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It's going to be interesting when the first [edition] wave of pre-owned becomes common. Many will have much more worn batteries than others, with no real way for a prospective buyer to know.

Yes, at the 5-7 year hence point, post USA FE intro of March 2021, this forum is going to be very interesting indeed. I can just imagine the thread titles .... :unsure:
 

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It's going to be interesting when the first [edition] wave of pre-owned becomes common. Many will have much more worn batteries than others, with no real way for a prospective buyer to know.

Yes, at the 5-7 year hence point, post USA FE intro of March 2021, this forum is going to be very interesting indeed. I can just imagine the thread titles .... :unsure:
I think that the DOT or someone in the government should probably establish and require some standard way of measuring battery SoH for EVs so that buyers can make informed decisions. Otherwise, like you say, buyers are essentially buying a black box without really knowing the state of the materials inside.
 

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2019 Leaf SL+, waiting on an ID.4 AWD ProS, Dusk Blue
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I think that the DOT or someone in the government should probably establish and require some standard way of measuring battery SoH for EVs so that buyers can make informed decisions. Otherwise, like you say, buyers are essentially buying a black box without really knowing the state of the materials inside.
For my Leaf, I got LeafSpy and the necessary dongle and that gives lots of information. I used it after I bought my Leaf (because I wasn't near the car to test it before) and all the information was exactly what the previous owner had told me. When we bought my son's Leaf, we did a check and the car was as advertised: basically brand new (this was the 2020 with 28 miles).

Is there something similar for the ID.4?
 

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2021 AWD Pro S
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Is there something similar for the ID.4?
Yes a dongle and the car scanner app. Its not as good as LeafSpy, maybe someday there will be a similar app for VW. See these or other threads where some of us are already tracking our degradation as it happens.
 

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It's going to be interesting when the first [edition] wave of pre-owned becomes common. Many will have much more worn batteries than others, with no real way for a prospective buyer to know.

Yes, at the 5-7 year hence point, post USA FE intro of March 2021, this forum is going to be very interesting indeed. I can just imagine the thread titles .... :unsure:
Educated will know how to check out SOH, but i do agree many will be disappointed if they didn't check before buying.
 

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Buying a used EV car does not seem like a wise choice to me at the moment when you see the prices on the Used car market.
But I wonder if here of the forum members with the experiences who would dare to buy a Used ID4 of eg 4 years old with 50000miles on the counter.
 

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Definitely agree - and it's so much easier to leave the car set to charge to 80% or even 70% and just toss it on the charger at night without thinking about it... pull it off in the morning and go. Plus, if you buy the EVSE for your home this year, you can still get a 30% tax credit (subject to all normal tax credit disclaimers, etc.)
I'm confused about this credit. Is the revised/new one any evse or is it only chargepoint?
 

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But I wonder if here of the forum members with the experiences who would dare to buy a Used ID4 of eg 4 years old with 50000miles on the counter.
I would buy it if I could keep it for a day needed to do a proper test of the battery SOH with my dongle. This means a discharge to < 10% then charge > 90% then wait a few hours.
 

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Educated will know how to check out SOH, but i do agree many will be disappointed if they didn't check before buying.
Normally I always sell my car after 2 years.
This always happened by just posting an ad and selling it privately.
Before every sale, the car must then be inspected on 150 points in order to have the mandatory EU carpass certificate for the confidence of the buyer.
But now it will be more difficult and I fear having to sell it to my dealer because I think few people have the confidence to buy a used EV.
Another solution might be to have the battery tested at the dealer to have some kind of certificate.
 

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I would buy it if I could keep it for a day needed to do a proper test of the battery SOH with my dongle. This means a discharge to < 10% then charge > 90% then wait a few hours.
If it is a car from the dealer this should not be a problem to test it for a day.
But if it's a private sale then the owner will have a hard time lend it to a stranger
 

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But if it's a private sale then the owner will have a hard time lend it to a stranger
For this case I would still check the SOH with my dongle and app since that only takes about a minute, and adjust down the price for the fact that the battery capacity shown may be inaccurate by a few kwh.
 

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For this case I would still check the SOH with my dongle and app since that only takes about a minute, and adjust down the price for the fact that the battery capacity shown may be inaccurate by a few kwh.
IMO, ideally, a buyer of a used EV shouldn't need any special knowledge or equipment to know such an important fact about an EV as battery SoH. This info should be as readily available for a used EV as the odometer reading. But since we're obviously nowhere near that situation, in the meantime people will need their dongles and apps. Caveat emptor.
 

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Buying a used EV car does not seem like a wise choice to me at the moment when you see the prices on the Used car market.
But I wonder if here of the forum members with the experiences who would dare to buy a Used ID4 of eg 4 years old with 50000miles on the counter.
Sellers just need to have the “miles since charge” displayed, right? And if you don’t drive all across the country then a significantly weaker battery BEV is just fine for local driving even if it only charges to 150 miles.
 

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I'm confused about this credit. Is the revised/new one any evse or is it only chargepoint?
They just extended the old credit from 12/31/21 to 12/31/22 … starting in 2023 there are restrictions that limit it to low income census tracts, and possibly others…
 

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Sellers just need to have the “miles since charge” displayed, right?
That plus the miles since charge must be high >100 or 150 miles or its of little use. Most sellers keep them topped up so the GOM looks better, so miles since charge won't be much help. If they let you go for a long 150 mile test drive while you watch the SOC that is a way around having a dongle.
 

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If seller is refusing to pull SOH by the steps...you just pull it by dongle and negotiate price from there...... it will hurt the seller because buyer will have better position to negotiate.Going by GOM is bad idea about true SOH .... this can be manipulated easily by doing multiple drives for best efficiency.
 

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Normally I always sell my car after 2 years.
This always happened by just posting an ad and selling it privately.
Before every sale, the car must then be inspected on 150 points in order to have the mandatory EU carpass certificate for the confidence of the buyer.
But now it will be more difficult and I fear having to sell it to my dealer because I think few people have the confidence to buy a used EV.
Another solution might be to have the battery tested at the dealer to have some kind of certificate.
It is what they called delayed maintenance for 1st owner and nightmare for 2nd owner when there is only battery pack warranty left.
It will be risky for 2nd hand owner, especially people who buy way more than they can afford, and have no saving accounts or money on the side. So when something goes bad that is out of warranty it will usually be 3-8k dollars if propulsion unit or HV inverters, converters and other expensive items need to be replaced.
 

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It is what they called delayed maintenance for 1st owner and nightmare for 2nd owner when there is only battery pack warranty left.
It will be risky for 2nd hand owner, especially people who buy way more than they can afford, and have no saving accounts or money on the side. So when something goes bad that is out of warranty it will usually be 3-8k dollars if propulsion unit or HV inverters, converters and other expensive items need to be replaced.
I called my dealer yesterday because I have a Wecare contract of 8 years for maintenance, replaced parts and working hours with the exception of normal wearing parts such as tires, brakes, etc..
This monthly contract can be transferred to the new owners who buy the car.
 
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