[mzzyhmd]

This is my third time charging with the level 1 charger but for some reason, I am running into some issues.

I feel like it should only have the first light on or blinking when charging at home, right? Mine shows the first two lights turned on constant green and the third one keeps blinking.
It keeps charging the vehicle but the vehicle charge light shows white light. Car-net says it's charging and the vehicle internal computer says the same that it's charging but the white light is on around the charging port.

It was charging at 3 MPH speed the moment I put it into a different outlet just to see if the light changes it now charges at 1 MPH speed. I am not sure what did I do wrong I can't get back the previous speed for some reason.

Then under the vehicle screen, it shows emergency charging only available. What is that?

Also, the climate control won't turn on when it's plugged in.

Is it the charger? What lights normally should turn on when it's charging properly with the included charger and how should the car behave based on what I have described. Please help. Or is it the car? Should I just bite the bullet and get a good level 2 charger that can also do Level 1 since I still don't have access to an L2 outlet yet?

 

[EV-Driver]

You've invested in a car that has a 77 kW battery. IMHO, you should now invest in a level 2 charging station. A decent home charging station will give you 25-30 miles per hour and you can plug in and forget it.

I had a Chevy Bolt before the ID.4 and for awhile, I had to use the 110 V charge cord while I was renting. I consider that charge cord as an emergency only necessary item. I drove 195 miles to my brother's house. It took the whole time I was there to recharge the 60 kW battery, over two days!

 

[Spin]

I would call VW Customer Care. 800-822-8987. They will probably advise you to make an appointment at the dealer and have them check it out.

 

[Nai3t]

...under the vehicle screen, it shows emergency charging only available. What is that?

That's going to indicate a vehicle or connection problem, but not an issue with EVSE.

The EVSE is capable of stopping the charge if it detects a fault, but it's not capable of advertising a lower current, or of telling the vehicle to enter "emergency charging" mode.

So I'd back up, drive the car, plug in to the original receptacle, and diagnose your problems one at a time.

White light? Do you have the charge timer or location set? If so, delete them.

3 MPH accumulation? That's normal for the stock EVSE when plugged in to 120 volts.

When you changed to the different receptacle, did you stop the charging process first, it just unplug? It's possible unplugging during a charging session causes an error and enters emergency mode.

 

[mzzyhmd]

Update: just visited a DCFC and charging went just fine. So to unplug charge you should “stop” the session from infotainment screen first? I did not know that. I still don’t know why the white light was on although the car was charging just fine and what those indicator lights mean. Those lights just scared me I guess.


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[Nai3t]

Keep in mind that DCVC vs. L1/L2 charging are completely different animals. Plugging in at home, the EVSE has one-way communication with the BMS, the ID.4's onboard charger controls the AC current, converts it to DC, and charges the battery. With DCFC, the ID.4s BMS has bi-directional communication with the charging stand, and the stand (not the car) controls the current. The car is obviously still in control of the power distribution, but the process is different.

You can stop charging four different ways. Selecting Stop Charging on the center screen is one. This can also be accomplished through the Car Net app. Pressing the unlock on the keyfob is another. Technically, pressing the button on the charging handle indicates to stop charging, but that button can be locked out by the car, and is typically unlocked when the FOB unlock button is pressed. If your EVSE has a stop charging button, that'll work. The Stop button the the DCFC screen will also do the trick.

 

[mzzyhmd]

Keep in mind that DCVC vs. L1/L2 charging are completely different animals. Plugging in at home, the EVSE has one-way communication with the BMS, the ID.4's onboard charger controls the AC current, converts it to DC, and charges the battery. With DCFC, the ID.4s BMS has bi-directional communication with the charging stand, and the stand (not the car) controls the current. The car is obviously still in control of the power distribution, but the process is different.

You can stop charging four different ways. Selecting Stop Charging on the center screen is one. This can also be accomplished through the Car Net app. Pressing the unlock on the keyfob is another. Technically, pressing the button on the charging handle indicates to stop charging, but that button can be locked out by the car, and is typically unlocked when the FOB unlock button is pressed. If your EVSE has a stop charging button, that'll work. The Stop button the the DCFC screen will also do the trick.

Yeah understood.

Someone had similar error message when tried to charge with bunch of different EVSE and it was fault of the port they had to get it replaced, I’m assuming if it was something about similar I’d encounter the same error when doing DCFC. I didnt. I ordered another L1 charger off Amazon will try this one over the OEM charger and see how that goes.


