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Upgrade ID.4 sound system

291K views 926 replies 130 participants last post by  Atlant  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi everyone,

Since I got my ID.4 I really find the VW put a subpar sound system in it, so I changed mine to for higher grad speakers.

Please find the tutorial to do that by yourself at Upgrade the VW ID.4 audio system – Allmost Useless Tips

Hope it will provide you with plenty of great sound for your drives.

(edit 05/27/2023 added the tutorial as PDF file in case my web server go down)
 

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#3 ·
Hi everyone,

Since I got my ID.4 I really find the VW put a subpar sound system in it, so I changed mine to for higher grad speakers.

Please find the tutorial to do that by yourself at Upgrade the VW ID.4 audio system – Allmost Useless Tips

Hope it will provide you with plenty of great sound for your drives.
This is so awesome - thank you!
I can't stand the stock audio, and I'm going to send your page to a local audio installer for a quote.
 
#11 ·
Hi everyone,

Since I got my ID.4 I really find the VW put a subpar sound system in it, so I changed mine to for higher grad speakers.

Please find the tutorial to do that by yourself at Upgrade the VW ID.4 audio system – Allmost Useless Tips

Hope it will provide you with plenty of great sound for your drives.
Hi Pro, thanks for the great information. I love your choice of audio kit - superb! I have a question on power consumption and load on the battery with the additional power Amp. Do you notice additional battery drainage? The reason I ask is that I have a similar Focal speaker setup in my ICE Subaru and it pulls a lot of load from my battery. I have identical front and rear Focal's PS 165's power by a JL Audio Amp using twin DSP's and TwK-88's for tuning the head unit. The sound is fantastic, but it does place a noticeable load on my ICE battery.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I’ve used Focal speakers in the past in some cars and been really happy with them. Turns out, they have several kits for the ID.3/ID.4!

 
#24 ·
Stay away from the guys in blue and yellow. I'll be interested in what Crutchfield comes up with once they get their hands on one.
 
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#28 ·
I'm a little put off by the reviews of those Focal separates (IS 165VW) - a number of people say that the metal dome tweeter is harsh. I was thinking about the Morel Tempo Ultra 602 component speakers instead, but Crutchfield says they are discontinued and the VW fit is less certain.
 
#32 ·
Yes, you are right, it is costly but not more than a "Deluxe audio" that car manufacturers usually offer as option to their cars. But these kits ( the ones I installed ) sound way better than the Harman option of the I3 for example.

Anyway, the instructions I gave are correct for about any kit, I'm pretty sure that some brand can be found in the US for way less money than Focal, but for me Focal is a must have :). As I live in France it is pretty easy to source.
 
#33 ·
I just received the Summer 2021 Crutchfield catalog. Pages 24-25 has a feature on upgrading the audio system in a VW Atlas. Not the same vehicle, but there is VW specific information, plus reading the article gives a good idea as to what a higher end sound system consists of. The DSP “is the key to the entire system”.

I could see going upgraded speakers, DSP, and an amp. Maybe a powered sub under a seat if there’s space for it.
 
#34 ·
#36 ·
Hi everyone,

Since I got my ID.4 I really find the VW put a subpar sound system in it, so I changed mine to for higher grad speakers.

Please find the tutorial to do that by yourself at Upgrade the VW ID.4 audio system – Allmost Useless Tips

Hope it will provide you with plenty of great sound for your drives.
this is fantastic help, thanks! Do you happen to know what the color codes are for the front/back speakers themselves? I’m giving a go at installing a subwoofer, and want to tap the lines to use a LOC.
 
#37 · (Edited)
Well, looking at the following picture, you can see the wire polarity, the tweeter are not connected there anymore but the connection for the speaker are the same..

3625


If I were you, I would try to get the speaker output behind the glovebox at the head unit, because getting out of the doors with a cable will be hard to do to avoid water to get in after you did..

You can find ISO harness so you don't have to cut any car cable. For example the Focal one, the 2 orange connectors are all of the speakers.

Hope this helps.
 
#38 ·
#41 ·
Hey @pro thanks for all the great info! I have some Focals on order from Germany. Can you clarify the "speaker adapter" portion? Without taking the door panel off, it looks like my speakers are 5", but the Focal kits for ID.4 are 6.5". Is there an adapter included, or is the speaker bigger than what I'm seeing through the slots in the door, or do I need to 3D print an adapter? Thanks again!
 
