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You can always buy good quality EVSE that has option to to set various different current ratings...and depending on the breaker... wiring ...available load on the residence if all consumer goods are running to fine adjust current ratings. This will also help for people who want to charge at lower current rates in the summer vs winter.
They come in many variations from deep switches to on board display settings and some have app that you can change this. No need to be scared whatever you choose...once learned how to change deep switches......disconnect from EV turn power supply off test will voltmeter there is no voltage still. Change re energize plug to EV ( or different instructions depending on the model) and your EV will pull what EVSE is set now.
This is very important option and many of you should research and go after this type of EVSE.
 

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I'd recommend a smart one that supports the OCPP Protocol.
You now see that e.g. Home Assistant supports plugins for "wall box" chargers that allow you to let the car charge by the amount the solar panels are generating, only charge in low rate periods etc.
as it is managed via OCPP over a local network connection, you are not stuck to a paid cloud service, and can do much more management yourself. Home Assistant allows for all automation :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
This will also help for people who want to charge at lower current rates in the summer vs winter.
My JuiceBox is set to 40A and plugged into a 14-50 outlet. Do you think this should be reduced for the summer? I have been using it like this since I installed it several months ago.
 

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My JuiceBox is set to 40A and plugged into a 14-50 outlet. Do you think this should be reduced for the summer? I have been using it like this since I installed it several months ago.
How much cooling do you hear while charging?
might want to track the battery temp during the charge and then you can make the best conclusion yourself :) any cooling or heating is simply wasted energy
 

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My JuiceBox is set to 40A and plugged into a 14-50 outlet. Do you think this should be reduced for the summer? I have been using it like this since I installed it several months ago.
You have to try it and see what fits your lifestyle ....i would start with 24 amp.
Charging at 48 amp is no problem besides making fan kicking on more often in hot weather or hot garage...battery conditioning is another topic. I personally charge Tesla and ID4 at 24 amp summer and full amp winter...or if my schedule is running short i will switch to max current. If you have more specific questions i will answer when have chance.
 

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How much cooling do you hear while charging?
might want to track the battery temp during the charge and then you can make the best conclusion yourself :) any cooling or heating is simply wasted energy
Thank you great point but for this you will need obd2 dongle and apl that can read various PIDs.
I'm sure there will threads popping out with this information by some die hard EV enthusiasts.
 

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Thank you great point but for this you will need obd2 dongle and apl that can read various PIDs.
I'm sure there will threads popping out with this information by some die hard EV enthusiasts.
Car scanner and or EV notify is free or a few $, and plenty of dongles around that work actually.
(though also plenty that are really bad knock offs)
 

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You have to try it and see what fits your lifestyle ....i would start with 24 amp.
I figured this would be a good opportunity to see how much the "Reduce AC charg. current" button reduces current.
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Wow, takes it all the way down to 8 A! I guess I'll open the Grizzl-e and set the dip switches instead of using the reduce current button.
 

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Car scanner and or EV notify is free or a few $, and plenty of dongles around that work actually.
(though also plenty that are really bad knock offs)
I would be very careful around choosing cheap dongles.... OBDLink MX and MX+ for IPHONE are good quality.....or you can use laptop and ROS Tech as aftermarket alternative or if money is not issue VW service scanner.
Regarding app i don't use them...but for people seeking custom PIDs....look for threads on ID3 and ID4 on German forums.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
You have to try it and see what fits your lifestyle ....i would start with 24 amp.
Charging at 48 amp is no problem besides making fan kicking on more often in hot weather or hot garage...battery conditioning is another topic. I personally charge Tesla and ID4 at 24 amp summer and full amp winter...or if my schedule is running short i will switch to max current. If you have more specific questions i will answer when have chance.
I will reduce it to 24 for the summer. We mostly charge at EA but do use the JuiceBox to add a few miles when we need it. I think we will be able to live with a slower rate.
 

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id.4 White FE
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LEFAN 40amp EVSE on a 50amp circuit gets me up to 38mph charging speed. I also use my factory id4 charger on a 20amp 240volt circuit to get 7mph of charging speed.
 

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Happy owner of a blue ID.4 FE
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I posted this in another thread a while ago, I think, but here we go: Mustart Travelmate in its wall bracket and connector holstered, plugged into a new 14-50 outlet. Two other “smart connectors“ (10-30 and 5-15) and the bag sit ready on a workbench for road trips, at which time I’ll unplug the unit and stow everything in the back of the car.
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2018 Chevy Bolt (ID4 future owner?)
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I posted this in another thread a while ago, I think, but here we go: Mustart Travelmate in its wall bracket and connector holstered, plugged into a new 14-50 outlet. Two other “smart connectors“ (10-30 and 5-15) and the bag sit ready on a workbench for road trips, at which time I’ll unplug the unit and stow everything in the back of the car.
I hope you have better luck with that that a guy on the Bolt forum who recently had a Mustart melt his J1772 port. They are apparently going take care of the damage, but what a hassle!
 

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I bought a Grizzl-e Classic and have been pleased with it so far. Seems very solidly constructed and has a 3 year warranty (that you can pay extra to increase to 5 years.) The unit can be set to 16, 24, 32 or 40 amps and you can order with either a 6-50 or 14-50 plug. So far it has been working great and been hassle-free.
 

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VW ID.4 Pro S
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I bought a Grizzl-e Classic and have been pleased with it so far. Seems very solidly constructed and has a 3 year warranty (that you can pay extra to increase to 5 years.) The unit can be set to 16, 24, 32 or 40 amps and you can order with either a 6-50 or 14-50 plug. So far it has been working great and been hassle-free.
I can second this. The Grizzl-E Classic has performed great so far. I have access to a 14-50 NEMA Plug in my apartment complex parking garage and it is rated at 40 amps. The Grizzl-E fits perfectly in the sub-compartment in the back of my ID.4.

Sincerely,

Adam J. Cook
 

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Pro S w/Gradient AWD
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We are getting our FE tomorrow and I have to set up an L2 charger. I will get a plug-in and install the outlet myself. What do you think about your charger? Do I really need a smart one like Juice Box or can I get away with a basic one? Is WIFi worth it or will I get the same info from the car app? This is our first BEV so I am totally clueless and any advice or opinions will be greatly appreciated.
I just purchased and had a Juice Box 32AMP unit installed. No car yet, but I’m ready.
 

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I just got my TOU rates in south NV. From 1 PM to 7 PM weekdays I‘m at $.35 but other than that I’m from $.053 to my overnight EV rate of $.048. Without TOU I was at $.103
Thanks for that. I installed my juicebox but have only used it once, as I'm on a long term work trip in LA.
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