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They were very motivated to make the sale unlike the other 3 dealerships in the NYC area that we had visited first. All the others had said they would not discount, and it really seemed like they did not even want to make the sale.
Was one of them Teddy VW? I went in there, they asked what I currently drive (Volvo XC60 T8) and what I liked didn't like. Salesman said "you should probably buy another Volvo". Amazing! Luckily I don't need to buy right away, just within maybe 3 mo or so. So I'll be patient. I'll def check Brooklyn VW though, 2k under would work for me.
 

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2021 VW ID4 FE
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One day, when I grow up, I want to be like you. However, just like @TT97 said, don't let them know you are paying cash. Negotiate like you are going to finance, after you get the "Out the Door" price, you say, "BAM!!! I'm paying cash. Take that!"
You will get there if you spend less than you make and pay yourself first, and invest, invest, invest. I made mistakes financing cars in the past, now I don't finance (unless 0%.) To achieve long term wealth you need to reduce how much you pay in taxes, fees, and interest. Buying a vehicle, avoid the games, offer a fair OTD, and you can even do a majority of it from the comforts of your home. Tesla sells vehicles without even a test drive or the buyer going to a sales location ever (at home delivery).
You need to take dealerships leverage away by eliminating the following: financing, monthly payment, playing with numbers, home field advantage, bringing in the "closer", etc. First: go to dealership if you have a trade in and get that done first. Here in CT you pay taxes on the difference between the trade in and the purchased vehicle price, so it can be quite advantages to trade in cars. Second: due your due diligence and know what the fair price is for the vehicle your looking at. Third use one of the many online calculators (I use Carmax) to determine your TTR (tax,title, and registration) for your state. The dealer will most likely have a conveyance or fudge factor fee. That is their bake in profit/BS fee, I usually try to eliminate it in my calculations or at least cut it in half. Tesla has no conveyance fee, the benefit of dealing directly with the manufacturer. Now you have all the information that you need to make a "fair" OTD offer. I purchased my ID 4 FE for a good price $45783 OTD (sticker was $45,524, trade in $29K, and no state rebates could be used due to vehicle over $42K). I paid $5K using a credit card for cash back perks, $5K because cash is trash in an inflationary environment, and the rest with a cashiers check. It was a quick and clean deal, and if you do this near the end of the month, the dealership has even more motivation. They are going to rip some buyers off horribly, some will fight them hard for every dollar, and some are quick deals that just add to their monthly sales numbers. Good luck, buying a car can be fun if you have leverage.
 

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My local dealer showed 16 ID4s in stock but when I checked it out there were only 2 on the lot. The inventory online includes cars ordered online (so allocated to customer orders) as well as cars for sale that are still in transit. So the inventory number is much higher than what a dealer actually has available to sell.
This is the case here in Central Florida anyhow. Of the 4 dealers in the Orlando area, all show stock of some level, but only 1 had 3 cars to actually sell (they said they were ordering for stock, I suspect they were deals that fell through). We test drove one at the dealer but I'm not sure I'd buy from them for an out-the-door car, as they were all loaded up with dealer addons like paint and seat protector, etc. So they were 'selling at MSRP' but adding on another $5k in stuff. No telling with the finance guy wanted to try and add, but almost all dealers here are notorious for their 'no dicker $700 dealer fee'. Why I tend to buy my cars out of the area (Miami, Virginia for my last one, etc.).
 

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Southern California (Palm Springs area) here. I think I did okay. I asked several dealers in the area to let me know when they actually had inventory to sell. One called to tell me they had one Pro S in stock added with about $4,500 ( I kid you not!) in dealer options to the car that they would not budge on. Another dealer told me they were adding a $5,000 premium due to demand. Third dealer called a few days later early morning, three Pro S's had arrived the night prior. A few factory add-ons (Monster mats and Homelink, which I was happy to have) and about $500 in some dealer protections (windshield and interior). They were firm on the price so considering the ridiculous quotes from the others I considered it a fair sale. I bought the car four days ago. I just checked their inventory and I see the other two Pro S's have already sold. Maybe others are doing better in other parts of the country.
 

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This is the case here in Central Florida anyhow. Of the 4 dealers in the Orlando area, all show stock of some level, but only 1 had 3 cars to actually sell (they said they were ordering for stock, I suspect they were deals that fell through). We test drove one at the dealer but I'm not sure I'd buy from them for an out-the-door car, as they were all loaded up with dealer addons like paint and seat protector, etc. So they were 'selling at MSRP' but adding on another $5k in stuff. No telling with the finance guy wanted to try and add, but almost all dealers here are notorious for their 'no dicker $700 dealer fee'. Why I tend to buy my cars out of the area (Miami, Virginia for my last one, etc.).
I hear you.

I will add my story here especially since I am close to you. Agreed on price on phone after getting "manager approval." When I sit down to sign, the price is higher than what was agreed and they had two dealer add ons- vin etching and permaplate wax. I walked.

I may call back and ask for the sales manager directly to see if that can be removed but really, MSRP + a crazy doc fee + a high electronic filling fee, and then on top of it overpriced snake oil? I mean, maybe if the add ons were 3m bumber shields or tint. but 1K for wax and vin etching? c"mon.

I may also look in other states without these crazy doc fees we have. Doc Fee = cross country trucking fee, so it does not matter where I buy.

Having said that, I am hoping that starting end of this month/ beginning of October, that shipments resume and inventory increases so prices are not so crazy.
 

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Yikes these central FL stories are scary. I am about to walk into a dealer (Orlando North) and discuss an out the door price.

I don't need a car and I have backup options (RAV4 Prime, two Mach-Es, possible gas cars) if I want a new car ASAP. Also have a Model Y on order (ETA Jan 2022) if everything else falls through.
 

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ID.4 Pro S AWD
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Yikes these central FL stories are scary. I am about to walk into a dealer (Orlando North) and discuss an out the door price.

I don't need a car and I have backup options (RAV4 Prime, two Mach-Es, possible gas cars) if I want a new car ASAP. Also have a Model Y on order (ETA Jan 2022) if everything else falls through.
If you are not emotionally attached to the new car and that comes over in the negotiations that puts you in a stronger bargaining position. Doesn't guarantee success but gives you best chance.
 
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If you are not emotionally attached to the new car and that comes over in the negotiations that puts you in a stronger bargaining position. Doesn't guarantee success but gives you best chance.
Paid MSRP but also paid the dealer fee (whatever, at least I didn't pay a doc fee) and for tint (yeah, more random markup but I was going to get tint anyhow in FL). Still way better than the $5K markup for the RAV4 Primes (on trims I did care for with useless extras like heated seats in FL) and Mach-Es. I didn't complain because the process was so smooth and didn't involve 3 layers of sales agents. They gave me an out the door price almost immediately after the e-mail and not the usual "somebody will speak to you" and invite you to meet them before discussing any details.
 
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