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I am listening to high bit rate MP3 files that sound pretty awful on the VW. Ones with limited percussion and bandwidth, say mellow (Hawaiian) acoustic guitar, do sound OK. Add something with multiple instruments and percussion and the sound goes downhill very fast. I also notice the peakiness in the VW's midrange response.

These same files sounded much better in my previous car.
I have the Fender sound system in my VW GTI and the Alpine System in my Ford F150 and I find the ID4 system just fine. Not as good as the other two but it sounds quite good to me. I guess we're all entitled to our opinion....or maybe my ears are shot :)
 

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ID.4 FE GW
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I have the Fender sound system in my VW GTI and the Alpine System in my Ford F150 and I find the ID4 system just fine. Not as good as the other two but it sounds quite good to me. I guess we're all entitled to our opinion....or maybe my ears are shot :)
Interesting. What kind of music do you listen to?
I like acoustic instruments with vocals, which have an absolute reference in live music (remember that?).
 

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ID.4 FE GW
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Right - MP3 files do a lot of masking, with louder sounds getting played, but the softer ones get cut out to compress the files. Even the highest bitrate MP3s are not great. FLAC are uncompressed (at least as a file type).
Sorry it took me awhile to figure out I was being trolled - you got me! :)
I hadn't noticed the combination of FLAC and streaming earlier - I assume bluetooth streaming with all of its glorious jitter, stutter, and other woes.
 

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Interesting. What kind of music do you listen to?
I like acoustic instruments with vocals, which have an absolute reference in live music (remember that?).
I almost exclusively listen to jazz. Live music? Ah yes, a distant memory 🙂
 

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2021 VW ID.4 1st Edition Dusk Blue
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Sure, I listen to FLACs on my home stereo and agree that they are noticeably better than MP3s. But that is on a high performance system with a top-end DAC, monoblock amps, and serious floor-standing time-aligned three-way speakers that are properly positioned in the room.

FLACs on an ID.4? What a waste of storage space!

The ID.4 audio is total garbage - it cannot even reproduce frequencies below ~100 Hz and it has zero dynamic response.

The same 256 kbps MP3 files that sound awful in the ID.4 sound much better on my phone or in other cars.
Your home system seems to be serious, and it probably is better than what most people have. My system is full range 2-way mass loaded transmission line floor standing towers, with an active crossover and are biamped. The midrange / tweeter is open baffle, and plays everything above 480Hz, and is time aligned with the woofer. They are strong down to the low 30's, and have useful in room response well into the 20's. The transmission line design has the best bass quality of any speaker I have ever heard.

At least try with well recorded 320kbps MP3. As Linn Audio used to say, the source is important on any system.

The bass response in the ID.4 definitely hits at least 40-50Hz. It is better than most stock stereos. My brother's eTron system is definitely much better, for sure. But the ID.4 system is better than the best the Chevy Bolt has to offer.
 

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M
Your home system seems to be serious, and it probably is better than what most people have. My system is full range 2-way mass loaded transmission line floor standing towers, with an active crossover and are biamped. The midrange / tweeter is open baffle, and plays everything above 480Hz, and is time aligned with the woofer. They are strong down to the low 30's, and have useful in room response well into the 20's. The transmission line design has the best bass quality of any speaker I have ever heard.

At least try with well recorded 320kbps MP3. As Linn Audio used to say, the source is important on any system.

The bass response in the ID.4 definitely hits at least 40-50Hz. It is better than most stock stereos. My brother's eTron system is definitely much better, for sure. But the ID.4 system is better than the best the Chevy Bolt has to offer.
My old ears probably can't hear below 250 Hz or above 10 kHz.
To me the FE has plenty of power when I crank up the volume
 

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2021 VW ID.4 1st Edition Dusk Blue
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Us older guys do tend to lose our higher frequencies, but we tend to keep our ability to hear low frequencies. Let's put it this way - if you can hear the thud when you close a car door, then you are hearing/feeling about a 5Hz frequency.

The open note on the bottom string on a 4-string electric bass guitar, is about 41Hz. And the same on a 5-string (or or 6 or 7) electric bass is about 32Hz. Big drums, and synths and pipe organs all get down into the bottom octave (20Hz to 40Hz), so if you hear any of those on an audio system that is halfway decent, your bass hearing is still okay.
 

