Volkswagen ID Forum banner
21 - 39 of 39 Posts
I purchased 30k service when leased the car. The MSRP was $50 but dealer charged $100. They were upset when they found out it is $50 only. They thought it should be more.

If you don't have service extension expect to pay several hundred dollars.
 
My 30,000 was about $110 at the selling dealer and I felt it was too much for hardly anything. I am coming up on 40,000 and am very leery of its cost.
If it was a brake fluid flush along with the other checks that sounds fair. There's of course a minimum hourly labor charge (brake bleeding a bit tedious) plus the cost of fluid.
Also Cabin Air Filter.

Did they itemize? If not be sure to ask next time.
 
I brought my ID.4 in for 30k service around 35K miles - was told need new air filter and brake line flush. I remember being quoted 75 for air filter - I declined knowing how easy they are to replace - found a new filter online for 25. Don't remember the cost of brake lines but it was in hundreds - I opted to wait and research if this is really needed - never did it on my ICE cars in the past. Will decide when I get to 40k.
 
I brought my ID.4 in for 30k service around 35K miles - was told need new air filter and brake line flush. I remember being quoted 75 for air filter - I declined knowing how easy they are to replace - found a new filter online for 25. Don't remember the cost of brake lines but it was in hundreds - I opted to wait and research if this is really needed - never did it on my ICE cars in the past. Will decide when I get to 40k.
The air filter is in the frunk, should be very easy to change yourself. The brake flush is needed to prevent corrosion, but probably OK to delay a year or so. With these EVs the brake fluid doesn't get hot enough to vaporize the moisture. Most EVs require a flush every two years.
 
Brake system flush is a pretty basic flat rate service item. Dealer should be able to give a specific quote that mentions the hours, plus the cost of the fluid. I bet it is in the neighborhood of an hour. Dealer hourly rate is probably posted on the wall somewhere.
 
Brake system flush is a pretty basic flat rate service item. Dealer should be able to give a specific quote that mentions the hours, plus the cost of the fluid. I bet it is in the neighborhood of an hour. Dealer hourly rate is probably posted on the wall somewhere.
Modern brake fluids do not support corrosion. Changing brake is a hold over from the past like changing oil every 2-3 thousand miles. I have two other vehicles that I have had for 10 years and I have never changed the brake fluid! But I use Dot 5 silicone brake fluid in them.
 
Modern brake fluids do not support corrosion. Changing brake is a hold over from the past like changing oil every 2-3 thousand miles. I have two other vehicles that I have had for 10 years and I have never changed the brake fluid! But I use Dot 5 silicone brake fluid in them.
The brake fluid the car comes with is hygroscopic dot three or four and does need to be changed.

It will absorb water.
 
I think it's actually DOT 4 ISO Class 6 low viscosity.

Considering the extra complexity of the ID. brake system compared to earlier cars, which has to deal with not only conventional foot braking but also the automatic emergency braking and the ABS, and has to blend properly with the regenerative electric braking, my opinion is that this is a place where the manufacturer's recommendation should be followed exactly.
 
The brake fluid the car comes with is hydroscopic dot three or four and does need to be changed.

It will absorb water.
Yes, brake fluid is hygroscopic and therefore absorbs ambient moisture. The brake system master cylinder is actually open to the environment via vented cap.

ID.4 maintenance spec’s fluid flush at initial 3rd year and then every two years thereafter.

There are very good reasons to periodically flush/bleed the brake fluid (mentioned in video; which also suggests the amount of labor involved), but there will always be those who cite they never do so. 🤷‍♂️

btw: I use this positive pressure method on my out of warranty vehicles, but there is of course a vacuum method. Note also the good suggestion to alternate fluid color to assure full flushing.

Ref:
 
Sounds like I had an experience similar to others. The listed services provided included: Cabin Filter Replacement (which I will do my self next time it is needed), Flushing the brakes and doing a Multi-point inspection. The total cost was around $325 and the cabin filter was around $75 of that cost. I too thought the brakes needed to be flushed at 3 years, not 30K miles, then every 2 years there after. In fact, the dealership's own documentation stated as much. I didn't say anything because I wanted the dealer to support the EV transition, but I will think twice at 40K.
 
Sounds like I had an experience similar to others. The listed services provided included: Cabin Filter Replacement (which I will do my self next time it is needed), Flushing the brakes and doing a Multi-point inspection. The total cost was around $325 and the cabin filter was around $75 of that cost. I too thought the brakes needed to be flushed at 3 years, not 30K miles, then every 2 years there after. In fact, the dealership's own documentation stated as much. I didn't say anything because I wanted the dealer to support the EV transition, but I will think twice at 40K.
A year ago I picked up two (2) CAF's at the dealership parts dept for $70.

Very easy to replace oneself, especially thanks to our fellow member @fiehlsport
 
Question: What does your VW dealer charge for the 30,000 mile ID4 check, check inspection? This is the first scheduled inspection that is not free. I called my Maryland VW dealer to ask but they won’t return my call. In any case, it might be useful to compare cost across the country. In my case, I replaced the cabin air filter myself, very easy job with excellent YouTube videos on how to. That alone should reduce the inspection cost some.
 
Mine at 30 and 40k was about the same 385-395. I'm skipping the 50k to save money. And doing the 60k since I heard it's about $1300.
Also I found out you don't need to do the smaller one or any for that matter to keep up on the warranty.
 
Mine at 30 and 40k was about the same 385-395. I'm skipping the 50k to save money. And doing the 60k since I heard it's about $1300.
Also I found out you don't need to do the smaller one or any for that matter to keep up on the warranty.
$1300? What could they possibly do for that kind of money? Change the timing belt? ;)
 
21 - 39 of 39 Posts