I just had my renewal with Geico, also almost after 9 months having ID.4. No increase in premium, it actually went down $6



Check my ID.4 accessories at YuriKAccessories | Etsy

 

I just had my renewal with Geico, also almost after 9 months having ID.4. No increase in premium, it actually went down $6



Check my ID.4 accessories at YuriKAccessories | Etsy

I had Allstate for years (12) and they quoted me about $400 every six months, then I did a compare to Progressive, same coverage and the charge was 1/4th or about $100 every six.

 

Farmers renewed mine in Oct, at about the same level, $751 for six months. I am in San Diego, a high risk city per insurance. Your new quote is outrageous, go shop around!

 

My insurance, Geico is charging me less than it used to charge for the previous car Honda Clarity. I pay 159/month for 2 cars. I think State Farm might think this is a tractor

 

When I switched from an Audi Q5-e to the ID.4 my insurance dropped dramatically. (same coverage)

Start shopping with other insurers, I change insurers every 3-5 years due to outrageous premium increases. I’m currently with Allstate, formerly with Farmers and Progressive. They raise premiums every year until they become ridiculous. Start dot over with a different insurer.

And always make sure you’re comparing apples to apples, meaning same coverage limits and deductibles.

 

When I switched from an Audi Q5-e to the ID.4 my insurance dropped dramatically. (same coverage)

Start shopping with other insurers, I change insurers every 3-5 years due to outrageous premium increases. I’m currently with Allstate, formerly with Farmers and Progressive. They raise premiums every year until they become ridiculous. Start dot over with a different insurer.

I am 9 years with Geico no premium increase. Knock on wood



Check my ID.4 accessories at YuriKAccessories | Etsy

 

I traded a 2016 Volvo S60 for the ID.4 with Liberty Mutual, and while I don't have the policy in front of me, my recollection is the premium decreased slightly and was in the $1200 range for the year.

 

Wow that is crazy. I have State Farm too (Ohio) and I pay around $450 per 6 months. I hope its not a mistake they will realize later

I do have discount for long time customer, accident free, house insurance, etc., but I imagine difference should not be massive. Maybe its your state kinda thing, definitely shop around

 

Wow that is crazy. I have State Farm too (Ohio) and I pay around $450 per 6 months. I hope its not a mistake they will realize later

I do have discount for long time customer, accident free, house insurance, etc., but I imagine difference should not be massive. Maybe its your state kinda thing, definitely shop around

I have State Farm. I don't have the ID.4 yet but I did call them last month and was quoted nearly the same as my current vehicle..

 

That’s insane. Liberty Mutual charges me $7 a year more for the ID.4 than for my 2019 Golf. Same coverages. Comprehensive is slightly more, collision is slightly less… both are less than a grand a year in NJ, probably the most expensive car insurance state in the country!

 

.Same coverages. Comprehensive is slightly more, collision is slightly less both are less than a grand a year in NJ, probably the most expensive car insurance state in the country!

That would be Michigan for a number of reasons mostly related to no fault medical and compulsory personal injury, although I believe laws just changed and rates should drop. Looks like there are fifteen states with higher average premium than NJ.

Anyway, in LA, on list of top 20 metros with highest rates in country, and in my higher risk zip code within LA (I know because my premiums shot up when I moved 8 miles east), I pay $2400/year for ID.4 coverage way above minimum. Geico was cheapest so that's what I have.

 

I just took delivery of an AWD and insured with State Farm. $556 every six months. Ventura County, CA - also a higher risk area in the state.

 

$308.24 / 6 mos. (Oregon)

 

Wow, thats pretty good, do you include have collision and/or comprehensive?

I guess insurance costs could be wildly different.

 

I traded in a 2021 Mazda CX-9 Carbon edition AWD for my ID.4 and my insurance actually went down by about $18 every 6 months. I'm just outside L.A. county, higher premium area. I pay about $1600 every 6 months for my ID.4 and our 2022 ICE luxury vehicle that's about the same MSRP as the ID.4. Geico for about 8-9 years now.

 

Wow the CX-9 carbon was a nice vehicle more luxurious than ID.4 ? 😁

 

I'd say it's time to shop around. I am insuring my 2021 ID.4 and a 2019 Chevy Spark with Progressive for $710 for six months.

 

My policy actually went down about $300 a year. The ID.4 replaced my wife's Mustang.

 

My USAA has dropped as well (47 year member).

NeoFrank - time to shop for a new insurer.

 

Don’t have my ID4 yet, but as a 49-year USAA member, I hope my premium will be reasonable too.

 

Dang I need to around. I am paying $200 a month while they insured my 2019 Jetta for $100 a month. I knew they were lying about ID.4 drivers!

 

I have a thought, somewhat knowing State Farm”s business practices... and bear with me here... do you frequently enjoy the acceleration ”kick”?

FWIW, State Farm has no respect for loyalty. I was with them for 40 years and they started jacking me around on rates and coverage denials. Currently with Auto-Owners, who are still great even after a claim.

 

When we bought our ID.4 the quote from our current insurer was outrageous (not to your extent but outrageous to me) at $1400/year. Our previous vehicle was about $650/year. I got a quote through GEICO for the exact same coverage levels and it came to about $470/year for the ID.4. Needless to say we went with GEICO.

