Level 2 home EVSE? [Clipper Creek?]
-
Add Yours: VW ID. Buzz Owner's Registry
41 - 60 of 86 Posts
Joined
·
81 Posts
I've had my CC for almost 9 years and love it. It's a dumb one so not too compatible with cars with no timed charging abilities but the ones you're considering have it I believe so go for it.
Joined
·
5 Posts
I've had a Clipper Creek charger since 2013. It's mounted on a post at the end of my driveway and totally exposed to the weather. I have it on a 60 amp breaker and it charges my ID 4 from 10% to 80% in under 5 hours. It still looks and performs like brand new. I am very happy with it and would recommend this brand.
Joined
·
431 Posts
I guess it depends on what you mean by “require cooling”. The ChargePoint Flex and Autel MaxiCharge have rear mounted heat sinks to passively radiate heat out of the unit. I’ve seen a couple reports of the Flex getting hot enough to shut off while charging if the conditions are just right. So these units are pushing the limits of how easily heat can get out enough that the radiator makes sense, especially for 48A.
Units that aren’t as compact like Clipper Creek’s and the JuiceBox I suspect are simply radiating internally, relying on the empty volume to help keep temperatures within the spec’d range. Which is also fine.
As you point out, there shouldn’t be much heat at the EVSE.
Joined
·
2,019 Posts
Realistically, there shouldn't be much of ANY heat inside an EV. The relay (contactor) electromagnets are the only high-powered part and they'll only dissipate several watts to maybe ten watts. And if the supply conductors and the conductors in the J1772 cord are sized appropriately and properly torqued into their lugs, the shouldn't get warm either.
Do some EVSEs use Solid-State Relays rather than electromechanical contactors? I'd avoid any EVSEs that do that! I want the guaranteed isolation of the opened contactor contacts!
Joined
·
431 Posts
If only manufacturers listed what they used. I couldn’t tell you what different units use. The Emporia for example marks RL1 and RL2 on the PCB which control L1 and L2 current flow through to the cable, but since the packaging for them doesn’t show identifying markers on the top, I couldn’t tell you much more about them, other than Emporia seems to have them labeled as relays. Autel’s sits under tape and so I can’t identify it either (see attached screenshot).
I know ClipperCreek is loud enough to be heard 25’ away from the unit, so I’d be floored if it wasn’t a contactor.
I mostly am pointing out what I have seen in practice when it comes to dissipating heat. While ChargePoint and Autel both have ”smart” features, I wouldn’t expect that you need a powerful enough ARM processor to require a heat sink as big as these units are packing. There is clearly some heat from somewhere though, and it’s during charging that you can feel a bit of heat coming off the heat sink with the Autel unit I picked up.
Joined
·
4,397 Posts
This should be inspected under load after 30 minutes at least 1-2 times a year for overheating or high resistance. Including all terminals for loose connections. They have limited number of cycles under load switching.
No, not seals or glue or blocked screws. But I voided the heck out of my warranty so that wasn't really a concern of mine. But Clipper Creek definitely designed their units to be fully serviceable.
Joined
·
4,397 Posts
Is board clear coated to prevent rust and water damage on the board. If it is...then they didn't spare on quality.
Joined
·
431 Posts
Not sure, but the front of the shell is a single piece. The back panel sits inside the front shell and has a gasket between the two plastic pieces, in addition to the plastic being shaped to prevent water from getting in. Even if the rear gasket were to degrade water wouldn’t have a good way in for a while. Not sure about the front which has some light pipes for LEDs, but I’d assume those are treated in a similar manner such that the light pipes are just fixed in place to the front piece and form part of the seal for the front.
The board sits on pegs, away from the front and back shell. Unsurprisingly it is mostly empty space, but as mentioned it looks easy to service.
Joined
·
4,397 Posts
Here is the example of board protected by clear coating picture posted by another member not my picture example.
Attachments
Joined
·
1,284 Posts
I use a Tesla Wall Connector with the J1772 handle. Works great. ID.4 charges at 11 kW every time. Model Y charges at 11.5 kW.
Joined
·
4,397 Posts
Are you using Gen 1 80A EVSE.... i have bought one for my rental property in CA absolute best and quality is top notch.
Joined
·
1,284 Posts
48A generation 3. It’s available on the Tesla web site (or app). It can pair via Wi-Fi with another Gen 3 Tesla Wall adapter for load sharing on the same 60A circuit. The other one can have a NACS handle or a J1772 handle.
Here's the innards of a Clipper Creek unit. Not much going on in there -- but plenty of room to breath. Not sure if this is the coating you're talking about, @VW TECHNICIAN.
![Audio equipment Red Electronic device Gas Automotive lighting]()
Great points... Any knowledge about overall charging efficiency at different rates, as far as electrical consumption? There will be conversion losses of course, which to my understanding are greater at L1 than L2, but probably pretty similar at different L2 Amperages? I think the bigger concern would be in battery management, cabin preheating, etc. at least in the cold. How much extra energy is being used for BMS to charge low and slow compared to faster?
I'm also interested in the relative value of warming up the battery shortly before departure with scheduled charging - This would seem to favor charging at a higher rate for shorter time just before departure. It would also be marginally better for battery health to depart on a warmer battery. Its better for my mental health to depart with a warm butt and hands
I agree that lower level charging will be best for the charging equipment, and that those components are not cheap. Just curious about the overall balance - I'd argue that its rarely worth charging at 48A in the ID.4 unless you have a particular use reason to do so. I'd also assume that you're paying some costs by charging as low as 16A.
I'm currently charging L1, as my new garage isn't built yet. I'll have a 60A capable circuit, wired up to 50A outlet and breaker, for my 40A Juice Booster 2 EVSE - at least at first. That will allow use of a higher power welder, etc on that outlet if I so choose, and ability to upgrade to a hardwired 48A with just a breaker swap. Anyway, I'm currently charging 12A 120V, which is painfully slow and often doesn't cover my daily driving, so have to charge between trips at times too (I'm in and out a lot). I'm just really interested in how to best balance all the factors - battery/charging equipment etc health during charging and subsequent driving, cost of electricity, overall efficiency of charging (sep from cost, more for environmental reasons), and of course convenience - but at this level they're all pretty convenient. Down the road I'll likely install a hardwired unit and use the Booster only for travel/emergency. I can take it to the lake house and charge there off a welder outlet in the garage, or use the 120v attachment for L1 charging, since my 2023 didn't come with a L1.
In winter, yes, but in summer, slower and cooler is better. I'd like VW to give us user-selectable charging amperage in the menu like what BMW is doing with their current offerings.
Do you mean dollar-wise, due to the additional ~8% L1 efficiency loss?
41 - 60 of 86 Posts