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[Nai3t]

Someone had similar error message when tried to charge with bunch of different EVSE and it was fault of the port they changed something I’m assuming if it was something similar I’d encounter the same error when doing DCFC. I didnt. I ordered another L1 charger off Amazon will try this one over the OEM charger and see how that goes.

If you're going to order a new L1 EVSE I highly recommend the Duosida 16 amp, if you have a 20 amp circuit to plug it in to. At 120, it'll improve the charging rate by 60% over stock. A simple 20A 240 volt circuit can be wired up on almost any panel with a minimum of fuss to better then double the L1 16A rate of charge. It's been my daily charger on my i3 for the past year and a half.

 

[mzzyhmd]

If you're going to order a new L1 EVSE I highly recommend the Duosida 16 amp, if you have a 20 amp circuit to plug it in to. At 120, it'll improve the charging rate by 60% over stock. A simple 20A 240 volt circuit can be wired up on almost any panel with a minimum of fuss to better then double the L1 16A rate of charge. It's been my daily charger on my i3 for the past year and a half.

So I buy one of these

[4-in-1] 15 Amp Household AC Plug to 20 Amp T Blade Adapter,5-15P to 5-20R,5-15P to 6-15R,5-15P to 6-20R, 4 in 1 AC Power Adapter,15A 125V to 20A 250V Adapter [4-in-1] 15 Amp Household AC Plug to 20 Amp T Blade Adapter, 5-15P to 5-20R, 5-15P to 6-15R, 5-15P to 6-20R, 4 in 1 AC Power Adapter, 15A 125V to 20A 250V Adapter - - Amazon.com

And this?

EV + Duosida Level 2 EVSE Portable Electric Vehicle Charger 16A Cable Home Charging Station SAE J1772 Connector 25Ft Cord NEMA 6-20 w/Case Amazon.com: EV + Duosida Level 2 EVSE Portable Electric Vehicle Charger 16A Cable Home Charging Station SAE J1772 Connector 25Ft Cord NEMA 6-20 w/Case: Automotive

I live in an apartment for 2-3 more months so I’m using their regular outlet that’s with the vending machine.

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[Nai3t]

So I buy one of these

[4-in-1] 15 Amp Household AC Plug to 20 Amp T Blade Adapter,5-15P to 5-20R,5-15P to 6-15R,5-15P to 6-20R, 4 in 1 AC Power Adapter,15A 125V to 20A 250V Adapter [4-in-1] 15 Amp Household AC Plug to 20 Amp T Blade Adapter, 5-15P to 5-20R, 5-15P to 6-15R, 5-15P to 6-20R, 4 in 1 AC Power Adapter, 15A 125V to 20A 250V Adapter - - Amazon.com

And this?

EV + Duosida Level 2 EVSE Portable Electric Vehicle Charger 16A Cable Home Charging Station SAE J1772 Connector 25Ft Cord NEMA 6-20 w/Case Amazon.com: EV + Duosida Level 2 EVSE Portable Electric Vehicle Charger 16A Cable Home Charging Station SAE J1772 Connector 25Ft Cord NEMA 6-20 w/Case: Automotive

I live in an apartment for 2-3 more months so I’m using their regular outlet that’s with the vending machine.

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I think that's the same EVSE, I bought mine from BSA electronics. It plugs in to:

Amazon.com

...which I installed on:

Southwire 2588SW0002 Outdoor Cord-12/3 SJTW Heavy Duty 3 Prong Extension Cord-for Commercial Use (50', Yellow), 50 Feet - - Amazon.com

Southwire 2588SW0002 Outdoor Cord-12/3 SJTW Heavy Duty 3 Prong Extension Cord-for Commercial Use (50', Yellow), 50 Feet - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

And that's my daily L1 setup.

If I need to plug in to my 240 volt receptacle at home, I carry these additional two items that convert the male end of the extension cord back to a 6-20P.

Legrand - Pass & Seymour PS5466SSANCC4 Straight Blade Angled Plug Three Wire 20-Amp 250-volt Easy Install, Black - Electric Plugs - Amazon.com

Legrand - Pass & Seymour PS5466SSANCC4 Straight Blade Angled Plug Three Wire 20-Amp 250-volt Easy Install, Black - Electric Plugs - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com

 

[mzzyhmd]

I think that's the same EVSE, I bought mine from BSA electronics. It plugs in to:

Amazon.com

...which I installed on:

Southwire 2588SW0002 Outdoor Cord-12/3 SJTW Heavy Duty 3 Prong Extension Cord-for Commercial Use (50', Yellow), 50 Feet - - Amazon.com

Southwire 2588SW0002 Outdoor Cord-12/3 SJTW Heavy Duty 3 Prong Extension Cord-for Commercial Use (50', Yellow), 50 Feet - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

And that's my daily L1 setup.