#42 · (Edited)
I was afraid too but the 6.5 fit perfectly, in fact 6.5 is the space between the screws not the diameter the speaker.. So if you purchased the Focal Inside line of speaker, they will fit without adapter but if you choose like me to go to a range above the Inside then you will need an adapter that you can find on Amazon for example. I'm not sure about 3D printing because a speaker moves, can be heavy and do vibrations, so a 3D print could easily break due to all that. The Amazon adapters are inexpensive.
This kind of adapter will do the job Adapter on Amazon US, if you did go to Focal Inside, again you need no adapters neither for the speaker or the cable..
 
#44 ·
Question to anyone doing this - is there an audible pop from remote turn on of the amp? This can be a problem with VWs and an inline amp. The harness can sometimes alleviate this depending on how they designed it. I have an inline I’d like to install in the glove box area with some plug and play harness but I’m probably not going to do the speakers. I wonder if you can just purchase the focal harness to work with other smaller amps. Might take some splicing.
 
#45 ·
My Focal amp is an inline and don't make any pop or any kind of noise, it can be ordered alone and will provide you easy access to the speaker cable, a valid 12v+ and GND. The amp can be hidden on the right of the glovebox so you don't loose space in the glovebox.

Don't forget that the ID will check the presence of the speaker so with an inline amp, you need to add some sort of speaker simulator.
 
#55 · (Edited)
I tried to contact Cartoy to see if they can order them but it is impossible to do that with their website, it seems possible at their physical retail stores..

Good morning Philippe,

My apologies but regretfully those are not speakers we are currently carrying in the Focal line. It may be possible to special order that at one our retail store locations, but sadly we are not able to special orders of this nature through our online department.

Respectfully,

CAR•TOYS
Customer Service Team
Hours: 8am-4pm PST M-F
ContactUsOnline@CarToys.com
800-997-3644
Car Audio & Video, GPS Navigation, Car Speakers/Amplifiers - Car Toys
 
#56 · (Edited)
I finally got my new speakers and installed them this weekend. The difference is huge (in a good way)! The sound is much more natural and bass actually exists. I'm very happy with the results and the final cost was $185 USD.

Based on Focal's great reputation and the factory-fit of the "Focal Inside" line of speakers, this solution seemed to be the best option for me. Focal sells a variety of kits that can replace from two to six of the factory speakers (two front, two back, and two front tweeters) and also have kits which add an amplifier and subwoofer.

I chose the IC VW 165 kit, which includes a pair of coaxial speakers (no separate tweeters). I replaced the front two factory speakers with the new Focals. I know, I know. The IC VW 165 is designed to replace the rear speakers since it doesn't include the two standalone (component) tweeters.

Here was my line of thinking. First, based on my previous frequency analysis and listening observations, treble response was not the main deficiency of the factory sound system. The main issues were lack of any bass and non-linear (unnatural) mids. Second, I absolutely hate disassembling and re-assembling interior plastic trim panels. Something always breaks. Lastly, my goal isn't to have perfect sound. I just want the quality to be good enough that it doesn't drive me nuts. I have other listening areas I can go if I want really high-end sound.

So my plan was to start with the two main front speakers and incrementally replace more speakers (and/or the amp) if I wasn't happy with the results. That way the only trim panels I had to mess with were the two door panels. My main concern was the the dynamic output of the Focals would be too soft or loud compared to the remaining factory speakers and that perhaps the factory amp and/or crossovers wouldn't be sufficient. As it turns out, that wasn't a problem. The dynamics are well-balanced even with the remaining factory speakers and surprisingly there doesn't seem to be any low-pass filter or crossover that affects the co-axial speaker's built-in tweeter.

I tried to get mentally prepared for my battle with the trim pieces. I drank coffee. I watched YouTube videos, I read through pro's instructions a few times. I was ready. I started my removing the white trim on the door handles. I proceeded as carefully as I could, but the whole process was much more difficult (at least for me) than I expected. It still involved a lot of prying, popping and pushing while simultaneously hoping I wasn't applying too much force or working the wrong area. In the end, I got the trim pieces off but broke a few internal clips. I mixed up some epoxy, glued and clamped the couple broken clips, and set those aside. Ug, not off to a great start, but at least I was making progress.

Removing the door panels was relatively easy once I figured out how the heck to disconnect the alarm LED in the driver's side door. It took a lot of strategic pictures with my cell phone wedged in the crack to figure out that there are clips on both sides of the whole assembly that need to be squeezed. Drilling out the rivets in the factory speakers and riveting the new ones in place was relatively straightforward, though I did manage to cut myself twice. The good news is that blood wipes right off the interior white surfaces. lol.

