If brakes are good, tires OK ....there is nothing besides inspection for leaks or damages...you already replaced some items..
.

 

Thanks, my worry is that dealer service departments must be under pressure to make money since EV cars require almost no maintenance. The 30,000 mile check is the first one that allows them to charge for the service. Will they be reasonable or is this an opportunity to make up for declining service work? I assume it will be labor time unless a problem item is found. I’m ok with that. However, it would be helpful to know the ballpark cost for this service.

 

Ok, I was able to get through to a service writer at my dealer. The cost for the 30,000 mile check is $320. To me it’s the cost of keeping up the warranty - like an insurance premium, I guess. The service guy also mentioned an official VW recall for software, but he said a software solution is not yet available. We all know about that, right?

 

What exactly do they do for a 30,000 mile service? there is no mandatory need to do it, you will still have a warranty.

In my mind a visual inspection of the tires and brakes and fluid levels... maybe a new cabin filter? (see YouTube for the how to do that)

There is no oil change, no tire rotation, no brake fluid exchange... there is nothing to do except a visual inspection.

 

Do they flush the brakes?

 

Brake fluid flush is recommended at 30k

 

I can't speak for the later model years, but on the 2021, brake fluid flush is time based: "3 years after registration and then every 2 years regardless of mileage."

 

When you lease a car, do you have to do the maintenance? For example, if you have a 30,000 mile lease, and turn it in at 29,999, are you ok--but at 30,001 you have to have done it?

 

My experience is no. The leasing company WILL send an inspector to inspect your car of course. And once you turn the car in, part of the dealer turn in fee and markup is to do any outstanding service, etc. That said, the lease agreement does obligate you to keep the car is good working order. So on any ICE lease I ever had, I never tried something like not changing oil, etc. etc. to see if anything happened.

 

I had a 20,000 mile service that was a bit more lengthy. They wanted to charge the car for about 20 minutes. They said they were going to see how much the car charged vs. how much it SHOULD charge over that time. Thus the 20k took about a half hour longer than the 10k. I read they perform that battery charge test on the 20k, 40k, 60k, etc.

That plus they wanted to change the cabin air filter. I bought the two-module HEPA filter direct from China, so I told them to leave it alone.

I'm coming up on the 30k service soon myself. I'll shop around before I pay $320!

 

It is not rocket science....if you have any mechanical knowledge and experience....inspection for coolant leaks....oil leaks.... brakes....brake lines.... hub end play bearing....half shaft boots...all orange cable integrity......suspension....steering rack and other items....you can use inspection ticket that they used before ( and don't check items that are related to ICE vehicle, like muffler or other nonsense).... you will feel better and more comfortable because you did all inspection by yourself. Things that need warranty attention do not try to repair your self. Things that require special tools or know how ....don't try to play with....let trained technicians do repair. Keep on record all inspections and work you preformed and if you replaced any parts Keep tickets. Try to make it organized like you are preforming inspection, repair or parts exchange to someone else. This way you have all on file if someone try to pinpoint finger at you or lack of maintenance.
Even for not experienced person this is not very hard.....you just need once someone to help you how to check various different points at the vehicle. And remember to use good quality lift and safety stops before going under the vehicle. There is PDF file for ID4 maintenance intervals and what items need replacement at age or mileage. Paying 300+ dollars for no any type of work besides inspection is nonsense.

 

Brake fluid flush is a bit time consuming/techical but as @VW TECHNICIAN well cites it's something most anyone can do themselves. As any other vehicle or home repair item it just comes down to desire, acquiring some knowledge and some specific tools. Once you do such you add it to your arsenal of capabilities.

Some knowledge (a positive pressure approach to bleeding; there is also a negative pressure procedure):

 

My dealer told me when I inquired 2 years ago that the 30,000 service was $80. I haven't asked lately but I will need it this summer.

 

I was charged $250 for my 30k service. It included a brake fluid replacement.

 

I purchased 30k service when leased the car. The MSRP was $50 but dealer charged $100. They were upset when they found out it is $50 only. They thought it should be more.

If you don't have service extension expect to pay several hundred dollars.

 

My 30,000 was about $110 at the selling dealer and I felt it was too much for hardly anything. I am coming up on 40,000 and am very leery of its cost.

 

If it was a brake fluid flush along with the other checks that sounds fair. There's of course a minimum hourly labor charge (brake bleeding a bit tedious) plus the cost of fluid.
Also Cabin Air Filter.

Did they itemize? If not be sure to ask next time.

 

Will do

 

I brought my ID.4 in for 30k service around 35K miles - was told need new air filter and brake line flush. I remember being quoted 75 for air filter - I declined knowing how easy they are to replace - found a new filter online for 25. Don't remember the cost of brake lines but it was in hundreds - I opted to wait and research if this is really needed - never did it on my ICE cars in the past. Will decide when I get to 40k.

 

The air filter is in the frunk, should be very easy to change yourself. The brake flush is needed to prevent corrosion, but probably OK to delay a year or so. With these EVs the brake fluid doesn't get hot enough to vaporize the moisture. Most EVs require a flush every two years.

 

Brake system flush is a pretty basic flat rate service item. Dealer should be able to give a specific quote that mentions the hours, plus the cost of the fluid. I bet it is in the neighborhood of an hour. Dealer hourly rate is probably posted on the wall somewhere.

 

Modern brake fluids do not support corrosion. Changing brake is a hold over from the past like changing oil every 2-3 thousand miles. I have two other vehicles that I have had for 10 years and I have never changed the brake fluid! But I use Dot 5 silicone brake fluid in them.

 

I think it's actually DOT 4 ISO Class 6 low viscosity.

Considering the extra complexity of the ID. brake system compared to earlier cars, which has to deal with not only conventional foot braking but also the automatic emergency braking and the ABS, and has to blend properly with the regenerative electric braking, my opinion is that this is a place where the manufacturer's recommendation should be followed exactly.

 

Sounds like I had an experience similar to others. The listed services provided included: Cabin Filter Replacement (which I will do my self next time it is needed), Flushing the brakes and doing a Multi-point inspection. The total cost was around $325 and the cabin filter was around $75 of that cost. I too thought the brakes needed to be flushed at 3 years, not 30K miles, then every 2 years there after. In fact, the dealership's own documentation stated as much. I didn't say anything because I wanted the dealer to support the EV transition, but I will think twice at 40K.

 

A year ago I picked up two (2) CAF's at the dealership parts dept for $70.

Very easy to replace oneself, especially thanks to our fellow member @fiehlsport

 

 

Mine at 30 and 40k was about the same 385-395. I'm skipping the 50k to save money. And doing the 60k since I heard it's about $1300.
Also I found out you don't need to do the smaller one or any for that matter to keep up on the warranty.

 

Mine at 30 and 40k was about the same 385-395. I'm skipping the 50k to save money. And doing the 60k since I heard it's about $1300.
Also I found out you don't need to do the smaller one or any for that matter to keep up on the warranty.

$1300? What could they possibly do for that kind of money? Change the timing belt?

 

I know. It's ridiculous