors.
I think you are correct that this is the brakes somehow sticking to the rotors.
It might be a good idea to bring it in and have it checked out, and report it to VW Customer Care. 800-822-8987
VW has mentioned somewhere -- maybe I read it in the NHTSA docs -- that there's no parking pawl on the ID.4.I've always wondered if there is an equivalent to a parking pawl in the motor transfer case. I sure haven't ever felt or heard any evidence that there is.
I do wonder about your theory, however. I believe an "emergency brake" needs to be independently engaged by a secondary method in case the main hydraulic system fails. I had assumed the servo noise that emanates from the rear wheels when parking is direct drive, like on all the Audis / Volvos / BMWs. But with these being drums, I'm curious how it works.
OK YES! I had this happen to me, exactly like you described, twice. Both times, after a rainy drive home, then leaving the car in the garage overnight, and having to step on the accelerator to get it to move forward the next morning, and the "loud bang" coming from the rear. I haven't done anything about it -- just took the same prediction you did that it was related to the water binding the brakes/etc somehow.
That happens all the time with our Audi A4. That is one of the reasons that VW put drum brakes on the rear of the ID.4. With regen braking and the front disks doing a lot of the braking the rear brakes of an EV never get used. This causes a lot of issues that you never hear about. Look up Telsa rear brake problems on Google.Yesterday we had a lot of rain in my area of Florida. When I returned home last night the roads were wet so I assume that the underside of my car was wet including the wheels and brakes. I backed the car into my garage as usual. I did not plug in to recharge as my charge level was adequate.
This morning, I opened the garage door and got into my ID.4 Pro S with about 3100 miles on the odometer. I switched to "D". The headlights did there normal action of bowing down and then up. It was still dark outside. The car did not start to creep which was unusual. I stepped on the "gas" pedal and there was a "bang" sound and the car started to move. Everything seemed normal other than the loud noise when the car started to move.
I am going to guess that the brakes were wet when I parked the car last night and perhaps they had "rusted" a little or something else was binding causing them to hold briefly until some forward motion was requested by my pressing on the accelerator. I checked and there were no pieces of the car on the garage floor. There were a few puddles. (We have an epoxy floor making it easy to check.)
Operation was normal after this including parking the car for an hour and then driving off again.
Has anyone else experienced this or have any ideas what might have caused it?
This happens regularly with my 2019 Arteon 4motion, and is common with most newer cars that run semi-metallic brake pads. If you apply the parking brake, and I assume the ID.4 probably does this automatically, then the wet brake pads will slightly rust/stick to the rotors. Simply releasing the parking brake won't get them loose, you have to get the car rolling which results in a loud pop from the rear axle.
Some cars are worse about this than others, it all depends on the type of brake pads installed and how much rain or moisture is involved. My 2014 Fiesta ST was really bad about it, I'd have to give it a lot of power to get it to pop the rear brakes loose when this happened.
If you're parked on a level surface and don't need to use the parking brake, then it won't stick and it will give the pads a chance to dry out. I highly doubt this is a unique problem with the ID.4.
Some cars are worse about this than others, it all depends on the type of brake pads installed and how much rain or moisture is involved. My 2014 Fiesta ST was really bad about it, I'd have to give it a lot of power to get it to pop the rear brakes loose when this happened.
If you're parked on a level surface and don't need to use the parking brake, then it won't stick and it will give the pads a chance to dry out. I highly doubt this is a unique problem with the ID.4.
Thank you for the information. I guess this is just a "feature" of the wheel/brake arrangement. I don't believe I have an option to NOT set the parking brake on the ID.4.This happens regularly with my 2019 Arteon 4motion, and is common with most newer cars that run semi-metallic brake pads. If you apply the parking brake, and I assume the ID.4 probably does this automatically, then the wet brake pads will slightly rust/stick to the rotors. Simply releasing the parking brake won't get them loose, you have to get the car rolling which results in a loud pop from the rear axle.
Some cars are worse about this than others, it all depends on the type of brake pads installed and how much rain or moisture is involved. My 2014 Fiesta ST was really bad about it, I'd have to give it a lot of power to get it to pop the rear brakes loose when this happened.
If you're parked on a level surface and don't need to use the parking brake, then it won't stick and it will give the pads a chance to dry out. I highly doubt this is a unique problem with the ID.4.
Yep, no pawl--it's all brakes on our EVs, so that's something new to get used to.Thank you for the information. I guess this is just a "feature" of the wheel/brake arrangement. I don't believe I have an option to NOT set the parking brake on the ID.4.
I think I'm ok with that. For the longest time I'd neglect to set my brake on my i3. It works of course roll a tiny bit until the pawl engaged, and I could feel the mass of the car push against it, then rebound slightly.
The pawl module actually failed me early on. Stranded me. I learned to open the maintenance cover and rap it with a wrench. It's was a pretty easy fix, but it's rather not have it if it's not needed.
Of course, with the ID.4, I'm not allowed to forget to set the brake, so that wouldn't be a problem.