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2021 VW ID.4 1st Edition, Dusk Blue <3
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I'm no audiophile but I also feel like the ID.4 sound system is "pretty good", compared to our outgoing Bolt. Before I traded in my Alltrack with Fender audio, I could tell the difference between that and the ID.4, barely, but ID.4 never sounded "bad." I wonder if it's possible that there's some kind of hardware issue with @TPG's audio? Not sure if that's very plausible, but maybe something to look into?
 

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ID.4 FE GW
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I'm no audiophile but I also feel like the ID.4 sound system is "pretty good", compared to our outgoing Bolt. Before I traded in my Alltrack with Fender audio, I could tell the difference between that and the ID.4, barely, but ID.4 never sounded "bad." I wonder if it's possible that there's some kind of hardware issue with @TPG's audio? Not sure if that's very plausible, but maybe something to look into?
I am beginning to think that there is indeed some hardware problem with my audio. I was listening to it in the car with the HV system off last night, and indeed it was consistent with other basic car audio and pretty much OK. My wife and I have both noticed that it can occasionally sound OK when driving.

I am wondering if there is some sort of noise leaking into the analog audio amplification chain. I'll work on diagnosing / isolating that in between debugging my delayed charging failures...
 

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To jump in - there's definitely a difference with higher encoding levels, and some stereos mask it more than others. My wife's explorer is pretty bass-heavy and does a great job with just about anything you throw at it, even streaming. I can tell the difference, but she can't. My accord is a different animal entirely. I've hated that system since day one, but I noticed a huge improvement when I started using exclusively FLAC or high bitrate AAC.

The id.4 on the same music is... fine. The accord is better, which is a poor reflection of the VW. I'll definitely be upgrading at least the speakers in the future.
 

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VW missed the boat with lighting. Not only are the hvac, and volume controls unlit, the glove box has no light either. It would also be nice if there were a readout of each tire's pressure, but since VW has no pressure sensors in the tires that would be impossible. Instead VW uses the rotation sensors of each wheel to trigger the TPMS.
 

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ID.4 FE Blue
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Double-tap on audio controls underneath the screen should mute/unmute (very much like double-tapping heating controls switches seat heating on/off).
 
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VW missed the boat with lighting. Not only are the hvac, and volume controls unlit, the glove box has no light either.
If I were a betting man, I'd put money on VW facing a lawsuit over the unlit HVAC and volume buttons at some point. It's darn near impossible to quickly change temperature at night. Someone will inevitably get in an accident because of this - and it's off to the races. VW will lose, too.

I'm hopeful for a recall on these specific unlit buttons. They're an actual hazard.
 

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Alright, here's my initial laundry list of changes I'd like to see after 500 miles or so. I've tried to keep them more or less organized. Many of these are not breaking new ground on this thread:

Current version of the car. Note that all of these should be possible via software updates except the first one:

Lighted temperature and volume sliders below center screen via recall process (there’s a lawsuit coming at some point, get in front of it while production volumes are low!

Single button seat and steering wheel heat, and put the passenger heat control on, you know, the passenger side. Where they're sitting. Next to their cabin temp control

Ability to turn off touch-sensitive steering wheel controls (volume slider, speed control)

Built-in nav needs EA charger support, better routing, and better display. It’s just awful

Volume of the pedestrian alerts (electronic engine noises?) needs to be way lower

Car-Net is, well, lacking. I’d like to see car lock and window shade status. It’s way, way too slow to update

Plug and charge. Seriously

Brake hold implementation; I know this is allegedly coming

Better hill hold. Seriously. It feels like I’m driving a manual transmission car - which I like driving - but that’s not what this car is

While we’re on brakes, it’s almost impossible to stop this car smoothly at a stoplight. I can’t decide if it’s the creep mode doing something odd, or if the brakes are grabbing. The latter seems odd, since there’s no brake hold

ID Light integrated with CarPlay and Android Auto nav. This might not be possible? While we're at it, it needs to be displayed longer for turns. Maybe blend it in as the turn approaches? e.g., for a right turn at 30 seconds from the turn have it display just a bit on the right end, and as you get closer have it get longer and longer, last 5 seconds it's doing the "run from end to end" thing?

ID Light displayed the entire time for charging

I’d like better control of the screen in front of the driver. Like so many, I’d rather see SOC over the GOM. I’d like a Trip A/B meter, with mi/kWH for each one.

