'regular' 2.5 bar all around (rimsize not specified)
Fully loaded from my head 2.8 bar front and 3.1 at the rear.

I thought I had a picture, will snap 1 today

 

'regular' 2.5 bar all around (rimsize not specified)
Fully loaded from my head 2.8 bar front and 3.1 at the rear.

I thought I had a picture, will snap 1 today

Thanks Furkan, really appreciate the info and everything else you are doing.

If we are betting, I would say that the US placard will say 45psi all around, or might show a 40/45 split and will only have the full load numbers, not the partial ones.

One of the benefits of running the extra load tires is the ability to go to the higher max pressures without issue. On long road trips I typically bump the pressures up 5 pounds or so. I am sure the efficiency increase is negligible, but it makes me feel like I am doing something!

And I agree that most people will not notice the difference. Saw a study one time where they tested for that and most drivers could not tell when a tire was over 50% low, one of the reasons for mandating TPMS.

 

Although I mostly still use Imperial measurements I concede that the metric system is better. However when it comes to atmospheric pressure I think pounds per square inch a much more relatable term than the nebulous 'bar.' But then I still lament the loss of cycles per second to 'Hertz.' 🤪 Anyway ...

2.5 bar = 36.26 psi Normal load all-around

2.8 bar = 40.6 psi Front Max load
3.1 bar = 45 psi Rear Max load

In the USA VAG is likely to placard-list 35/40/45 respectively. We 'mericans like simple numbers.

The fully loaded vehicle numbers are of course much higher than most will typically run.

 

But then I still lament the loss of cycles per second to 'Hertz.' 🤪

Do you also mourn “mmf” becoming “pF” and “0.001 mfd” becoming “1.0 nF”?

(Just checking, 'cause I go back to at least the second of those two transitions.)

 

Generally in EVs, higher tire pressure gives longer range, so it's pretty common to run 5+/- psi high to get a few more miles. Because of changes in temperature over weather and seasonal variation, and cold vs. hot measurements following driving. only those who check tire pressure more often will even notice, especially in ID.4 with no direct TPMS psi display.

There are always a few with longer daily drives, so post COVID, if someone wants to do some experimenting, it would be pretty easy to set tire pressure, say at two different psi, and note any difference in range over many days.

Post #3 at this Bolt thread has a list of some of the factors affected by tire pressure.

 

 

Great and thanks! Much appreciated!

 

To bring this one back up again. Looking at the tire pressure placard on my FE, it says 42 psi all the way around. When I checked they were all at about 46 from the dealer so I dropped them to 42. Then perusing through the erWin files I found this these tables. My tire pressure sticker says 11A010000-D, while the one Furkan posted is a -K so his lines up, but the NAR ones don't. But even with there not being a table we can tag to the -D label, it looks to me like at half load we should be running 36 or 39psi all around. The US tire pressure labels list pressures at max load and I can't even make the 42 on mine match these tables, and I am betting that the -L is AWD. Thoughts?

If people are not happy with the 20's ride they might be way too high from the dealer and dropping them should help some

 

The US tire pressure labels list pressures at max load and I can't even make the 42 on mine match these tables, and I am betting that the -L is AWD. Thoughts?



View attachment 3476

Table has an obvious error for L- at full load. Rears should be at 46psi. The table indicates 469psi, which is probably a bit too high.

 

For the data nerds .... test report on coast down resistance as an indication of range impact for EVs. In this testing, tire pressure set at 2.0, 2.2 and 2.4 bar had an insignificant impact on coasting resistance. More of an impact at slower speeds. So I guess inflate for the ride comfort you want.

They also look other factors: 1) ambient air temperature > higher better and 2) wet road conditions < much worse with range impact 6-12%.
https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/2020-01-1068/ (abstract, but you can read some free in preview)

 

Dealerships typically overinflate as they recognize many/most won't thereafter check same and better to err on too much vs. too little (more tire wear but safer operation than under-inflated). Either that or they just don't bother to check the vehicle spec's.

btw: now coming into NA warmer weather do be sure to let off some air to re-achieve the nominal placard setting for your driving needs.

 

Not to mention the hassle of having to more carefully monitor the pressure of all the cars on their lot if they "only" inflate to the sticker spec.

