Bjørn Nyland is doing winter range testing with the ID. Buzz 82 kWh model.
Driving my usual commute (1/2 time at ~75 MPH, 1/2 time at ~40 MPH), the initial Guess-O-Meter reading on my 2021 AWD Pro S is down to 151 miles in the mornings. This morning it was 21°F / -6°C in New Hampshire.I'm cautiously optimistic my future EV (several still on order, including ID.4, now for the past 8 months) will be able to meet my expectations in this type of weather. We haven't had a particularly cold northeast winter in a while, but we already have had a stretch of <25F weather for the past few days. Late January into February usually brings a few week-long stretches of <0F. I'd love to have more sub-zero F (-20C and below) temperature data to put my mind at ease that this car won't be a mistake.
When you're down below freezing, I'm not sure a heat pump helps.Heatpump is crucial for keeping decent range in winter. VW ID.4s in this test were NOT equipped with a heatpump:
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Winter & Cold Weather EV Range Loss in 7,000 Cars
The bad news is that all electric cars experience some degree of range loss in cold weather. The good news is that this range loss is temporary.www.recurrentauto.com
'Depends whether it's dumping all to the radiator or not, doesn't it?I wonder how much heat is really there to use. My cooling loop temperature always hovers slightly above ambient in the winter.
FYI: The 2011-2016 Volts use the same 5KW value.In the only plug-in passenger van in America (the Pacifica Hybrid), the coolant heater which warms the cabin also draws 5 kW from the battery. That's an interesting coincidence with the Buzz and ID.4. Must be some sort of calculated value?
Frost build up in the evaporator is still a problem and no refrigerant can beat Sadi Carnot.One reason R744 is making a comeback. Heat pumps designed to operate down in the -20C range are dependent on R744 to get a useful COP at those temps.
Of course heat pumps are heat engines, they're just running in reverse. And I never claimed they violated thermodynamics, I was just (obliquely) making that point that pumping heat from a colder reservoir to a warmer reservoir takes more and more energy as the cold reservoir gets colder, just as Carnot predicts.Not sure what you are getting at with the reference to Carnot. Heat pumps are not heat engines in the Carnot sense
Right! That's why heat pumps operating in the regime where their evaporators go below 32°F/0°C MUST have some way of defrosting their evaporator coils (whether its an external electric heater or briefly running in cooling mode or what-have-you). As you say, once the evaporator coil is full of frost, it's not going to acquire much heat from the air that can no longer pass through it.COP of 1 at ultra cold temperatures is perfectly acceptable to me as well, but at those temperatures, a completely frozen evaporator would stop the heat transfer entirely, no?
Thank you for that clarification — That's EXACTLY the situation that I expected.If equipped with heat pump it will use #6 heat exchanger block for heat harvest from battery pack to assist in cabin heating.
Just to get this completely explicit:#6 is heat exchanger block .....refrigerant to coolant ( heating or cooling if necessary)
The picture doesn't show that, though, does it? It shows hot fluid entering this heat exchanger and cool fluid leaving it. (It also ignores the fact that the PTC Heater heats the fluid, but showing heating/cooling on the same diagram was probably viewed as too confusing).It dumps any waste heat into the battery, nothing in AC loop. There is not much heat because the car is so efficient, so it rarely warms the battery above 50F if its <32F ambient. At a coolant temperature of 59°F (15°C) or higher the thermostat opens, allowing battery coolant to flow to the radiator (passive cooling). It starts using the AC loop to cool the battery at 86°F (during charging) or 95F when driving.