Speaking of trip meters and mi/kWH, on the infotainment/Vehicle medium-sized modules, the mi/kWH displayed is always the instant version, although the miles displayed is cumulative. Poor choice, easily fixed

Further on the trip meters, I’d like to be able to use those modules on the infotainment screen, but select which trip meter I’m using and have it stay there; and they could be the small modules at that

And while we’re on infotainment, the display layout options are limited. More, please! I particularly want to be able to display CarPlay and a few “native” info bits (trip meters)

I’d also love a display screen that just shows the time, with tiny buttons for CarPlay or a few native screens. I’ve used a blank display screen, this is close…but a module with the time in it would be great

And of course, the infotainment screen is ridiculously slow with any built-in nav displayed, and merely slow if it isn’t. Optimizations are needed here

Walk-away auto-lock, please

Let me leave the car running when I get out

We've got a sort of "dog mode," let me tell it how long to stay on

My car has a thing where it frequently won’t see the car in front of me until I come to a stop behind the car

Dreaming: I’d love to be able to select a regen curve for “B” mode. I’d like it to blend in a bit more slowly

“Throttle” tip-in is too sudden, particularly for Comfort and Eco modes. Just needs a curve change. It actually seems to be smoother in Sport mode?

Humidity control in this car is a challenge. Just let me select A/C on and Recirc on all the time. Problem solved if the A/C is actually running. Yes, I know it’s not quite as efficient, it’s close enough, let me use the car like I want, please

Let me turn off lane assist (not lane keeping) permanently. I know it's a safety thing, but I actually almost got in an accident yesterday because the car was fighting me from moving within a single, unmarked lane as it split into two. Frustrating, and dangerous

Let's get an owner's manual that has clear directions, and is a downloadable PDF. I'd accept downloadable into an app, as long as the app was appropriately sized for the device (phone/tablet/computer) but what's available now is barely usable, and barely intelligible, and if I'm not on-line I can't use it

Future versions of the car:

No piano black. Anywhere. Ever

Better fabric for the base model, and fabric interior available on more than just the base model.

The interior color choices are, um, unattractive for the most part.

Get rid of the damn haptic buttons. Seriously. Just use, you know, buttons. They work fine

Sunglass holder - preferably two - in the overhead space

Better use of the space below the current cupholders

Storage to the left of the steering wheel, there needs to be a cubby there

While we’re talking interior storage, the center console is not great. If you’re going to put a phone charging pad in there, it needs ventilation, and forced ventilation at that

Further, there needs to be a way to put an Apple MagSafe pad in there. Qi generates So.Much.Heat.

And in the end, I’d rather have my phone mounted where I can see it. Let me remove the charging mat altogether and leave me some room somewhere to mount the phone. CarPlay is still difficult to use

Not necessarily a frunk, but there’s room for storage for the charging cable up there. *might not be possible on AWD model

Dedicated buttons/knobs for HVAC, seat and steering wheel heat. Possibly driving modes

Steering wheel buttons/controls aren’t at the correct angle. If my thumb came out of the top of my hand, maybe it’d be OK. Let’s change that

The mirror/door lock panel on the driver's door is a fine idea. I'm glad an intern had a chance to brainstorm. But let's just make this regular buttons and knobs, OK?

The charging port needs a little light on the top, to illuminate the jack. So many lights on this car, and not one there…

While we’re on the charging port, the door feels like it’s just going to fall off the car if I breathe on it wrong. Conversley, it feels like I’ve got to rip the charger out of the car. I’m never quite sure if it’s locked in or not. Odd tolerances and feel in this part of the car

AND, while we’re on the charging port, on the US version it needs to go on the driver’s side. Preferably in front of the door - but I’d accept behind the passenger door. Huge PITA with it where it is

I'd really like a more compliant ride. It's a little too truck-y for me. It might be the 20" wheels on my 1st Edition, but there's some suspension/shock work that can be done too.
 

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ID.4 Pro, Mythos Black
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@Bubbajet Question regarding volume and temperature control not being lit up ( I don't have my car yet):
1. Isn't the volume controlled by the steering wheel up and down buttons that are lit up? If so, why use the one on the dash?
2. Does it not work if you tell the car to set temperature settings with "Hello ID4"? I saw this feature in the videos.

Of course I agree with you that all buttons should have light when it's dark
 

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@Bubbajet Question regarding volume and temperature control not being lit up ( I don't have my car yet):
1. Isn't the volume controlled by the steering wheel up and down buttons that are lit up? If so, why use the one on the dash?
2. Does it not work if you tell the car to set temperature settings with "Hello ID4"? I saw this feature in the videos.

Of course I agree with you that all buttons should have light when it's dark
Good questions!

1. Yep, the steering wheel buttons are illuminated, and I use this for volume almost every time. The exception: if you want to mute or silence the audio quickly, since there's no mute button the fastest way I've found is to quickly swipe right to left on the slider below the screen.

