Looking at buying a car remotely before March, been emailing a few different dealerships for 2023 Pro and Pro S models, which I'm trying to keep under 45k for state tax exemption.

One dealer wrote back, rather brusquely, and said if we wire the full cash amount in the next day, he can get a white Pro MSRP down below 45k. I told him it'd take a few days, if I wanted to move forward. Now I see the dealership has a Pro S at 47k, so thinking of asking him to drop that below MSRP of $45k and can make up the difference with some add ons.

2 questions:
1. I've never bought a new car, how sketchy is it that he's requesting full wire in cash immediately? I'm not trading in, and will need new insurance first, but I don't want to finance, so the idea of paying cash quickly doesn't seem completely outside the norm. I'm also outside the country until April, and he said we could keep it on the lot until then, or have somebody else pick it up if it's paid in full.

2. What would be recommended/resonable add-ons worth negotiating that would keep the dealer interested, and the Pro S MSRP under 45k? Price seems like a good deal, so I'm willing to cover that 2k difference.

Any and all advice much appreciated.

Damn, of course the Pro S is a 2022.

 

Don't buy a car without seeing it first. Don't wire money away in a hurry. This will be one of the biggest transactions you'll do in your life, so it should probably be done in person and not over e-mail.

 

Looking at buying a car remotely before March, been emailing a few different dealerships for 2023 Pro and Pro S models, which I'm trying to keep under 45k for state tax exemption.

One dealer wrote back, rather brusquely, and said if we wire the full cash amount in the next day, he can get a white Pro MSRP down below 45k. I told him it'd take a few days, if I wanted to move forward. Now I see the dealership has a Pro S at 47k, so thinking of asking him to drop that below MSRP of $45k and can make up the difference with some add ons.

2 questions:
1. I've never bought a new car, how sketchy is it that he's requesting full wire in cash immediately? I'm not trading in, and will need new insurance first, but I don't want to finance, so the idea of paying cash quickly doesn't seem completely outside the norm. I'm also outside the country until April, and he said we could keep it on the lot until then, or have somebody else pick it up if it's paid in full.

2. What would be recommended/resonable add-ons worth negotiating that would keep the dealer interested, and the Pro S MSRP under 45k? Price seems like a good deal, so I'm willing to cover that 2k difference.

Any and all advice much appreciated.

Guess you missed this "sticky" thread:

Purchasing Best Practices - How To Pay No More Than MSRP

Why am I writing this post: Back in 2015, VW got caught cheating on Diesel emissions on what became Dieselgate. At the time, there were several options on how to deal with the cars sold. One of them was for VW to buy back their cars. I had at the time, a 2010 Jetta Sportwagen TDI and a 2013...

www.vwidtalk.com

 

It's difficult to negotiate with one foot only half in. I suspect the salesman senses this, to, and possibility isn't giving his full attention to you.

I see the position you're in. Unfortunately the March battery guidance deadline isn't a real thing yet, we have no start date, it may get delayed again, or it may be sprung at us with no notice and catch everybody off-guard.

I'd say this: if I was going the same route you're going, first fully commit. I have no qualms buying a new car sight-unseen from a dealership. There's some risk, but it's not terrible risk. I'd be ok with those odds and the remedies available if something is wrong with the car (warranty, lemon laws, dealer goodwill).

If you commit, then your best tactic is to reach out to a couple of dealerships, and after finding some who are willing to talk to you and make offers, play then off of each other.

In the same way that right now you feel rushed and up against a deadline? Make them feel that pressure instead, that if they don't beat the offer, you'll take the other guy's deal.

But the primary thing is your mindset. If you enter into a negotiation knowing you're going to follow through, you'll feel more confident and be more successful than if you go into it with uncertainty and are counting in the salesman to convince you it's a good deal – if he even gives you the time of day.

You have to admit, out of country and wire transfers raises everyone's guard.

 

Thanks for this, quite helpful and thoughtful. Definitely trying to reach out to a few other dealers, but responding to a random email request and asking for MSRP under $45k for the Pro hasn't tempted many it seems. Even though I'm seeing some listed at $43k MSRP directly on their websites.

I did buy my house remotely during COVID, so that aspect doesn't phase me as much. More that car salesman and the process have such a worse reputation than realtors.

The lack of clarity on the March battery guidance is, as you intuited, the major stumbling block to being confident enough to set a threshold for purchasing and pulling the trigger when it's met. With the ongoing uncertainty on the guidance, it's hard to make that final decision, even if conditions are met.

Will get a few additional quotes and see what negotiations that can spur.

Any suggestions on specific add-ons one would recommend for the ID.4 to sweeten the deal? A trailer hitch? Other practical aspects like that. No vin etching.

 

Is there any reasonable alternative to paying by wire transfer if you aren't here to pay "in person"? It still makes me wary but I don't see another option if you must buy now.

 

What makes you wary about it? I presume I'd have all the paperwork signed and documented ahead of time ,the wire transfer information verified directly by the dealer, and it would be quite quick as US bank to US bank.

 

Insist on the IRA Section 30D Report to get your IRS Tax Credit . Still waiting for mine from the dealership since early and they keep saying wrongly that the sales sticker is enough.

 

In all likelihood, I expect the IRS will never ask for this document or require it to be attached to the tax forms, but in the event the dealership doesn't do their end of the paperwork and submit properly, the customer's copy may be the fallback.

Sheesh... I'd print out the page where the IRS clearly outline this dealership responsibility, plus a sample letter, and gently remind them of the "doc fee" you paid and that you expect to get your document. 😉

 

Received two lease quotes from dealers for 2022 Pro S. The cheaper car is supposedly a Pro S Gradient package. Anybody have comments/suggestions on whether they're a decent deal? MF of .0038 on second one seems quite high. I haven't asked about termination fees or confirmed I can pay off the lease sooner w/out the outstanding interest being charged.

 

The first lease shows a Market Value Selling Price of $48,905. That sounds like an inflated price that is over MSRP sticker price. If so, then the $3,000 discount is not so good. Of course it is the final Net Selling price that matters.

Buying out the lease early should be no problem. Many have done it after about 2 months. Gives VW time to get all the paperwork and title back from the state. The payoff should show on your account when you sign in. You only pay interest for the time you are leasing the car. Once you pay it off the interest stops. No need to worry much about the Money Factor if you intend to pay it off in two months.

Also, their $7500 lease deals expire on 2/28/23. VW may extend, or they may not.