The pawl module actually failed me early on. Stranded me. I learned to open the maintenance cover and rap it with a wrench. It's was a pretty easy fix, but it's rather not have it if it's not needed.
Of course, with the ID.4, I'm not allowed to forget to set the brake, so that wouldn't be a problem.
Remember, there are no brake pads on the rear brakes because they are traditional drum type brakes. Which may cause them to hang up when wet more so than pads.
I'm wondering if they pressurize the hydraulic system first, then engage a direct servo-"screw jack" to hold pads and shoes as independent and primary? The reason I think that is from the amount of dancing that the car's brake pedal does during the process. Perhaps the hydraulics are pressurized on both ends of the process to relieve the "screw jack" from high loading at application and release of the parking brake. It's definitely a unique system from what I have ever seen.I believe an "emergency brake" needs to be independently engaged by a secondary method in case the main hydraulic system fails. I had assumed the servo noise that emanates from the rear wheels when parking is direct drive
Yes, but only once and I don't remember if it was raining. I have had the ID4 for 3 months and we don't have a garage. Interesting thing is that the single time that this "bang" happened was when I was visiting my mother on Cape Cod who has a garage, which was where I was keeping the ID4 to charge via granny cable. Maybe just a coincidence.I stepped on the "gas" pedal and there was a "bang" sound and the car started to move. Everything seemed normal other than the loud noise when the car started to move. Operation was normal after this including parking the car for an hour and then driving off again.
Has anyone else experienced this or have any ideas what might have caused it?
All the cars with Drum brakes at back I had did that eventually... scary at first.. happens mostly if it stays still for weeks tho.. Florida heat and rain could be effecting the speed of this..
From a previous entry:I think I'm ok with that. For the longest time I'd neglect to set my brake on my i3. It works of course roll a tiny bit until the pawl engaged, and I could feel the mass of the car push against it, then rebound slightly.
The pawl module actually failed me early on. Stranded me. I learned to open the maintenance cover and rap it with a wrench. It's was a pretty easy fix, but it's rather not have it if it's not needed.
Of course, with the ID.4, I'm not allowed to forget to set the brake, so that wouldn't be a problem.
I've tried pushing the "P" Park button from 5 mph, 15 mph, 30 mph and 45 mph.
RED warning on the binnacle each time!
5 mph instant stop, no modulation. Probably because there wasn't time to modulate.
15 mph small modulation if you hold down and release the P button, full emergency braking if you don't release the P button.
30 mph pretty much the same as 15 mph.
45 mph my FE stopped as if I slammed on the foot brakes. If you release the P button before full stop, then you can kinda modulate it. I'm guessing that there are no rear lights on like using the brake pedal.
I would recommend everyone try it at 30 mph so you will observe what happens and you get a feeling before you might have to use it!
What is purpose of your experiment..... what you doing is very dangerous.From a previous entry:
I've tried pushing the "P" Park button from 5 mph, 15 mph, 30 mph and 45 mph.
RED warning on the binnacle each time!
5 mph instant stop, no modulation. Probably because there wasn't time to modulate.
15 mph small modulation if you hold down and release the P button, full emergency braking if you don't release the P button.
30 mph pretty much the same as 15 mph.
45 mph my FE stopped as if I slammed on the foot brakes. If you release the P button before full stop, then you can kinda modulate it. I'm guessing that there are no rear lights on like using the brake pedal.
I would recommend everyone try it at 30 mph so you will observe what happens and you get a feeling before you might have to use it!
If you don't know the purpose maybe you're missing something. If your hydraulic brakes failed (not likely) what would YOU do? Reach for the emergency brake handle between the front seats and try to modulate your stop? It's not dangerous if that's why you're trying it before you might have to. That's what the red warning is about. BTW, haven't you ever heard of doing donuts in the snow 😁.What is purpose of your experiment..... what you doing is very dangerous.
I'm thinking that there is a Federal requirement to have a secondary braking system. It can be debated if that brake is an emergency brake or a parking brake.
Opinions are like @$$#0|3$, everyone has one, me too.
I do know more about ZF electronic booster braking systems than what you know....If you don't know the purpose maybe you're missing something. If your hydraulic brakes failed (not likely) what would YOU do? Reach for the emergency brake handle between the front seats and try to modulate your stop? It's not dangerous if that's why you're trying it before you might have to. That's what the red warning is about. BTW, haven't you ever heard of doing donuts in the snow 😁.
I'm thinking that there is a Federal requirement to have a secondary braking system. It can be debated if that brake is an emergency brake or a parking brake.
Opinions are like @$$#0|3$, everyone has one, me too.
Good luck.
Show as some donuts while trashing your ID4.
And once you destroy it. ...show as if warranty will cover your madman donuts experiments.
If you need a car for this purpose you should have it custom built or buy something specifically built for drifting.
Drum brakes have brake shoes rather than brake pads. The braking material is the same its just a different shape and different mechanics.Remember, there are no brake pads on the rear brakes because they are traditional drum type brakes. Which may cause them to hang up when wet more so than pads.
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