If I need to plug in to my 240 volt receptacle at home, I carry these additional two items that convert the male end of the extension cord back to a 6-20P.

Legrand - Pass & Seymour PS5466SSANCC4 Straight Blade Angled Plug Three Wire 20-Amp 250-volt Easy Install, Black - Electric Plugs - Amazon.com

Legrand - Pass & Seymour PS5466SSANCC4 Straight Blade Angled Plug Three Wire 20-Amp 250-volt Easy Install, Black - Electric Plugs - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com

So let me get this right I can plug into a regular outlet first then I use a converter to convert one end of the extension cord to Nema 6-20 and I get 60 percent faster charging? If that’s true I’d be so happy


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[Nai3t]

Yes.

It appears the Duosida you linked to comes with a 6-20P that natively plugs into a 240 volt receptacle. (When I bought mine from BSA, I was able to spec exactly what connections I wanted.)

If the Duosida only gets power to one hot leg, it works just like a normal L1 EVSE, 120 volts.

If it gets power to both legs (what would otherwise be the neutral leg), it acts as a L2 EVSE, 240 volts.

So ignoring the connections for a moment, here's what I measured and wrote about in this thread: ID.4 vs. i3 Level 1 Charging Efficiencies, Not What I...

stock VW 10A = 12.5% over 8 hours
Duosida 16A / L1 = 19.5% over 8 hours
Duosida 16A / L2 = 48% over 8 hours

You can see that not only does L2 double the charging rate due to doubling of the voltage, but it does better than 2x as the higher voltage is handled my efficiently by the inverter.

So it's really just a matter of where in line you want to put your adapters. With the Duosida, the wiring requirement is the single hot leg is matched to the hot leg (skinny prong) of a conventional 120 volt plug. The fat prong can serve as either a neutral or a 2nd hot.

You can order this Duosida with a standard 5-15P or 5-20P if you only plan on using it with 120 volts. It'll be wired up just like the VW stock EVSE, and you can always add a 6-20P pigtail adapter (last two items on my shopping list -- orange cord & plug) at the end of the line.

 

[mzzyhmd]

Yes.

It appears the Duosida you linked to comes with a 6-20P that natively plugs into a 240 volt receptacle. (When I bought mine from BSA, I was able to spec exactly what connections I wanted.)

If the Duosida only gets power to one hot leg, it works just like a normal L1 EVSE, 120 volts.

If it gets power to both legs (what would otherwise be the neutral leg), it acts as a L2 EVSE, 240 volts.

So ignoring the connections for a moment, here's what I measured and wrote about in this thread: ID.4 vs. i3 Level 1 Charging Efficiencies, Not What I...

stock VW 10A = 12.5% over 8 hours
Duosida 16A / L1 = 19.5% over 8 hours
Duosida 16A / L2 = 48% over 8 hours

You can see that not only does L2 double the charging rate due to doubling of the voltage, but it does better than 2x as the higher voltage is handled my efficiently by the inverter.

So it's really just a matter of where in line you want to put your adapters. With the Duosida, the wiring requirement is the single hot leg is matched to the hot leg (skinny prong) of a conventional 120 volt plug. The fat prong can serve as either a neutral or a 2nd hot.

You can order this Duosida with a standard 5-15P or 5-20P if you only plan on using it with 120 volts. It'll be wired up just like the VW stock EVSE, and you can always add a 6-20P adapter at the end of the line.

Honestly I have no idea what any of these means. Haha I just wanna charge a bit faster using a L1 charger and not sure how to do that. I don’t have access to a 240v outlet to get l2 charging yet.


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[Nai3t]

Honestly I have no idea what any of these means. Haha I just wanna charge a bit faster using a L1 charger and not sure how to do that. I don’t have access to a 240v outlet to get l2 charging yet.


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Ok, so easy, order the Duosida like this:

Dostar Duosida 16A 3.84kW Portable Charging Station - EVSE D25-16A

No Coupon Needed Sale! I'm adding the best coupon value directly to the prices shown here! Shown with optional travel case, these are a new item and great way to protect your new Duosida EVSE!, add to cart here: https://tinyurl.com/bsacarrycase 16A 3.84kW Portable Electric Vehicle Charging...

www.bsaelectronics.com

It'll do exactly what your asking for, no adapters.