 

Yeah, I was just noticing a couple days ago that the door sticker says 42 across the board, while tires themselves say 50 max psi, so I went ahead and checked and all 4 of them were right at 49 or 50. I bled them a little to put them at about 45, I think, but that spreadsheet is interesting, I'll probably adjust to those values.

 

I am going to drop mine today to the 36 numbers, that is what the engineers intended. I will almost never run max load and if I do for any length of time will bump them up. The door stickers are simplified here and just show one pressure, max load. Same thing with the Phaeton, only one set of high numbers for the NAR, but a couple of options based on load for the rest of the world. I run the world numbers and it rides better than the high pressure door sticker ones.

 

The multiple part numbers on the tables makes it confusing for sure. I am not sure which one to really use either, but for almost all of them half load is 36 all around so that is where I will start. For full load I would probably use the 39/46, but really anything on the tables should be acceptable. This is another result of US laws that just shotgun things. Furkan's sticker actually gives 2 loading conditions and expects the driver to pick the one that fits and use it. Here we get an oversimplified "full load all the time so people don't have to think" sticker.

And to make it worse, in the factory service files from erWin, there is no -D table But there are still a lot of blank sections in the manuals.

My ride got a little better when I started running half load pressures on the Phaeton (39/36 versus 39/45) so that is what I am going to shoot for here.

And I will be the first to admit that I over think these kinds of things!

 

I appreciate what all of you are trying to get across. However.......over a lot of years what I learned from several techs I knew was to note the tire pressure entirely based on the visual contact patch left when driving on the tire. Almost ALL manufacturers are basically underinflated to achieve this. On my new ID-4 Pro S I determined the perfect pressure for ideal contact patch indications was the front 235-55-19's at 44psi and the rear 255-50-19's at 46psi. go figure. They not only ride and handle what I'd consider to be perfection but the contact patch indicates it's not running on the non horizontal area beyond the edge (which it should for best handling and wear). This is with just ME in the vehicle too so no significant load. For certain any less pressure with additional passengers or load would not be a good thing. Just thought I'd pass that on.

 

And as we know, when Radial tires appeared on the scene it suddenly looked like everyone's tires were under-inflated. Many years later I still do a double take at times, especially with modern AWD 4-bangers where latitudinal engine weight is cantilevered over the front axle to make room for the transmission, asymmetrically demanding more tire pressure up front.
Fortunately the ID.4 is very well balanced front-back and so we can go with the same tire pressure all around.
Go with your best judgement given your typical vehicle loading. And don't forget to when-cold-tire adjust with changes in ambient temperature. For instance, I proactively lowered mine a bit for this week's heat wave in the Northeast (and Northwest).
Oh, and when you do adjust your tire pressure be reminded to reset the TPMS alert threshold in the Infotainment.

 

So we don’t have an explicit table for the -D labeled vehicles? I’m running my FE at 42 psi, ride and handling have been fine.

 

Not in the version of the manuals I looked at back in Feb/March, but I feel that version was incomplete in several areas. I am waiting a few months then will go look again to see if anything has been added. But the 36/36 in the tables matches @furkan's Euro half load sticker, but he does have 21's

 

I've had my Pro S for a couple weeks now and still trying to get the tire pressures right for the smoothest ride. Started with 42 front/42 rear, then 40/40, now at 38/40. Overall the ride is OK but there is an unpleasant forward/backward or rocking motion. For example if I try to drive with my head lightly resting on the headrest, my head gets beat up by the headrest over certain road imperfections. In my other cars on the same roads, I can drive with my head on the headrest and feel zero forward/backward motion. Incidentally I had similar issues when I had a Tesla Model S so I wonder if it's a by-product of the heavy battery underneath.

 

I've had my Pro S for a couple weeks now and still trying to get the tire pressures right for the smoothest ride. Started with 42 front/42 rear, then 40/40, now at 38/40. Overall the ride is OK but there is an unpleasant forward/backward or rocking motion. For example if I try to drive with my head lightly resting on the headrest, my head gets beat up by the headrest over certain road imperfections. In my other cars on the same roads, I can drive with my head on the headrest and feel zero forward/backward motion. Incidentally I had similar issues when I had a Tesla Model S so I wonder if it's a by-product of the heavy battery underneath.

