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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I‘ve just completed installing my new Grizzl-E EVSE as a hardwired install. It was a bit harder than I anticipated, so I thought I’d share my experience.

My previous EVSE was a ClipperCreek unit which was hardwired. I had an electrician install a 50 amp circuit that terminated in an electrical box. ClipperCreek supplies their hardwire units from the factory with the whip (flex cable with wires) and connectors, so those units are quite easy to connect to an electrical box: knock out a knockout, connect the wires, done.

Grizzl-E does not supply a hardwire version, though I asked for mine to be configured that way. You need to open the unit and remove the power cord (e.g., 14-50) that comes with the unit. The hole that is left in the bottom of the unit is larger than a 3/4” conduit connector, requiring a pair of reducing washers. The inside of the box lacks clearance for a standard reducing washer, so I used a machine bushing on the inside in place of the reducing washer. Other than that, it’s just how ever many feet of flexible conduit to connect the EVSE to the electrical box, conduit connectors for both ends, conduit straps, and wire (I used 2 x 8 gauge and 1 x 10 gauge). Total cost for the whip was about $35 for a five foot run.

Another note is that Grizzl-E uses crimp on terminals on their wiring harnesses. They are the type that are used in marine and car audio installs.


I was a lot more work than I anticipated, and I’m very satisfied with the result and with the unit. Upgrading from a 16 amp charger to a 40 amp charger makes quite a difference in charge time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Any reason for not just going with the plug? Is this outside? I have the Grizzl-E too and have been very happy with it.
I generally like hardwire installs for being less expensive and having fewer failure points. It‘s also a bit easier to hardwire an outside install vs socketed.

I really think Grizl-E should offer a hardwire option, like ClipperCreek does.
 

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I generally like hardwire installs for being less expensive and having fewer failure points. It‘s also a bit easier to hardwire an outside install vs socketed.

I really think Grizl-E should offer a hardwire option, like ClipperCreek does.
You can hardwire the Grizzl-E, just take the plug off and hardware it in.
 
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Did you even read the first post?
Likely - but since I filter on new posts only, might have missed/forgotten it. 🤣🤷‍♂️😂
 

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I just installed my Grizzl-e too, it is pretty great. Be careful, I have 8-gauge THHN and romex wires as well (and a 40amp breaker), which are usually rated for 40 amps maximum load. I'm not electrician, but I have read that the wires are supposed to be loaded at 80% capacity only for continuous use, so 8-gauge can only do 32 amps sustained load (like charging a vehicle for many hours). I have set my Grizzl-e to 32-amp setting (dip switches), and even at that the wires and switches are lukewarm during charging. If I am wrong, great so maybe I can run it at 40 amp too then?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I just installed my Grizzl-e too, it is pretty great. Be careful, I have 8-gauge THHN and romex wires as well (and a 40amp breaker), which are usually rated for 40 amps maximum load. I'm not electrician, but I have read that the wires are supposed to be loaded at 80% capacity only for continuous use, so 8-gauge can only do 32 amps sustained load (like charging a vehicle for many hours). I have set my Grizzl-e to 32-amp setting (dip switches), and even at that the wires and switches are lukewarm during charging. If I am wrong, great so maybe I can run it at 40 amp too then?
The power wires in the NEMA connector are #8. THHN is rated at 55 amps, so 44 amps continuous.

Romex is rated for less amperage than THHN.

Of course, long runs have lower limits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I can’t find a 4 awg terminal conecter that can fit this box !
4 AWG?

I bought some UL rated 8 AWG copper terminals that were a bit wide, and I ground off a bit of material to make them fit. That‘s another thing I don’t like about this unit: the non-NA standard power block. Those “SC” terminals are not available anywhere in a UL version that I could find, and I don’t want to run 40 amps through a thin, non-UL terminal.
 

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I am adding on to this post for anyone else that wants to hardwire a Grizzl-E. My installation was indoors and would not work outdoors. I wired mine with 6/2 NM-B (Romex) cable with a ground wire. 6 gauge is required for the cable, because it has a lower amperage rating than THHN wire for the same gauge. I used a 1" NM style connector in the opening. About like Nigela, I was not able to find the crimp fittings described in the manual. I ended up going with copper offset mechanical lugs (Gardner Bender GSLU-35). These fit without modification, but the downside is that the copper connection extends past the plastic terminal block dividers. I still need to add some shrink wrap or electrical tape between the lugs. I am happy with the results, but it seems like hardwiring of the product was an afterthought.

A second observation is that the torque on the charging cable fasteners was inconsistent. One seemed to be torqued tightly and the others seemed loose. There did not seem to be consistency/quality in how they tightened those. The reason I checked these was to calibrate my feel for how to tighten the supply connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I am adding on to this post for anyone else that wants to hardwire a Grizzl-E. My installation was indoors and would not work outdoors. I wired mine with 6/2 NM-B (Romex) cable with a ground wire. 6 gauge is required for the cable, because it has a lower amperage rating than THHN wire for the same gauge. I used a 1" NM style connector in the opening. About like Nigela, I was not able to find the crimp fittings described in the manual. I ended up going with copper offset mechanical lugs (Gardner Bender GSLU-35). These fit without modification, but the downside is that the copper connection extends past the plastic terminal block dividers. I still need to add some shrink wrap or electrical tape between the lugs. I am happy with the results, but it seems like hardwiring of the product was an afterthought.

A second observation is that the torque on the charging cable fasteners was inconsistent. One seemed to be torqued tightly and the others seemed loose. There did not seem to be consistency/quality in how they tightened those. The reason I checked these was to calibrate my feel for how to tighten the supply connectors.
Good find on the lugs. I agree that hardwire is an afterthought with this unit.

Speaking of the torque on the charging cable fasteners, that’s good that you checked. My first unit caught fire at the charging cable power block, one of the terminals was either loose or cross threaded.
 

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Good find on the lugs. I agree that hardwire is an afterthought with this unit.

Speaking of the torque on the charging cable fasteners, that’s good that you checked. My first unit caught fire at the charging cable power block, one of the terminals was either loose or cross threaded.

Having one catch on fire is pretty scary. I suppose if my garage burned down, it may get blamed on the car.
 

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The other thing is that NEC code only allows for a 1' pigtail for your plug, a 25' limit for your charging cable and the GFCI requirement for the circuit. By hardwiring it, you officially turn the receptacle into an outlet, which does not require GFCI and allows you up to a 5' whip for our EVSE, you can now move your EVSE closer to where your plug is on your car(s).
 
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