With the new speakers installed, I re-connected all the wires, tested everything, and started re-assembling the door panels. I ended up struggling with the plastic door panel fasteners and wished I had a few extras. In the end, I managed to get everything put back together. However, I was extremely relieved that I didn't buy the extra tweeters and rear speakers and have to go through the whole process another four times. Twice was more than enough.

I got in the car and did a quick listening test with a few of my go-to reference songs. The difference was immediately noticeable and honestly better than I was expecting. I was especially surprised at how much more bass there was and that everything sounded more natural. In the car's audio "focus" setting, I moved the balance slightly upward to favor the front drivers over the rear. Sitting in the rear didn't sound as good as the front, but it definitely sounded better than before and was more the adequate. Sitting in the front sounded great!

I got out my laptop and audio rig and did a frequency analysis test. This time, I achieved the flattest response with bass at -9, mid at +1 and treble at +8. Note that this is just a starting point and is not what sounds best. I just wanted to know where my flat baseline was. Here's what the graph looked like.

3821


In this image, the blue line is is showing the new Focal speakers while the light red line shows my previous factory speaker measurements. A few things jumped out at me: bass actually is present, the treble response is significantly better, and there's no more huge weird dip at 700 Hz. Interestingly, the 200 Hz dip was present in both the factory speakers and the new Focal speakers. I'm guessing that's inherent to the electronics or acoustics of the car. I should note that while it doesn't look like the Focals have much bass, this was with the EQ's bass turned all the way down (since I was trying to get a linear response). With the bass EQ slider at the mid-point, it wasn't linear but there was much more bass available than with the factory speakers.

After figuring out the baseline, I moved the bass slider closer to the mid-point and reduced the treble a bit. That sounded pretty good to me. I listened to a variety of content and was very impressed by the difference. Again, the sound was much more natural and music finally had low-end. Would adding the amp, subwoofer, extra tweeters and rear speakers make it sound even better? Absolutely. However, I'm super happy with the results and glad I didn't have to remove more interior panels. I live in the California, USA but purchased the ICVW165 kit from an eBay seller in Germany for $185 including tax and shipping. I received the speakers 11 days after placing the order.

Is the final result perfect? Nope. Would it be better if I upgraded everything? Yep. Does it sound great and meet my needs? Definitely! I'm happy with the results and don't plan to upgrade any more components. That said, if I didn't have to battle interior trim pieces and everything just screwed into place, I would absolutely upgrade everything. I think this was a good compromise--plus, it's a lot cheaper. Hope this helps someone else!
 
#63 ·
I finally got my new speakers and installed them this weekend. The difference is huge (in a good way)! The sound is much more natural and bass actually exists. I'm very happy with the results and the final cost was $185 USD.

Based on Focal's great reputation and the factory-fit of the "Focal Inside" line of speakers, this solution seemed to be the best option for me. Focal sells a variety of kits that can replace from two to six of the factory speakers (two front, two back, and two front tweeters) and also have kits which add an amplifier and subwoofer.

I chose the IC VW 165 kit, which includes a pair of coaxial speakers (no separate tweeters). I replaced the front two factory speakers with the new Focals. I know, I know. The IC VW 165 is designed to replace the rear speakers since it doesn't include the two standalone (component) tweeters.

Here was my line of thinking. First, based on my previous frequency analysis and listening observations, treble response was not the main deficiency of the factory sound system. The main issues were lack of any bass and non-linear (unnatural) mids. Second, I absolutely hate disassembling and re-assembling interior plastic trim panels. Something always breaks. Lastly, my goal isn't to have perfect sound. I just want the quality to be good enough that it doesn't drive me nuts. I have other listening areas I can go if I want really high-end sound.

So my plan was to start with the two main front speakers and incrementally replace more speakers (and/or the amp) if I wasn't happy with the results. That way the only trim panels I had to mess with were the two door panels. My main concern was the the dynamic output of the Focals would be too soft or loud compared to the remaining factory speakers and that perhaps the factory amp and/or crossovers wouldn't be sufficient. As it turns out, that wasn't a problem. The dynamics are well-balanced even with the remaining factory speakers and surprisingly there doesn't seem to be any low-pass filter or crossover that affects the co-axial speaker's built-in tweeter.

