[S.holzhauer]

Aloha all. I have the 2021 1st edition. Love the car and most of its features. The massage function is too weak and I’d rather that money would have went to a bin under center console where we could put umbrella or purses etc.

Anyways I am living in a rental so don’t want to actually get a 220v outlet put into the garage because I won’t live here long enough. However I’m wanting to purchase a Nema 14-50 level 2 charger that I can run from dryer outlet. I need it to be 50ft long. Any suggestions?

 

[Huey52]

You can run some of the popular EVSE's from a dryer outlet, but of course in its setup you will have to throttle back its amperage thruput to 24A as most dryers are only 30A breakers with respective lower amperage rated wiring.

I've moved this thread to the appropriate area where you'll find much insightful discussion.

ChargePoint Flex data, which alas can't be plug-in for a 30A circuit:

 

[hilld]

Aloha all. I have the 2021 1st edition. Love the car and most of its features. The massage function is too weak and I’d rather that money would have went to a bin under center console where we could put umbrella or purses etc.

Anyways I am living in a rental so don’t want to actually get a 220v outlet put into the garage because I won’t live here long enough. However I’m wanting to purchase a Nema 14-50 level 2 charger that I can run from dryer outlet. I need it to be 50ft long. Any suggestions?

There is a limit of 25' on the cords, not sure if that is an NEC thing or not, but I have been told this by several Level 2 Mfg's. You might be out of luck on the 50' unless you make an extension cord of sorts. If you do, I would suggest you use SOOW cord in sufficient gauge for the amperage and length to make sure you don't have a voltage drop.

As far as Level 2 chargers, I use the Grizzl-E smart chargers (I have 2 of them in different houses). Mine are Nema 6-50 (I use my 6-50 welder receptacles I installed years ago), but they also have a Nema 14-50 version. On the Grizzl-E chargers, you set the maximum amperage via dip switches inside of the charger, that way it won't try to pull more amps than the breaker is rated for.

Hope that helps.

 

[S.holzhauer]

There is a limit of 25' on the cords, not sure if that is an NEC thing or not, but I have been told this by several Level 2 Mfg's. You might be out of luck on the 50' unless you make an extension cord of sorts. If you do, I would suggest you use SOOW cord in sufficient gauge for the amperage and length to make sure you don't have a voltage drop.

As far as Level 2 chargers, I use the Grizzl-E smart chargers (I have 2 of them in different houses). Mine are Nema 6-50 (I use my 6-50 welder receptacles I installed years ago), but they also have a Nema 14-50 version. On the Grizzl-E chargers, you set the maximum amperage via dip switches inside of the charger, that way it won't try to pull more amps than the breaker is rated for.

Hope that helps.

That helps a lot thank you. Looks like I’ll be doing more research today for appropriate extension cords and a charger that I can control amps in.

 

[S.holzhauer]

There is a limit of 25' on the cords, not sure if that is an NEC thing or not, but I have been told this by several Level 2 Mfg's. You might be out of luck on the 50' unless you make an extension cord of sorts. If you do, I would suggest you use SOOW cord in sufficient gauge for the amperage and length to make sure you don't have a voltage drop.

As far as Level 2 chargers, I use the Grizzl-E smart chargers (I have 2 of them in different houses). Mine are Nema 6-50 (I use my 6-50 welder receptacles I installed years ago), but they also have a Nema 14-50 version. On the Grizzl-E chargers, you set the maximum amperage via dip switches inside of the charger, that way it won't try to pull more amps than the breaker is rated for.

Hope that helps.

Thank you. Sorry for putting in wrong thread. First time commenter so please don’t take any demerits yet 😀. Thank you for the info.

 

[hilld]

One thing I forgot to mention, check with your local power company to see if they have rebate on Level 2 chargers. If they do, they generally have a list of approved chargers (This might limit your list of choices). My Level 2 chargers cost $539, but with a $500 rebate from the power company, my net cost was $39. (not counting installing an outlet for them to plug in -- which I already had).

 

[Huey52]

This is a popular "travel" L2 charger that may be used at home as well:

Amazon.com

 

[alpard78]

I have the ChargePoint Home Flex, NEMA 14-50 Plug. It works great.
I decided to install it with a plug in case I need to change it or move I don't have to pay again for installation.

 

[Dipampatel]

When I purchased my Nissan Leaf three years ago, I installed the Siemens VersiCharge. I got a great deal from Home Depot and was able to pull the 240v feed from the Dryer outlet in my Laundry Room. I have been very happy with this charger. Hopefully it will work with the ID.4 AWD when I finally receive it

 

[Nai3t]

I decided to install it with a plug in case I need to change it or move I don't have to pay again for installation.

My intention isn't too scare anybody with this comment, but just to note...

... the downside of plugs is they're a point of failure. Search EVSE plug melted and you'll find it happens, it's a point of electrical resistance, not crazy common but it is what it is.

... the downside of hardwired isn't that big a deal if the EVSE isn't going to be routinely unplugged. Disconnecting and making safe a hardwired circuit is DIY easy, and reinstalling it is only moderately more complicated. An electrician would probably charge base rate for either service, assuming no other prep was required (for install at the new house).

 

[TPG]

My intention isn't too scare anybody with this comment, but just to note...

... the downside of plugs is they're a point of failure. Search EVSE plug melted and you'll find it happens, it's a point of electrical resistance, not crazy common but it is what it is.

