I'll be doing similar installation on mine when I get it (Hopefully in a few weeks). Let me know how your installation goes and if there are any pitfalls to look for.
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Removing trim to install dashcam – advice?
I've bought two Garmin dashcams (the 57 and the Mini 2, front and rear) that I plan to install in our new id.4. I want them always on for parking security. Based on my research, that seems to require moving a fuse to ensure the trunk-located 12v cigarette outlet always has power. I've also bought a monitor for voltage level of prevent draining the onboard 12 volt battery (Rhundo 21S) with two USB outlets. My plan has been to run a USB cable from the trunk to the front, near the rearview mirror, where I intend to place the 57. The Mini 2 will be located in the rear window, looking back. Similarly powered using a USB cable running through the trunk door and up.
So far so good, but this requires removing a fair amount of the trim. I've watched some videos to see how it's done and I've bought the necessary tools. Just wondering if someone else here has attempted it and has some advice to share.
So far so good, but this requires removing a fair amount of the trim. I've watched some videos to see how it's done and I've bought the necessary tools. Just wondering if someone else here has attempted it and has some advice to share.
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
I remember a thread where this was discussed: My Vantrue N2S Dual 2.5K Dash Cam with GPS installation
I went thru something similar, I have a mirror dashcam Akeeyo 360 (dashcam attached to the rear view mirror) that has a rear camera. I have the dashcam powered by tapping the fuse box described in the thread above. However I still had to run a wire to the rear hatch door for the rear camera. Basically I did not have to completely remove the trim pieces, just pull them out a little bit to allow running the wires. Especially the A pillar was very difficult to completely remove because it has those locking clips from hell (this is intentional so that the A pillar trim don't fly to your face when airbags deploy), and it was quite difficult, but doable. Also about the A-pillar part, remember to run the wires behind the air bag so that it does not block airbag deployment path.
Running my rear camera wire it was not too difficult through the side trims (Between the doors), just be mindful again about the airbags. Above the doors, simply pull the rubber seals and pull down the headliner a bit to run wires. Towards the side-rear, the side-rear trim pieces also easy to pull off a little bit all the way to the back headliner. Now between the rear headliner and the hatch door this could get tricky. For a nice clean install, I run the wires through inside one of the two wire boots, but that was not easily achieved. The wire boots are quite small and angled. Also my wire happen to have a right-angle mini-usb connector that makes it even more difficult to fish through the already tight space. I should have spliced it, but what I did was remove one of the boots first and run it that way but note that the boot clips/snaps are extremely weak so I managed to break all of them darn boot clips. I had to superglue the broken clip pins back, fortunately they are still holding up so far. Other than that, the rest of the trim (the plastic panel above the hatch door) unsnaps pretty easy.
The end result is pretty good, no unsightly wires and the rear 12V socket is still available for use for something else.
I went thru something similar, I have a mirror dashcam Akeeyo 360 (dashcam attached to the rear view mirror) that has a rear camera. I have the dashcam powered by tapping the fuse box described in the thread above. However I still had to run a wire to the rear hatch door for the rear camera. Basically I did not have to completely remove the trim pieces, just pull them out a little bit to allow running the wires. Especially the A pillar was very difficult to completely remove because it has those locking clips from hell (this is intentional so that the A pillar trim don't fly to your face when airbags deploy), and it was quite difficult, but doable. Also about the A-pillar part, remember to run the wires behind the air bag so that it does not block airbag deployment path.
Running my rear camera wire it was not too difficult through the side trims (Between the doors), just be mindful again about the airbags. Above the doors, simply pull the rubber seals and pull down the headliner a bit to run wires. Towards the side-rear, the side-rear trim pieces also easy to pull off a little bit all the way to the back headliner. Now between the rear headliner and the hatch door this could get tricky. For a nice clean install, I run the wires through inside one of the two wire boots, but that was not easily achieved. The wire boots are quite small and angled. Also my wire happen to have a right-angle mini-usb connector that makes it even more difficult to fish through the already tight space. I should have spliced it, but what I did was remove one of the boots first and run it that way but note that the boot clips/snaps are extremely weak so I managed to break all of them darn boot clips. I had to superglue the broken clip pins back, fortunately they are still holding up so far. Other than that, the rest of the trim (the plastic panel above the hatch door) unsnaps pretty easy.
The end result is pretty good, no unsightly wires and the rear 12V socket is still available for use for something else.
