Bjørn Nyland is doing winter range testing with the ID. Buzz 82 kWh model.
Agreed that frost can hurt efficiency, but ultimately the goal is to outdo electric heaters and other refrigerants. From the research I linked:Frost build up in the evaporator is still a problem and no refrigerant can beat Sadi Carnot.
COP of 2 at -20C is quite acceptable. And still using half the energy of an electric heater for the same output.Under −20℃ ambient temperature with external air circulation, the maximum heating capacity is 7502 W with COP of 2.16.
COP of 1 at ultra cold temperatures is perfectly acceptable to me as well, but at those temperatures, a completely frozen evaporator would stop the heat transfer entirely, no? I guess you're saying that R744 wouldn't suffer those consequences because it is CO2 based and a properly balanced system should be able to provide a larger efficient operating range without potentially freezing.COP of 2 at -20C is quite acceptable.
Of course heat pumps are heat engines, they're just running in reverse. And I never claimed they violated thermodynamics, I was just (obliquely) making that point that pumping heat from a colder reservoir to a warmer reservoir takes more and more energy as the cold reservoir gets colder, just as Carnot predicts.Not sure what you are getting at with the reference to Carnot. Heat pumps are not heat engines in the Carnot sense
Right! That's why heat pumps operating in the regime where their evaporators go below 32°F/0°C MUST have some way of defrosting their evaporator coils (whether its an external electric heater or briefly running in cooling mode or what-have-you). As you say, once the evaporator coil is full of frost, it's not going to acquire much heat from the air that can no longer pass through it.COP of 1 at ultra cold temperatures is perfectly acceptable to me as well, but at those temperatures, a completely frozen evaporator would stop the heat transfer entirely, no?
Fair enough.Of course heat pumps are heat engines, they're just running in reverse.
And I don’t think anyone has disputed the reality of the bolded bit. It’s precisely because of that reality that using different refrigerants provides benefits in the first place. Ones with better heat capacity to maintain a useful COP in a wider temperature range for example.And I never claimed they violated thermodynamics, I was just (obliquely) making that point that pumping heat from a colder reservoir to a warmer reservoir takes more and more energy as the cold reservoir gets colder, just as Carnot predicts.
If we just want a COP of 1, electric heaters get us there. But it means dealing with the range drops in winter we see today when you use the heater. So being able to use a heat pump in these conditions means saving power, and improving winter range of EVs. It’s not so much that R744 doesn’t suffer the consequences, but rather it’s able to maintain a useful COP in worse conditions than the refrigerants we’ve been using in residential applications for a while. So if you want a heat pump that works in sub zero C temperatures, using the right refrigerant helps. The cost is that R744, being CO2, requires high pressures to operate, so it can be a liquid rather than shifting directly between solid and gas. So it’s not a drop-in replacement for other refrigerants, you need to use a heat pump built for those higher pressures.COP of 1 at ultra cold temperatures is perfectly acceptable to me as well, but at those temperatures, a completely frozen evaporator would stop the heat transfer entirely, no? I guess you're saying that R744 wouldn't suffer those consequences because it is CO2 based and a properly balanced system should be able to provide a larger efficient operating range without potentially freezing.
In summary, the defrost initiation criteria of the conventional com-
mercial HPs are entirely unsuitable for EVHPs, and it is imminent to find
a new efficient and accurate defrost initiation criterion.
Here's part 2 that he posted about 8 hours agoYes, the PTC cabin heater pulls 5 kW:
The Chevy bolt I used to own pulled 7kW. It was pretty exciting to watch the gom drop when you turned it on…According to Byorn, the heating system was pulling 5kW. That's a lot
Where did you get that idea? If you look at page 43 of the High Voltage SSP, there is a heat exchanger for the HVAC condenser that does exactly that… transfer heat from the coolant loop into the cabin.What probably DOES help, at least a little, is to recycle the waste heat from the drive into the passenger compartment (assuming that there's any to spare after heating the battery). But the ID.4 doesn't do that, either.
Part 3 is up now and I'm sure there will be many others after this.Here's part 2 that he posted about 8 hours ago
Before spreading wrong information, i would advise you to take look at pdf files posted on this forum...there are schematics for all different types of heating and heat pumps.When you're down below freezing, I'm not sure a heat pump helps.
What probably DOES help, at least a little, is to recycle the waste heat from the drive into the passenger compartment (assuming that there's any to spare after heating the battery). But the ID.4 doesn't do that, either.
If equipped with heat pump it will use #6 heat exchanger block for heat harvest from battery pack to assist in cabin heating.Several folks have told me that I'm wrong about waste heat from the electrical system not being able to be discharged into the passenger cabin of the ID.4.
I do not for a moment claim that I am never wrong, but I guess I do need further explanation.
Here's the diagram of the non-heat-pumped ID.4's battery and electric drive cooling system from MC-10186407-0001.pdf, the “Self Study Program 811213 The High-Voltage System in the ID.4”:
View attachment 18970
The only question is what is component 6, the “Heat Exchanger for Heat Condenser”? To what does that exchange heat?
Meanwhile, please note that there doesn't seem to be any direct path for waste heat from the drive electronics to reach the cabin air; the waste could warm the battery and any remaining heat in the battery exhaust coolant that isn't routed right back to the drive electronics could reach the mysterious component 6, but that's a pretty indirect path.
Thank you for that clarification — That's EXACTLY the situation that I expected.If equipped with heat pump it will use #6 heat exchanger block for heat harvest from battery pack to assist in cabin heating.
#6 is heat exchanger block .....refrigerant to coolant ( heating or cooling if necessary)Thank you for that clarification — That's EXACTLY the situation that I expected.
Just to get this completely explicit:#6 is heat exchanger block .....refrigerant to coolant ( heating or cooling if necessary)
It dumps any waste heat into the battery, nothing in AC loop. There is not much heat because the car is so efficient, so it rarely warms the battery above 50F if its <32F ambient. At a coolant temperature of 59°F (15°C) or higher the thermostat opens, allowing battery coolant to flow to the radiator (passive cooling). It starts using the AC loop to cool the battery at 86°F (during charging) or 95F when driving.So in a North American car without a heat pump, which portion of the Air Conditioning refrigerant loop is this heat exchanger dumping its heat into?
No heat pump...heat exchanger is used only when air conditioning is called for cooling HV battery pack....heat would be dumped to the refrigerant.Just to get this completely explicit:
So in a North American car without a heat pump, which portion of the Air Conditioning refrigerant loop is this heat exchanger dumping its heat into? (I'd assume a cool/cold part of the refrigerant loop?)
The picture doesn't show that, though, does it? It shows hot fluid entering this heat exchanger and cool fluid leaving it. (It also ignores the fact that the PTC Heater heats the fluid, but showing heating/cooling on the same diagram was probably viewed as too confusing).It dumps any waste heat into the battery, nothing in AC loop. There is not much heat because the car is so efficient, so it rarely warms the battery above 50F if its <32F ambient. At a coolant temperature of 59°F (15°C) or higher the thermostat opens, allowing battery coolant to flow to the radiator (passive cooling). It starts using the AC loop to cool the battery at 86°F (during charging) or 95F when driving.
That is because that loop is only used for cooling the battery, as I described. Those temps and description are all from the NHTSA doc.The picture doesn't show that, though, does it? It shows hot fluid entering this heat exchanger and cool fluid leaving it.