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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello! We've had our ID.4 for a few months and it's been charging fine - Level 1 at home. Now it's flashing white, then red and won't charge. What should we do?? My husband just went to EVGo so that I can drive where I need to and it charged fine there.
 

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Happy owner of a blue ID.4 First Edition
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I would muck around with these variations:
  • plug into another outlet
  • plug into the outlet first, then car
  • plug into car first, then outlet
  • check the EVSE on another car for proper function
  • charge with another EVSE and verify proper function of car and outlet
I have not had your issue, but something is obviously misfiring and it isn't clear what exactly, hence the checks to isolate the issue.
 

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Yeah, you've got to investigate further like Christoph suggests. Have you checked the LEDs on the EVSE to see if it indicates "charging" or an error?

Charging on DC bypasses the cars internal AC charger, so a successful session at EVGo is no indication all is well. Find another L1 or L2 unit to plug in to (a public one is fine).
 

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id.4 White FE
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Hello! We've had our ID.4 for a few months and it's been charging fine - Level 1 at home. Now it's flashing white, then red and won't charge. What should we do?? My husband just went to EVGo so that I can drive where I need to and it charged fine there.
Check your “Locations” tab in the Charging section on infoScreen. I was having the same problem after inputting my home location so that I could schedule the charge to start and end during reduced electric rate period at night. After deleting that as someone else had discovered in these discussions, I can plug in and start charging immediately and up to the limit that I’ve set. The only thing is I have to remember to manually plug it in now at 9pm when reduced rates begin.
 

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Then again, L1 charging as discussed here is such a low draw (comparatively speaking) that I would not worry much about when to start, even at my high peak rate of 63¢/kWh. The bulk of the charge would happen during low rate anyway.
 

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Then again, L1 charging as discussed here is such a low draw (comparatively speaking) that I would not worry much about when to start, even at my high peak rate of 63¢/kWh. The bulk of the charge would happen during low rate anyway.
That's a salient point!

10 amp L1 = 41¢ per hour peak where I live.

Compared to $3.45 / hr peak, $1.53 / hr off-peak when I'm level 2 charging at 40 amps.

My rates are 16¢ / kWh & 36¢ / kWh, off peak and peak.

So in other words it would cost me about 70¢ extra to plug in the L1 at 9 pm instead of waiting until midnight. Not nothing, but also not a huge hit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you for this! I was able to plug into a public L2 charger and it was fine. The issue resolved itself and I don't really know what happened. I turned the charging back to "reduced" which I had recently turned off, so maybe it had something to do with that?? Our house is from 1908 and the detached garage is old too, so maybe our delicate wiring needs the "reduced" setting. We plan to get it looked at before winter to install a L2, but frankly I'm scared to know the upgrades we're going to need to make once we get an electrician out here.
 

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Our house is from 1908 and the detached garage is old too, so maybe our delicate wiring needs the "reduced" setting. We plan to get it looked at before winter to install a L2, but frankly I'm scared to know the upgrades we're going to need to make once we get an electrician out here.
Oh yeah, been there. Ours is 1920 and I've recently removed the knob-and-tube, upgraded to 200 amp service. I did much myself, over time, so can't put a pricetag on it, but I'd be in a pickle trying to charge cars with the old wiring.
 

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I turned the charging back to "reduced" which I had recently turned off, so maybe it had something to do with that?? Our house is from 1908 and the detached garage is old too, so maybe our delicate wiring needs the "reduced" setting.
I suspect this is precisely why VW added the reduced charge setting and gave us a 10A unit instead of 12A that would be allowable on a regular 15A circuit. Make it safe for most folks, no matter what.
 
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