Thank you. This is super valuable to know. Thanks for taking the time to write it.I remember a thread where this was discussed: My Vantrue N2S Dual 2.5K Dash Cam with GPS installation
I went thru something similar, I have a mirror dashcam Akeeyo 360 (dashcam attached to the rear view mirror) that has a rear camera. I have the dashcam powered by tapping the fuse box described in the thread above. However I still had to run a wire to the rear hatch door for the rear camera. Basically I did not have to completely remove the trim pieces, just pull them out a little bit to allow running the wires. Especially the A pillar was very difficult to completely remove because it has those locking clips from hell (this is intentional so that the A pillar trim don't fly to your face when airbags deploy), and it was quite difficult, but doable. Also about the A-pillar part, remember to run the wires behind the air bag so that it does not block airbag deployment path.
Running my rear camera wire it was not too difficult through the side trims (Between the doors), just be mindful again about the airbags. Above the doors, simply pull the rubber seals and pull down the headliner a bit to run wires. Towards the side-rear, the side-rear trim pieces also easy to pull off a little bit all the way to the back headliner. Now between the rear headliner and the hatch door this could get tricky. For a nice clean install, I run the wires through inside one of the two wire boots, but that was not easily achieved. The wire boots are quite small and angled. Also my wire happen to have a right-angle mini-usb connector that makes it even more difficult to fish through the already tight space. I should have spliced it, but what I did was remove one of the boots first and run it that way but note that the boot clips/snaps are extremely weak so I managed to break all of them darn boot clips. I had to superglue the broken clip pins back, fortunately they are still holding up so far. Other than that, the rest of the trim (the plastic panel above the hatch door) unsnaps pretty easy.
The end result is pretty good, no unsightly wires and the rear 12V socket is still available for use for something else.
With the solution I have in mind, there's no need to route it along the A pillar. It just needs to follow the ceiling trim. So that should help a lot. The boots for the hatch seem like a challenge though, especially since I need to thread a USB cable there.
Yes if you run power towards the rear cargo 12V socket, no need to run wire down in the A pillar trim to the fuse box which is the major pain.With the solution I have in mind, there's no need to route it along the A pillar. It just needs to follow the ceiling trim. So that should help a lot. The boots for the hatch seem like a challenge though, especially since I need to thread a USB cable there.
I think for fishing wire through the rear hatch boot, it is better if you cut the usb connector out and fish a bare wire and then reconnect the connector after. Leave a bit of wire for the usb connector, so that you can hide the reconnected wire under the hatch roof trim panel. You could try disconnecting the boot ends first to make easier but as I warned before the clips are very easy to break.
If you're going this route, just make sure you reconnect the drain as well. Just because it doesn't carry current or data doesn't mean it's not important.Good plan. I could even take the cable apart and only fish two wires, since in a USB cable, only two wires carry current. My soldering iron will see some use!
View attachment 8412
I can't speak for the back camera but, if you want an always-on power source for a front dashcam, I highly suggest this minimally invasive method: Always-on Power in Overhead Console
Interesting solution. Problem is, the Garmin doesn't have a power cut-off if the voltage goes too low, which is why I bought the Rhundo for voltage monitoring.
I had the same concern regarding draining the 12V battery. I gave it a try anyway knowing that I could adapt the setup as needed but it has been operating like this for a month now and I’ve haven’t had any issues. Ultimately, it’s up to you what you’re comfortable doing.Interesting solution. Problem is, the Garmin doesn't have a power cut-off if the voltage goes too low, which is why I bought the Rhundo for voltage monitoring.
I did some calculations, and it seemed that it could drain the battery in less than 40 hours at continuous drain (5V, 2A). But I'm not an electrician or engineer so it might be incorrect. Seeing as we sometimes don't drive for extended periods and don't always park in heated spaces, it seemed unwise to take the chance. But I very much like the cleaner, less invasive install there.I had the same concern regarding draining the 12V battery. I gave it a try anyway knowing that I could adapt the setup as needed but it has been operating like this for a month now and I’ve haven’t had any issues. Ultimately, it’s up to you what you’re comfortable doing.
Thats a great solution tapping from the overhead console. May have done it instead had known.