 

wow you are this threads record holder, what state? I thought our Oregon buddy was already very low. Looks like I need to shop around

 

We experienced sticker shock with our longtime insurer, Country Financial. They increased our premium by $750/year, to around $1600/year for the ID4. I shopped around and now we have better coverage for $760/year with Travelers. Our 2016 Sportwagen is around $640/year.

 

I'm with Travelers as well for home, auto, and umbrella. They actually offer EV discounts, so replacing our last gas car (a 2018 Honda HRV) with a more expensive ID4 dropped our rates a few bucks.

This will make me sound like the old man that I am, but I actually have an independent insurance agent. I have no idea what "cut" he gets from my insurance, but he consistently finds me as good or better rates annually than I've been able to, and does it proactively ("it looks like State Farm is going to really raise rates this coming year, so I'm going to switch you to Travelers...")

Just one more thing of my plate with no direct cost to me. (Every few years I'll compare rates on my own to "keep him honest" and I've never beat his recommendations in 20 years!)





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This discussion has me more than just a bit worried, because like the OP, I also have State Farm. Hope what he's seeing doesn't happen to me

I pay $327.62 every 6 months for $100K/$300K/$100K with $100 deductible comprehensive and $500 deductible collision. I've been with State Farm for more than 30 years with no accidents or tickets in so long I can't even remember. When I got the bill, I thought it was a bit high because it's sure more than I've ever paid before (but I've never insured a $45K car before either) but when I checked with USAA, they wanted about $100 more. I'm in Mississippi

 

I work for a personal lines insurance company. I’m not an actuary but I work with them to code their rating algorithms in our systems. From experience I would say that agents like to (mis)explain rate increases by finding something different about the customer year over year and using that since it’s easier to explain. In reality, the agent probably has no idea about the rates and rules that happen inside the black box of rating.

If the Id4 were more expensive to insure relative to other cars you would have seen a higher pro-rated change when adding it on. From what I see the ID 4 symbols (relative rating to other cars) looks in line with other cars in this cost range.

New models can be a little tricky if the expected loss severity hasn’t been published for the model yet. For those cars they are generally rated using the cost of the vehicle instead of its specific risk attributes. Even so, those adjustments on renewal tend to be minor assuming they made a pretty good guess last year.

It sounds like there was a rate change or the OP was reclassified to a higher plan (having nothing to do with switching a car to an ID4).You’ll never know for sure and all you can do is shop. Before you do make sure there is nothing whacky going on with your credit score from last year that may have figured into the renewal and might impact your quote with other companies.

 

I have Progressive and they just increased my monthly by over $120 a month (4 drivers, 4 cars) for absolutely no reason. Contacted GEICO and they dropped my bill $270 a month. Progressive could give me no reason for the price hike, even the agent was like "Wow, that seems wrong but...".

 

For me Geico went up a little mostly due to a newer more expensive car. When we were considering a Tesla M3 Geico would have been extremely expensive while other carriers were much better. I suggest shopping around for the best rates.

 

Lexis Nexis is used by the insurance industry to determine what type of risk you are to insure. It’s kind of a credit reporting agency that insurance companies use.

You need to make sure your Lexis Nexis report is not negative. If it is, any company that gives you a quote is liable to come in high as well. Contact Lexis Nexis or establish a sign in on their web site to get a free report mailed to you.

If it turns out that State Farm placed you in a higher risk bracket contact State Farm (Bloomington IL) directly to see what the issue is. A lot of agents are lazy and won’t do the work on your behalf.

 

Off topic but

You need to make sure your Lexis Nexis report is not negative. If it is, any company that gives you a quote is liable to come in high as well. Contact Lexis Nexis or establish a sign in on their web site to get a free report mailed to you.

Lexis Nexis website is overwhelming. Here's a link to their consumer portal: Home - LexisNexis Risk Solutions Consumer Disclosure

Straying off-topic a little, but I just wanted to say thanks for this. I ordered my Lexis Nexis report and received it (well, snail mail with a link and a PIN, it's an iffy system they've got there). They generated a 52 page report of names, previous addresses, property records, phone numbers, insurance policies and claims, and credit inquires. No simple "score" as one would see on a credit report, but plenty of information for a carrier or lender to help inform a decision.

 

I moved from a 2017 GTI. My insurance premium dropped by $6 immediately. My renewal is in February, and the quote there was $8 lower over 6 months.

 

Lexis Nexis website is overwhelming. Here's a link to their consumer portal: Home - LexisNexis Risk Solutions Consumer Disclosure

 

The “insurance score” that Lexis provides is essentially a credit score but tweaked slightly to be predictive of uw losses vs. repayment of debts (though the two scores are highly correlated) and sometimes tailored for state insurance regulations on what types of debts can be included e.g. some states don’t allow use of unpaid medical bills in insurance scores.

The underlying data that Lexis pulls from are the same credit bureaus used for credit by lenders. Lexis turns your credit “report” into a credit score - or insurance score. So it’s always a good idea to get an annual copy of your credit history from Experian, Transunion and Equifax.