2. This is the more important one to me, since there's no other physical button to control temperature. Yes, you can "Hello ID" the car and do it this way. And it works. But it works slowly. There's cognitive load while you wonder if the car heard you, did it understand you, and did it perform the correct action. Also, your music/podcast/other audio will dip - if you wanted to hear something, you're going to miss 10-15 seconds of it. If the car doesn't understand you, there's further thought about why not, how to change what you said. All of this is to say that a physical control that you can reach just works. Every time. Quickly.

It's early days of electric cars, and manufacturers are trying to out-tech each other. Great! Some things belong in a menu on a screen, or can be voice controlled. But a few things, that we use almost every time we get in the car, shouldn't be on a screen or capacitive: Audio on/off/mute/volume; cabin temp, AC, recirculate, defrost/defog; seat and steering wheel heat (not every time, but you've got gloves on if you need them and a capacitive screen isn't great); cruise control; gear selection.

All my opinion. Your miles/kWH may vary. The car is still a pretty darn good car, and I'm enjoying owning it. It's really fun to drive - and it's even more fun to punch it from a stoplight with a muscle car next to you! But as a first effort, it's got more design errors than it should have.
 

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Unfortunately I picked up a nail and lost pressure in one of my tires. So I had to use the air compressor and 12v plug in the cargo area for the first time. Really really dumb design here - You have to be sitting in the drivers seat for the 12V plug to be active. So I had to clamp on the air compressor hose, walk around and sit in the driver's seat and try to guess when it was full. That 12V should be active all the time. As soon as you get out of the seat, the car senses the lack of weight in the seat and turns it off. Good luck using the plug when you are by yourself! Hopefully this could be changed in a software update or at least given an option to manually turn it on in the settings menu.
 

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Unfortunately I picked up a nail and lost pressure in one of my tires. So I had to use the air compressor and 12v plug in the cargo area for the first time. Really really dumb design here - You have to be sitting in the drivers seat for the 12V plug to be active. So I had to clamp on the air compressor hose, walk around and sit in the driver's seat and try to guess when it was full. That 12V should be active all the time. As soon as you get out of the seat, the car senses the lack of weight in the seat and turns it off. Good luck using the plug when you are by yourself! Hopefully this could be changed in a software update or at least given an option to manually turn it on in the settings menu.
Turns out if you don't sit in the seat and you press the "start engine" button, the outlet will stay on. But if you sit in the seat and press it, it will turn off when you stand up. So we have a fix! Now it seems like the car will intermittently beep and give an alert that the ignition is on, so i'm not sure this would would for a long period of time, but I have not tested that.
 

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If I were a betting man, I'd put money on VW facing a lawsuit over the unlit HVAC and volume buttons at some point. It's darn near impossible to quickly change temperature at night. Someone will inevitably get in an accident because of this - and it's off to the races. VW will lose, too.

I'm hopeful for a recall on these specific unlit buttons. They're an actual hazard.
I have had no issue with the heat and vol control. I use the steering wheel vol control and I just know where the heat/
AC control is by feel. BUT they really should lighted!
 

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I'm going to add a few things I'd like to see fixed:

Current model, with OTA fixes:

Speed sensitive volume needs to be more dramatic.

Would love more control over audio than "Bass/Mid/Treble."

Rear view camera needs to be improved. While this is also a hardware thing, increasing the brightness to max helps a lot along with a bit of contrast tweaking. I think software could do at least something.

On occasion, my car will chime at me on the way out and ask me to turn off the lights - but not tell me which ones! Since they're all automated, and touch buttons with inscrutable lights, the screen needs to tell me which lights are on. Further, this seems to only happen as I'm getting out of the seat. It's on the screen for a second or two, and when I look back I see...nothing. Fix this, please?

A CarNet thing: if I use Siri to start the HVAC in the car, it defaults to 72 degrees F - even though I've got 76F set in the app. Further, the CarNet app makes Siri ask me for confirmation. Yes, I do want that on. That's why I asked! I don't mind a confirmation notification that it's on, but don't ask me twice!

Also CarNet: I've only got one car. Why do I have to open the app (iOS), authenticating for it to do so, then authenticate again for my one car? CarNet needs a way to 1. accept that if my phone is unlocked I have authenticated and 2. default to a specific car.

Future models:

The wing over the rear window needs a slot in it to divert airflow over the window. Water just hangs out there in the rain. Yes, there's a wiper, but airflow would help and be free...and not leave long-term grooves on the glass.
 
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