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RivNuts for mounting the rear license plate?

7K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  systemlogicblah 
#1 ·
Has anyone tried to install rivnuts in the spots you would drill holes for the rear license plate? Seems like that would provide a more sturdy and serviceable solution at a fraction of the cost of the various 3rd-party brackets people have made.
 
#3 ·
I think the main concern with using self-tapping screws is that they strip out after a few uses, or don't have enough pulling strength. But I'm in your camp, there isn't an inherent problem with having holes behind where the license plate goes, as long as its on straight and centered.
 
#5 ·
On my cars, I’ve used rubber well nuts with brass inserts and brass hardware for mounting through plastic bumper covers. No corrosion, no stripping, water tight fit - and if you wear one out, which I never have, you can simply loosen the screw to extract the old well nut. Unlike a self cutting screw, the tighter one tightens the screw into a well nut - more secure it becomes by “mushrooming” on the backside.
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#6 ·
On my cars, I’ve used rubber well nuts with brass inserts and brass hardware for mounting through plastic bumper covers. No corrosion, no stripping, water tight fit - and if you wear one out, which I never have, you can simply loosen the screw to extract the old well nut. Unlike a self cutting screw, the tighter one tightens the screw into a well nut - more secure it becomes by “mushrooming” on the backside. View attachment 8505
Oh, these ones., looks interesting, I might look at those if my self-tapping screws loosen over time. But so far, 9 months and 15K miles is still tight



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#7 ·
I suspect (hope) this will no longer be a problem with Chattanooga built cars . . . .

I understand with the German built cars there's no telling where they would end up and what size and shape the plate might be, so they did . . . . nothing. Unfortunately, this put us at the mercy of some $10 an hour dealership employee to drill holes in our new $50K cars . . . .
 
#13 ·
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