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My experience towing a trailer with ID4

20582 Views 28 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  ray.z.mejia
I want to share my trailer towing experience. Recently I pulled a trailer and lawnmower behind my FE. The trailer and mower weighs a total of 2150 pounds. So I was practically at the towing limit. I was the only person in the car. I live in central KY so the ground is slightly rolling but no major grade changes. My destination and departure points where at the same elevation. I left charged to 80 percent. I drove 56 miles round trip. At the end of my trip I was at 45 percent. I averaged 33 mph and my consumption was 2.1 mile per kWh. I was on two lane rural roads. Very light traffic, the temp was 57 degrees through the whole trip. I used the heated seat on medium. I did not run the heat. I am a conservative driver. While pulling the trailer I did not exceed 50 mph. The instant power consumption bar graph on the display in front of the driver never went over 1/2.
So my impressions.
The car will work great for runs to the hardware store and lumber yard. It handled the trailer safely. I drive in B mode always and the regen really stops the combo as easily as it stops the car alone. The car is heavy enough that the trailer doesn’t push it around.
As additional information I drove this exact same route in the exact same manner the day before without the trailer and averaged 4.0 mile per kWh. So effectively the range is cut in half when pulling the loaded trailer.
Summary. I am pleased it did exactly liked I had hoped. The hit on the range is to be expected and would be worse at higher speeds. The car recognized that the trailer was connected and displayed the message when I started it. I feel it is comparable to a ICE small suv with a equivalent tow rating.
I hope this helps those wanting some real world data.
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@Helenabus - Thanks for your comments, they are very similar to my experience with a couple of differences noted below.

I had the opportunity to test pulling my single axle utility trailer with our ID.4 last weekend. My trailer is an enclosed 6x10 feet with 6' 2" inside height. The weight was probably close to 1000 pounds (about half of yours).

My normal trailer puller is my 2018 Atlas V-6 4 motion, a vehicle rated for 2 1/4 times the trailing capacity as the ID.4.

Some specifications:

ItemAtlasID.4
Horsepower (hp)276201
Torque (Nm)266229
Weight (lbs)42224559
GVWR (lbs)59975798
Length (in)198.3180.5
Wheelbase (in)117.3108.9
Width (in)78.372.9
Height (in)70.064.4
Max trailer weight (lbs)50002200

My subjective comparison is that the ID.4 felt noticeably more stable (less wind buffeting, less bouncing on rural roads) with the trailer than my Atlas.

I did not notice the trailer weight when accelerating as much on the ID.4 as on the Atlas. Even with less torque, the ID.4 seems to be willing to just pull when requested.

The Atlas brakes seemed more secure when bringing the trailer down from 40-0mph than did the ID.4 brakes (which seemed to still handle stopping fine). Part of this is probably my newness with the ID.4 (3 weeks) vs 3 years with the Atlas brakes.

Overall, I'm pleased that I won't have to worry about pulling my utility trailer with either of my VWs - whichever is handy will work great!
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Great thanks for the info. I think that the more we can all share about towing the more confidence we will have.
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Good stuff here. In B mode, does it feel like the ID.4 is stepping up the amount of regen to accommodate the extra inertia of the trailer? IOW is it trying to replicate the same amount of regen as when driving without a trailer?
@Nai3t - I am still too ICE based, I didn't want to brave putting the ID in B mode the first time with a trailer - next time when I can run the same loop I will try the two different modes. Hopefully @Helenabus or someone else can weigh in.
It is for sure stepping up the amount of regen. There is a noticeable increase in how far the green bar graph goes over to the left during decel with the trailer.
I would say the “feel” in the rate of decel is the same as it is without the trailer. I am sure that there is more energy going back into the battery then there is when in B without the trailer.
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I think I read that the un-braked towing capacity is 1,500 lbs., and the 2,200 lbs. is for a braked trailer? So what’s everyone using for a brake controller?
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I have looked through the manual and the sales literature. I have not read that. I thought that varied from state to state according to state laws.
I can’t recall where I read about the ID.4’s unbraked (trailer) towing capacity, but VW definitely says that the 2,200 lbs. (2,700 lbs. for the AWD models) towing capacity is with a braked trailer. I do think laws vary from state to state, but it’s not at all uncommon for vehicle manufacturers to put limits on their vehicles that are more conservative than the law allows.
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I think I read that the un-braked towing capacity is 1,500 lbs., and the 2,200 lbs. is for a braked trailer? So what’s everyone using for a brake controller?
Where did you find the unbraked towing capacity? I have not seen that.
Where did you find the unbraked towing capacity? I have not seen that.
See my reply above.
I have never heard of a braked trailer with a 2,000 pound limit, let alone a 1,500 pound limit. Europe has more requirements, I think for trailers. Braked trailers in the US are pretty rare; certainly utility trailers even up to 4000 pound capacity, don't have brakes, as far as I have seen.

Also, most US trailers have 4 or 5 pin connectors. RV trailers are some of the only trailers with 7 pin connectors.
The VW UK site says the hitch has unbraked capacity at 750kg (1650 lb), braked 1000kg (2200 lb.) This matches what VW in USA says on twitter so I think that is official.
Some states like CA have a 1500 pound limit on camper trailers before brakes are required. Most states its 3000, see:
AAA state trailer laws
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Hi all, side question, if we are planning on towing a caravan on a journey where we will need to charge up en route, how are we supposed to charge during the journey? Park up, unhitch in the caravan car park, charge then rehitch? seems like a bit of a hassle, but i guess its the only option
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Hi all, side question, if we are planning on towing a caravan on a journey where we will need to charge up en route, how are we supposed to charge during the journey? Park up, unhitch in the caravan car park, charge then rehitch? seems like a bit of a hassle, but i guess its the only option
Teslas have the same issue. Some of their chargers are installed in a way that someone with a trailer can charge without unhooking.
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Hi all, side question, if we are planning on towing a caravan on a journey where we will need to charge up en route, how are we supposed to charge during the journey? Park up, unhitch in the caravan car park, charge then rehitch? seems like a bit of a hassle, but i guess its the only option
That's a great point, but I think that no matter where the charge port is on the car, it would require some sort of accommodation at the parking spot to be able to charge with the trailer attached. As Eric mentions, there have to be charging stations where you can pull the vehicle along side it, to be able to plug in.
and not block 3 or 4 other chargers at the same time.
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The VW UK site says the hitch has unbraked capacity at 750kg (1650 lb), braked 1000kg (2200 lb.) This matches what VW in USA says on twitter so I think that is official.
Some states like CA have a 1500 pound limit on camper trailers before brakes are required. Most states its 3000, see:
AAA state trailer laws
Braked is always safer. But losing potential regen energy would hurt range. Maybe a "happy medium" would be using a hydraulic surge brake actuator that lets the ID provide all the mild braking via regen, but provides braking assist above (say) 0.4g.
Yes, that would work. I think the decent electronic brake controllers are proportional to the amount of brake pedal so if you adjust them properly we can get that result. This is one area where reading these forums eventually we will figure it out and let others know which ones work best.
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