I‘ve just completed installing my new Grizzl-E EVSE as a hardwired install. It was a bit harder than I anticipated, so I thought I’d share my experience.
My previous EVSE was a ClipperCreek unit which was hardwired. I had an electrician install a 50 amp circuit that terminated in an electrical box. ClipperCreek supplies their hardwire units from the factory with the whip (flex cable with wires) and connectors, so those units are quite easy to connect to an electrical box: knock out a knockout, connect the wires, done.
Grizzl-E does not supply a hardwire version, though I asked for mine to be configured that way. You need to open the unit and remove the power cord (e.g., 14-50) that comes with the unit. The hole that is left in the bottom of the unit is larger than a 3/4” conduit connector, requiring a pair of reducing washers. The inside of the box lacks clearance for a standard reducing washer, so I used a machine bushing on the inside in place of the reducing washer. Other than that, it’s just how ever many feet of flexible conduit to connect the EVSE to the electrical box, conduit connectors for both ends, conduit straps, and wire (I used 2 x 8 gauge and 1 x 10 gauge). Total cost for the whip was about $35 for a five foot run.
Another note is that Grizzl-E uses crimp on terminals on their wiring harnesses. They are the type that are used in marine and car audio installs.
I was a lot more work than I anticipated, and I’m very satisfied with the result and with the unit. Upgrading from a 16 amp charger to a 40 amp charger makes quite a difference in charge time.
My previous EVSE was a ClipperCreek unit which was hardwired. I had an electrician install a 50 amp circuit that terminated in an electrical box. ClipperCreek supplies their hardwire units from the factory with the whip (flex cable with wires) and connectors, so those units are quite easy to connect to an electrical box: knock out a knockout, connect the wires, done.
Grizzl-E does not supply a hardwire version, though I asked for mine to be configured that way. You need to open the unit and remove the power cord (e.g., 14-50) that comes with the unit. The hole that is left in the bottom of the unit is larger than a 3/4” conduit connector, requiring a pair of reducing washers. The inside of the box lacks clearance for a standard reducing washer, so I used a machine bushing on the inside in place of the reducing washer. Other than that, it’s just how ever many feet of flexible conduit to connect the EVSE to the electrical box, conduit connectors for both ends, conduit straps, and wire (I used 2 x 8 gauge and 1 x 10 gauge). Total cost for the whip was about $35 for a five foot run.
Another note is that Grizzl-E uses crimp on terminals on their wiring harnesses. They are the type that are used in marine and car audio installs.
I was a lot more work than I anticipated, and I’m very satisfied with the result and with the unit. Upgrading from a 16 amp charger to a 40 amp charger makes quite a difference in charge time.