So far I have "sentry mode" always on I haven't had issue with drains yet the HV battery seems to keep it topped up but I have read of dead 12V battery before, not 100% reliable on this functionality. I actually did have just one time where Carnet says the 12V battery too low to operate itself, but when I get in the car it was turning on like usual no errors. 🤞
Also, about the fuse box, there are a lot of empty fuse slots, some switched some always on. Initially I tapped some random fuse spots, and it produced some electrical error messages randomly which cleared with a power cycle (my car had been error free before). So afterwards I switched tapping on the rear 12V socket fuse and one of the fuses that supposed to be for the towing package (I don't have it), and the errors stopped happening. So just a note that the electronics could be a bit sensitive, not sure about tapping the overhead console. With the fuse box method you could switch and experiment with different power sources, or could also run direct to the battery through to the "engine" compartment.
So far I have "sentry mode" always on I haven't had issue with drains yet the HV battery seems to keep it topped up but I have read of dead 12V battery before, not 100% reliable on this functionality. I actually did have just one time where Carnet says the 12V battery too low to operate itself, but when I get in the car it was turning on like usual no errors. 🤞
Also, about the fuse box, there are a lot of empty fuse slots, some switched some always on. Initially I tapped some random fuse spots, and it produced some electrical error messages randomly which cleared with a power cycle (my car had been error free before). So afterwards I switched tapping on the rear 12V socket fuse and one of the fuses that supposed to be for the towing package (I don't have it), and the errors stopped happening. So just a note that the electronics could be a bit sensitive, not sure about tapping the overhead console. With the fuse box method you could switch and experiment with different power sources, or could also run direct to the battery through to the "engine" compartment.
Garmin offers a parking mode cable with a low voltage cut-off switch: The Impact of the Garmin Dash Cam's Parking Mode on a Vehicle's Battery | Garmin Support
I could potentially connect that to the overhead console. But I'll think I'll go with the plan. I've bought all the necessary tools and supplies.
I could potentially connect that to the overhead console. But I'll think I'll go with the plan. I've bought all the necessary tools and supplies.
Just beware of those side curtain airbags and how they deploy. That's what made me nervous about just tucking a cable along the A-pillar. On previous cars, I had always taken the A-pillar trim off and properly routed and secured the cable to avoid interfering with airbag deployment but VW made it a bit too difficult to remove that trim on the ID.4.Garmin offers a parking mode cable with a low voltage cut-off switch: The Impact of the Garmin Dash Cam's Parking Mode on a Vehicle's Battery | Garmin Support
I could potentially connect that to the overhead console. But I'll think I'll go with the plan. I've bought all the necessary tools and supplies.
I don't plan on putting a cable inside the A pillar trim. Looking from the outside, something like this should work. Airbags are marked with green rectangles.
As evident here:
But then again, messing with safety equipment isn't wise. It seems tucking the cable under the airbag (as in above it, under the ceiling) should work. Otherwise, it can turn into a whip when the bag deploys in an accident.
Would an authorized auto repair shop install dashcams?
In my experience yes, however, at least those I've spoken with was completely upfront with it, it wills cost an arm and a leg. For my current Tiguan I had it done at a Bosch service workshop for 2500:-/kr (seeing as you are a fellow Swede).Would an authorized auto repair shop install dashcams?
This crash test video is a good indication of what pops out of where at the :50s mark:
The trouble area is the joint between the A-pillar trim and the headliner at the front doors. The side airbag stretches from the C-pillar all the way past that joint into the A-pillar area. Any cable routed the way you show in red MUST be routed above the coiled up airbag. This is not impossible, as the video you embedded shows, if you know what you're doing but they don't make it easy. With a car that's as quiet as the ID.4, I fear that I won't be able to put it back together like the factory and will create rattles and/or squeaks. I didn't even like removing the lighting assembly but I gambled that I'd have better luck reinstalling that than the trim pieces.
The trouble area is the joint between the A-pillar trim and the headliner at the front doors. The side airbag stretches from the C-pillar all the way past that joint into the A-pillar area. Any cable routed the way you show in red MUST be routed above the coiled up airbag. This is not impossible, as the video you embedded shows, if you know what you're doing but they don't make it easy. With a car that's as quiet as the ID.4, I fear that I won't be able to put it back together like the factory and will create rattles and/or squeaks. I didn't even like removing the lighting assembly but I gambled that I'd have better luck reinstalling that than the trim pieces.
ThanksIn my experience yes, however, at least those I've spoken with was completely upfront with it, it wills cost an arm and a leg. For my current Tiguan I had it done at a Bosch service workshop for 2500:-/kr (seeing as you are a fellow Swede).
I can live with that considering what the car costs. If it's done professionally and safely. I'd rather not mess with airbags myself.1 - 20 of 24 Posts
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