I’ve used it on 48A units many times without issues.You are using an adaptor rated for 40 amps maximum, plugged into a Tesla EVSE providing 48 amps? The ID.4 can pull those 48 amps, and as best as I understand it, there's nothing in your setup to prevent those 48 amps from flowing through your adaptor. You'll find content here and elsewhere, saying not to do that.
As I understand it, you could safely use your 40 amp adaptor if you change the ID.4 settings to charge more slowly. But I did not see you do that.
I'm not qualified to give any advice when it comes to electricity. But for example, see the advice here:.
If it gets on 🔥 it will be very hard to defend damages to the EV and Hotel property......using adapter that is not rated for 48 Amp continues rating is trouble waiting to happen.I’ve added a note to the video description - I’ve tried the TeslaTap and TeslaTap mini and wasn’t a fan of not having a latch for the Tesla side. I also haven’t experienced the adapter becoming warm. I probably wouldn’t use it everyday at 48A, but I do use it regularly with my 32A Tesla mobile connector and use it at 48A at hotels while traveling without issue.
Strange, on their site it states the 50A is "compatible with ALL US built EV’s with a charge rate up to 50 AMPS @ 250VAC (12.5 KW)." Although, it could be ambiguous. If you are planning on the 80A, you should consider the Mini 60A.Quick question: a friend of ours has an 80A Tesla wall charger and offered us to use it in case we need it when coming over. Do I understand it correctly that the ID.4 would only be pulling 48A and, thus, I only need to get the 50A TeslaTap to charge safely? Or do I need the 80A version?
edit: the linked thread, post #15, actually clears that up. The 50A Teslatap is rated for 40A continues charging. So the 80A is the TeslaTap we need.
So far, I can't justify the cost of any of these units. How often am I going to HAVE to charge at a Tesla destination charger? $150 - $250 is a lot to pay for the very few times I can imagine using one of these. Also, once Tesla opens their superchargers as promised to CSS cars like the ID.4, my need to use Tesla destination chargers will be even less. However, if a few of my neighbors buy EVs, then we might be able to share some of the equipment I can't justify paying for on my own. If so, I'd opt for the 80A TeslaTap. Like VW Technician has said, we may eventually see CSS cars in the U.S. that can use more than 48A for L2 charging ... and it places less stress on the charging port. But I'd be ok with either the 50A or 60A TeslaTaps, both of which are recommended by Tom Moloughney.If you are planning on the 80A, you should consider the Mini 60A.
But you still should not be advising anyone else to do so. Tesla Tap makes a true 50 amp adapter which you can buy for just $40 more I($199 on Amazon). Unless you're only going to be using the 40 amp unit for home charging on a 32 amp Tesla MCU, then we should be advising everyone to buy an adapter rated at 50 amps or more. Most destination chargers will supply more than 40 amps and using any adapter rated for less than what your ID.4 can draw just isn't safeI’ve used it on 48A units many times without issues.
Quick clarification question: my friend’s charger is 80A but since the ID.4 only pulls 48A, we only need a TeslaTap or mini that can handle 48A of continuous charge rate, correct?Strange, on their site it states the 50A is "compatible with ALL US built EV’s with a charge rate up to 50 AMPS @ 250VAC (12.5 KW)." Although, it could be ambiguous. If you are planning on the 80A, you should consider the Mini 60A.
TeslaTap MINI 60 AMP
www.umc-j1772.com
It's slightly more than the 80A but a much nicer package. The description is much clearer for the Mini - "the TeslaTap MINI 60 compatible with ALL US built EV’s with a continuous charge rate up to 60 AMPS @250VAC (15KW)."
Yes, that's correct! Your car can never draw more than 48A. But some people buying the 80amp version because it's not that much more money and they might get an EV in the future that can take 80A. (Like an F-150 Lightning, for instance.)Quick clarification question: my friend’s charger is 80A but since the ID.4 only pulls 48A, we only need a TeslaTap or mini that can handle 48A of continuous charge rate, correct?
Awesome. Thanks a lot for your help.Yes, that's correct! Your car can never draw more than 48A. But some people buying the 80amp version because it's not that much more money and they might get an EV in the future that can take 80A. (Like an F-150 Lightning, for instance.)
I defer to the people here who understand this stuff better. But I think you always want a safety margin, and I've read that the usual safety margin is 20%. So for 48A, you'd want an adapter that can handle 60A. Presumably, the adapter companies factor this safety margin into their ratings, so a 48A adapter can actually handle 60A. But if I'm buying an adapter, I'm buying one with the largest safety margin I can reasonably afford. We're talking about a lot of juice here and a $40,000+ car. It doesn't make sense to me to shave the margin close to save a few bucks.Quick clarification question: my friend’s charger is 80A but since the ID.4 only pulls 48A, we only need a TeslaTap or mini that can handle 48A of continuous charge rate, correct?
It only takes 20-40 minutes for under rated adapter to melt and possibly get in fire .Another note - per NEC, continuous load is defined as over 3 hours. Most of my use with this adapter is less than 3 hours as I’ll usually get to a hotel and plug in right away, then usually go out dinner or whatever and plug in again after a bit. Usually neither leg will exceed the 3 hours or only a bit.
40A continuous is the rating - that means 50A.It only takes 20-40 minutes for under rated adapter to melt and possibly get in fire .
Continous is defined by 80% of rated current.