I tried to get mentally prepared for my battle with the trim pieces. I drank coffee. I watched YouTube videos, I read through pro's instructions a few times. I was ready. I started my removing the white trim on the door handles. I proceeded as carefully as I could, but the whole process was much more difficult (at least for me) than I expected. It still involved a lot of prying, popping and pushing while simultaneously hoping I wasn't applying too much force or working the wrong area. In the end, I got the trim pieces off but broke a few internal clips. I mixed up some epoxy, glued and clamped the couple broken clips, and set those aside. Ug, not off to a great start, but at least I was making progress.

Removing the door panels was relatively easy once I figured out how the heck to disconnect the alarm LED in the driver's side door. It took a lot of strategic pictures with my cell phone wedged in the crack to figure out that there are clips on both sides of the whole assembly that need to be squeezed. Drilling out the rivets in the factory speakers and riveting the new ones in place was relatively straightforward, though I did manage to cut myself twice. The good news is that blood wipes right off the interior white surfaces. lol.

With the new speakers installed, I re-connected all the wires, tested everything, and started re-assembling the door panels. I ended up struggling with the plastic door panel fasteners and wished I had a few extras. In the end, I managed to get everything put back together. However, I was extremely relieved that I didn't buy the extra tweeters and rear speakers and have to go through the whole process another four times. Twice was more than enough.

I got in the car and did a quick listening test with a few of my go-to reference songs. The difference was immediately noticeable and honestly better than I was expecting. I was especially surprised at how much more bass there was and that everything sounded more natural. In the car's audio "focus" setting, I moved the balance slightly upward to favor the front drivers over the rear. Sitting in the rear didn't sound as good as the front, but it definitely sounded better than before and was more the adequate. Sitting in the front sounded great!

I got out my laptop and audio rig and did a frequency analysis test. This time, I achieved the flattest response with bass at -9, mid at +1 and treble at +8. Note that this is just a starting point and is not what sounds best. I just wanted to know where my flat baseline was. Here's what the graph looked like.

View attachment 3821

In this image, the blue line is is showing the new Focal speakers while the light red line shows my previous factory speaker measurements. A few things jumped out at me: bass actually is present, the treble response is significantly better, and there's no more huge weird dip at 700 Hz. Interestingly, the 200 Hz dip was present in both the factory speakers and the new Focal speakers. I'm guessing that's inherent to the electronics or acoustics of the car. I should note that while it doesn't look like the Focals have much bass, this was with the EQ's bass turned all the way down (since I was trying to get a linear response). With the bass EQ slider at the mid-point, it wasn't linear but there was much more bass available than with the factory speakers.

After figuring out the baseline, I moved the bass slider closer to the mid-point and reduced the treble a bit. That sounded pretty good to me. I listened to a variety of content and was very impressed by the difference. Again, the sound was much more natural and music finally had low-end. Would adding the amp, subwoofer, extra tweeters and rear speakers make it sound even better? Absolutely. However, I'm super happy with the results and glad I didn't have to remove more interior panels. I live in the California, USA but purchased the ICVW165 kit from an eBay seller in Germany for $185 including tax and shipping. I received the speakers 11 days after placing the order.

Is the final result perfect? Nope. Would it be better if I upgraded everything? Yep. Does it sound great and meet my needs? Definitely! I'm happy with the results and don't plan to upgrade any more components. That said, if I didn't have to battle interior trim pieces and everything just screwed into place, I would absolutely upgrade everything. I think this was a good compromise--plus, it's a lot cheaper. Hope this helps someone else!
Congrats on such a successful upgrade, and thanks for posting the details.
 
#57 ·
I did found it was harder to put all back in place. Removal was about a no brainer.. I did buy some spare clips and changed some that I broke during the removal.

What really matter is that you got some pleasure with your system, no need to install all speakers if you get that with the 2 front in coaxial :)

Tx for the review.
 
#58 ·
I did found it was harder to put all back in place. Removal was about a no brainer.
Just curious about this. The door panel itself was super easy to remove. However the handle piece was the most difficult for me. I bought the VW tools that you recommended and was very careful, yet some of the "clips" still broke. Is there a special technique for removing the handle? I managed to fix mine (and the fixed pieces were all internal/not visible), but still painful on a new car.

Maybe you shouldn't tell me...if it's easy I will probably replace the rears as well. ;) Thanks for your write-up as well, without it I probably wouldn't have attempted this!
 
#59 ·
Well the front panels are the harder to remove, back door don't have the alarm and no door leds. I make to pop with the tool and when it start to come, I finish with my fingers and that too can cost a bit of blood :)

I made the write-up because I was afraid to do that without any information and I really hope that people can see if it will be possible for them to do it or if is better to hire someone to do the job.