 

[mzzyhmd]

It says on the description it only plugs into a 6-20 240v outlet I don’t have access to I only have access to regular wall outlet

“Note for the NEMA 5-15 (120v 15amp) plug: a dedicated 20amp circuit with no other item plugged into it is required OR you must lower the charge current to 12amps via your Electric Vehicle's controls (not all EV's have this ability). Note some EV models like the GM-Volt with a 3.3kW on-board charger won't go over 12amps in it's menu so it is fine. Duosida EVSE D25-16A is a non-adjustable 16amp unit and requires a 20amp minimum circuit.”

This is what their website says


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[Nai3t]

The plug type selection gives you a few choices.

The stock EVSE comes with 6-20, and plugs in to a 240 volt receptacle.

What I linked to is a 5-15 90° and plugs into a standard wall outlet. You are responsible for ensuring it is a 20 amp circuit. If you select Reduced AC Current in the ID.4, you'll get stepped all the way down to 8 amps.

I prefer the 90° plug option because the cord exits straight down and doesn't tug the plug out of the receptacle. The problem with a 90° plug is some receptacles are installed with the ground up, and others with the ground down (as shown below), and 90° plugs are only going to hang as intended on one or the other.

You can alternately select a 5-15 standard plug or a 5-20 standard plug. The 5-20 plugs in to a 120 outlet with the 'T' blade slot, as pictured.

 

[mzzyhmd]

The plug type selection gives you a few choices.

The stock EVSE comes with 6-20, and plugs in to a 240 volt receptacle.

What I linked to is a 5-15 90° and plugs into a standard wall outlet. You are responsible for ensuring it is a 20 amp circuit. If you select Reduced AC Current in the ID.4, you'll get stepped all the way down to 8 amps.

I prefer the 90° plug option because the cord exits straight down and doesn't tug the plug out of the receptacle. The problem with a 90° plug is some receptacles are installed with the ground up, and others with the ground down (as shown below), and 90° plugs are only going to hang as intended on one or the other.

You can alternately select a 5-15 standard plug or a 5-20 standard plug. The 5-20 plugs in to a 120 outlet with the 'T' blade slot, as pictured.

View attachment 4855

Yes, mine doesn't look like this T shaped. So I don't think it can handle 20 AMP draw

 

[Nai3t]

Yes, mine doesn't look like this T shaped. So I don't think it can handle 20 AMP draw

Check your breaker. NEC allows a 15 amp receptacle to be installed on a 20 amp circuit, so you can't tell just by looking at what's visible.

Code also has (for a while) required the garage be served by a 20 amp circuit, so it's a good chance you've got the right wiring in place.

If it's indeed 20 amps, it's just a matter or switching out the receptacle for one rated for 20 amps. You'll also want to be sure that when you're charging your EV, it is the only load on that circuit. i.e. don't run your table saw or treadmill!

 

[mzzyhmd]

Check your breaker. NEC allows a 15 amp receptacle to be installed on a 20 amp circuit, so you can't tell just by looking at what's visible.

Code also has (for a while) required the garage be served by a 20 amp circuit, so it's a good chance you've got the right wiring in place.

If it's indeed 20 amps, it's just a matter or switching out the receptacle for one rated for 20 amps. You'll also want to be sure that when you're charging your EV, it is the only load on that circuit. i.e. don't run your table saw or treadmill!

So I have access to two outlets. One is already handling a vending machine so I think that's a no-go but that might as well be a 20 AMP circuit since it can handle a vending machine.
And the other one is covered around the leasing office so I am assuming you don't put an outlet on the exterior for running simple electric machine. So I can assume it can handle 20 AMP draw but i dont know where the breaker is for either of these so i could check. i will check tomorrow with the office.

 

[Nai3t]

If it's a vending machine for candy / chips I'll go out on a limb and say it'll probably be ok, those are low draw. If it's a soda machine with a refrigerator or a coffee machine that heats water, I'd avoid it.

These are the reasons EVs are coming with low amperage EVSEs in the US. Our line voltage is subject to a lot of uncertainty, and 8 or 10 amps is a safe bet that we won't burn down the house. Upgrading to an aftermarket 16 amp unit puts the onus on the buyer to make sure the wiring is in proper order. Definitely check with building maintenance to get a look at that breaker and determine if the circuit is up to the task.