Indeed this happens! I found that the plug on one of my EVSEs was overly warm and the plastic was becoming soft when in use and charging at only 24A. One of the plug prongs had oxidized and was not making good contact with the socket. I ended up replacing the wall socket and sanding down the plug. Now all is cool.

 

[alpard78]

My intention isn't too scare anybody with this comment, but just to note...

... the downside of plugs is they're a point of failure. Search EVSE plug melted and you'll find it happens, it's a point of electrical resistance, not crazy common but it is what it is.

... the downside of hardwired isn't that big a deal if the EVSE isn't going to be routinely unplugged. Disconnecting and making safe a hardwired circuit is DIY easy, and reinstalling it is only moderately more complicated. An electrician would probably charge base rate for either service, assuming no other prep was required (for install at the new house).

I am aware of the risk, but I limited my charger to 40A instead of 50A through the Chargepoint app.
The charging has consistently been 7.8kWh which means about 32.5A which is 35% below the 50A rate of the breaker and the connector itself (NEMA 14-50).
I believe all of your comments, but I would wonder why Chargepoint would sell that option if the failure rate was a real problem (along with lawsuits and whatnot).
I'll look more into the melted plugs and see what they are doing that caused this problem...

 

[Huey52]

As did I, but the OP has a 30A dryer circuit/socket.

I have the ChargePoint Home Flex, NEMA 14-50 Plug. It works great.
I decided to install it with a plug in case I need to change it or move I don't have to pay again for installation.

 

[alpard78]

Indeed this happens! I found that the plug on one of my EVSEs was overly warm and the plastic was becoming soft when in use and charging at only 24A. One of the plug prongs had oxidized and was not making good contact with the socket. I ended up replacing the wall socket and sanding down the plug. Now all is cool.

Mmm, now I'm getting scared! hahah.
I will check my plug routinely while charging. If I start feeling it overly warm I will definitely hardwire that thing.
Thanks!

 

[Huey52]

I typically would agree as it's always better to minimize points of failure. But ultimately I too went for ease of replacement as I have no prior track record with the quality of EVSE's.
That and as I went 6-50 I can more easily plug in a 220V welder or bandsaw, on rare occasion.

My intention isn't too scare anybody with this comment, but just to note...

... the downside of plugs is they're a point of failure. Search EVSE plug melted and you'll find it happens, it's a point of electrical resistance, not crazy common but it is what it is.

... the downside of hardwired isn't that big a deal if the EVSE isn't going to be routinely unplugged. Disconnecting and making safe a hardwired circuit is DIY easy, and reinstalling it is only moderately more complicated. An electrician would probably charge base rate for either service, assuming no other prep was required (for install at the new house).

 

[alpard78]

As did I, but the OP has a 30A dryer circuit/socket.

My circuit allows up to 200A, the breaker for the charger is 50A and the connector is a NEMA 14-50 also for 50A. I will definitely monitor the plug closely. I don't want a failure/fire due to my own negligence... Thanks for the heads up!

 

[Huey52]

Your panel capacity is 200A, aka "200 amp service."
As you have a 50A breaker-pair you can go 40A thruput, as did I. You don't really need to monitor as you're within spec.
I was rather commenting that the Original Poster (OP, S.holzhauer) only has a typical 30A dryer circuit/socket so he must go with a lower thruput setting.

My circuit allows up to 200A, the breaker for the charger is 50A and the connector is a NEMA 14-50 also for 50A. I will definitely monitor the plug closely. I don't want a failure/fire due to my own negligence... Thanks for the heads up!

 

[Nai3t]

I am aware of the risk, ...

I would wonder why Chargepoint would sell that option if the failure rate was a real problem (along with lawsuits and whatnot).

I wouldn't call it a "risk," just a potential point of failure. Properly installed, an electrical box is designed to prevent this from becoming anything more than an inconvenience and repair.

It's all designed and hopefully installed per code, so there's no great risk of lawsuits. But code can't account for oxidation of plugs and receptacle, humid environments, nor lessening of spring force inside a receptacle after repeated unpluggings and heat cycles.

Again, not trying to scare anyone. Your house will not burn down. Probably.

 

[TPG]

Mmm, now I'm getting scared! hahah.
I will check my plug routinely while charging. If I start feeling it overly warm I will definitely hardwire that thing.
Thanks!

My issue was likely caused by the 35 year old wall outlet that had a loose connection to the plug. I expect its replacement to be good for more than 35 years because I do not unplug the EVSE more than a few times a year.

 

[kens98]

Here is what we use. Total is only 41 feet though with the extension cord. It includes all of the adapters for the different type of connections.

Amazon.com: MAX GREEN Upgraded Version Level 1&Level 2 EV Charger, Portable Electric Vehicle Charger (16A,100-240V 25FT) Fast EV Home Charging Station,Five Adapters Included : Automotive

Buy MAX GREEN Upgraded Version Level 1&Level 2 EV Charger, Portable Electric Vehicle Charger (16A,100-240V 25FT) Fast EV Home Charging Station,Five Adapters Included: Charging Stations - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Here is the extension cord that I added:

Parkworld 885767 NEMA 6-20 Extension Cord 6-20P to 6-20R (T Blade Female Also for 6-15R Adapter) 250V, 20A, 5000W (16FT) - - Amazon.com

Parkworld 885767 NEMA 6-20 Extension Cord 6-20P to 6-20R (T Blade Female Also for 6-15R Adapter) 250V, 20A, 5000W (16FT) - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com