The mileage being displayed is only a guess (we call it GOM or guess-o-meter). The number depends on various things. State of charge of the battery, temperature, past driving, among others.
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Power Management: what works, what doesn't
I don't recall seeing another thread on Power Management, so I thought I'd start one. I have a specific issue, but perhaps we could pin this one and share both problems and successes with improving EV performance.
Here's my post:
My ID.4 is now a couple of weeks old, and I've charged it a few times. I have it set to stop charging at 80%, and each charge has brought the mileage to ~250 miles. However, this latest charge brought it to 232 miles; this seems a significant gap to 250, but maybe it's within some margin of error 🤷♂️
But here's where I'm really befuddled: the next day, I got in the car and it registered 220 (it lost 12 overnight?) and drove literally 1 mile. During that short drive, he estimated mileage remaining had further dropped to 200. While I understand the miles remaining are just an estimate, it seems I lost 20% of my 250 target in less than 24 hours after a charge, and after driving just one mile.
Advice?
Here's my post:
My ID.4 is now a couple of weeks old, and I've charged it a few times. I have it set to stop charging at 80%, and each charge has brought the mileage to ~250 miles. However, this latest charge brought it to 232 miles; this seems a significant gap to 250, but maybe it's within some margin of error 🤷♂️
But here's where I'm really befuddled: the next day, I got in the car and it registered 220 (it lost 12 overnight?) and drove literally 1 mile. During that short drive, he estimated mileage remaining had further dropped to 200. While I understand the miles remaining are just an estimate, it seems I lost 20% of my 250 target in less than 24 hours after a charge, and after driving just one mile.
Advice?
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My advice is don't worry about it. Internal battery pack temps ought to be playing a roll in the estimated range, and that's a real impact. So after sitting overnight, with any residual heat lost, the battery has itself become less efficient. That comes back as the temp rises. Then you've got recent activity. My wife headed to a park up in the hills today and when I checked the on Car Net it estimated 70 miles of range remaining. After she descended back to the house, it estimated 85 miles. Recent driving activity has a large impact.
Another thing to think about it state of charge. The battery management system can't really "know" an accurate state of charge at any given time, it counts electron flow in and out and does a pretty good job on the fly. After sitting a while, giving the battery a chance to stabilize, it can more accurately read the voltage and resistance and may fine tune its "guess" as to percent remaining. So you can expect to see some variation in percent just by leaving the vehicle parked for a few hours.
Another thing to think about it state of charge. The battery management system can't really "know" an accurate state of charge at any given time, it counts electron flow in and out and does a pretty good job on the fly. After sitting a while, giving the battery a chance to stabilize, it can more accurately read the voltage and resistance and may fine tune its "guess" as to percent remaining. So you can expect to see some variation in percent just by leaving the vehicle parked for a few hours.
What if anything did you have going as far as other draw? Climate control, radio, etc. I've barely driven my car since getting it, but with the climate control off at 80% charge it's about 313 miles. If I turn on the climate control It drops maybe 30-40 miles of estimated range right off the bat.
Advice is to monitor the state of charge, not the estimated range WAG. The range WAG can be all over the place with a given SOC.My ID.4 is now a couple of weeks old, and I've charged it a few times. I have it set to stop charging at 80%, and each charge has brought the mileage to ~250 miles. However, this latest charge brought it to 232 miles; this seems a significant gap to 250, but maybe it's within some margin of error 🤷♂️
But here's where I'm really befuddled: the next day, I got in the car and it registered 220 (it lost 12 overnight?) and drove literally 1 mile. During that short drive, he estimated mileage remaining had further dropped to 200. While I understand the miles remaining are just an estimate, it seems I lost 20% of my 250 target in less than 24 hours after a charge, and after driving just one mile.
Advice?
You can see SOC on the vehicle / charging screen or read it with an OBD II reader and an app.
If we want people to make the switch from ICE to electric, this is not helpful. Those folks are going to want a reasonably reliable Distance Til Empty like their gas cars and not have to fiddle with ODB readers or interpret SOC.Advice is to monitor the state of charge, not the estimated range WAG. The range WAG can be all over the place with a given SOC.
You can see SOC on the vehicle / charging screen or read it with an OBD II reader and an app.
SOC% is solid of the car. shows the middle of the lowest % and highest % of the battery cells and rounding it up (65.4 = 65%, 65.5 -> 66%) Dont need to fiddle with apps.Advice is to monitor the state of charge, not the estimated range WAG. The range WAG can be all over the place with a given SOC.
You can see SOC on the vehicle / charging screen or read it with an OBD II reader and an app.
The drop is related how you are driving your cars, what the temperature is etc etc. are you guys driving it between 60 en 70F? then these ranges should be fine without high speed (75+ mph) runs in the past. Temperatures lower then that and you should expect a rangedrop
Also the shorter your trips in colder weather, bigger the range drops. A good chunk of power is used to heat up the batteries to optimum temperatures
I agree that the ID.4 does not easily show information that is useful for predicting remaining range. To use your ICE car analogy, the ID.4 does not easily show the amount of gas remaining in the tank. Also, No GOM will ever accurately predict the remaining range of an EV or an ICE car because it is based on past and not current or future performance.If we want people to make the switch from ICE to electric, this is not helpful. Those folks are going to want a reasonably reliable Distance Til Empty like their gas cars and not have to fiddle with ODB readers or interpret SOC.
This should be fixed by showing these data items on the steering column screen or the infotainment one:
1. Battery state of charge. Either in percentage or as a graph with about 25 bars. This would be an analog for a gas gauge in an ICE car
2. Trip odometer
Having both of those visible would allow estimation on the current charge's usage, and not the unknown algorithm used by the GOM.
These are now both accessible via separate submenus on the infotainment screen. That seems really stupid - what would you think if a gas car had the gas gauge on a submenu?
I think that the GOM range WAG should go into a submenu since it is for entertainment purposes only and not a reliable prediction.
State of charge is visible in the "ID Cockpit" screen behind the wheel. It may not have the precision you want, but it's there. Percentage is only shown if below 10%. This is from one of Bjørn Nyland's videos (regular mode on left, below 10% on right):1. Battery state of charge. Either in percentage or as a graph with about 25 bars. This would be an analog for a gas gauge in an ICE car
We are new to EVs. We just took a long road trip and I was quite comfortable using the estimated range. I would just calculate distance to EA chargers and give ourselves a 50 mile or so cushion. It worked fine with no range anxiety. In addition, if you use the premium edition of ABRP and project it thorough Apple CarPlay on to the infotainment screen, it will show percentage of battery available and estimated percentage upon arrival at the charge station. I thought that was quite nice, useful and anxiety reducing.
Thanks. I hadn't realized that the car actually does show the SOC but only if it is under 10%. Not very useful if you are in the middle of the range IMO.State of charge is visible in the "ID Cockpit" screen behind the wheel. It may not have the precision you want, but it's there. Percentage is only shown if below 10%. This is from one of Bjørn Nyland's videos (regular mode on left, below 10% on right):
View attachment 2578
That's an easy fix for an OTA update, the code and UI screen location is already there, just show the % all the time, instead of only <10%.
or as an option, like you know, on your phoneThat's an easy fix for an OTA update, the code and UI screen location is already there, just show the % all the time, instead of only <10%.
It only shows it numerically if it's under 10%, but it's always shown graphically in the little battery icon.Thanks. I hadn't realized that the car actually does show the SOC but only if it is under 10%. Not very useful if you are in the middle of the range IMO.
There is an icon, but it is not useful as a quantitative measure of the SOC.It only shows it numerically if it's under 10%, but it's always shown graphically in the little battery icon.
A 'graph with about 25 bars' doesn't sound any better really.There is an icon, but it is not useful as a quantitative measure of the SOC.
Yeah, you have a good point. The SOC percentage should just be shown next to the battery icon.A 'graph with about 25 bars' doesn't sound any better really.
Or maybe customizable. I don't need the percentage unless I am under 40%. That's when I decide if I need to charge.
I like to watch how it changes throughout the range when on a road trip.Or maybe customizable. I don't need the percentage unless I am under 40%. That's when I decide if I need to charge.
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