These type of ride discomfort is mostly based on suspension profile. Have you checked the different car modes in your ID.4? In custom mode, it gives you the option to choose the suspension mode (comfort or sport). Do not reduce tire pressures to get more comfortable ride, because 2-4psi will not make ride better but it will cause uneven tire wearing as well as reduction in range.


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If you want to get a slightly longer range, it is always better to have it at a higher pressure. It reduces the rolling resistance. Mine says 42psi on the door, but when i have them checked they were at 45-46psi. I evened them all out at 46psi. Of course, i do recommend people to follow what the manufacturer recommends due to safety and tire health concerns.

Note that your cold (before you drive vs warm (after 20/30min of driving) pressures will be different. Make sure your warm tire pressure doesn’t exceed the max pressure tire can take (which should be 50psi)


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Given that we don’t have active or semi-active suspension in US cars, what does changing the suspension setting do?

 

These discussions of specific pressures aren’t particularly valuable with knowing which size tires we’re talking about.

 

I have the 19s

 

Practical question: How would the Germans do it?

I'm taking two passengers and their suitcases to the airport, about 100 miles away. Normally my pressures are 36/36 PSI with 19" tires. Does it make sense to pump them up to 39/45 PSI just for today?

 

I wouldn’t bother. Keep in mind that the tires will warm up quite a bit in a 100 mile drive, which will increase their pressure.

And dependent on the quality of roadway you may want the rears a bit softer than by the book for back seat comfort. You may lose a bit of range, but of course can slow your speed.

And then the return trip you’d be at too high a pressure unless you bleed them. Too much bother.

But then I’m not German.

 

I pumped mine up to 42 when I had 3 passengers plus lots of luggage for 3 days recently, then put it back to my usual half load 38psi. Maybe because I am part German.

 

Those with 20” AWD Pro S, what psi are you riding for a balance of efficiency and comfort? My ‘23 states 44psi f/r, but my wife is crazy about the ride over imperfections

 

I run 38 on 19", and I think this same info here applies to 20";

Check your tire pressure on a new car, esp. at altitude

I checked my tire pressures on my 1 day old ID.4 and they were all at 47psi (cold, 10F) which is too high for what I like.The 44 on the door is full load and I usually just have me and 1 passenger, so I like the VW euro recommendations on that which is 36 at half load. (edit: decided to go 38...

www.vwidtalk.com

 

Thanks I read that Thread, but I still didn’t see anyone with 20” AWD share what psi seems like a nice compromise, or what VW recommends not fully loaded. 44psi is way too high.

 

What tool do folks recommend for checking tire pressure?

 

I use a digital one like this for $6 including shipping:

🔥LAUNCH X431 PRO3S+ V5.0 Bidirectional Car Diagnostic Scanner Tool Key Coding | eBay

The systems include but are not limited to LAUNCH X431 Pro3s+ V5.0,2025 Newest Version,Expert Functions AllL--In-One,From Beginner To Master(5 Years Back Up,2 Years F.ree Update). Designed for Every Technician.

www.ebay.com

 

Regarding tire pressure gauges, my 2021 Pro S came with a very nice one in the tire-repair goodies bag; I've moved it to the glove box. It can read up to a pretty high pressure so it will be useful for the tires on my 2012 Volt as well (where I tend to run 44 psi).

Regarding a different conversation we're having: This is one of the places where real TPMS sensors shine. Once you've convinced yourself that they are well calibrated (and they usually are), 1) you don't need your tire pressure gauge again, 2) you can quickly check how well you've balanced the pressure among the four tires, and 3) you can see the tire pressures cold and hot and so assess whether you might be running too much pressure given the heating that occurs while driving.

 

Oh no, you didn't. 🤦‍♂️ My least favorite subject !!!! Here we go again @Plant Peon

Let's beat the rear drum brake dead horse while we're at it. 🤷‍♂️

Regarding tire pressure gauges, my 2021 Pro S came with a very nice one in the tire-repair goodies bag; I've moved it to the glove box. It can read up to a pretty high pressure so it will be useful for the tires on my 2012 Volt as well (where I tend to run 44 psi).

Regarding a different conversation we're having: This is one of the places where real TPMS sensors shine. Once you've convinced yourself that they are well calibrated (and they usually are), 1) you don't need your tire pressure gauge again, 2) you can quickly check how well you've balanced the pressure among the four tires, and 3) you can see the tire pressures cold and hot and so assess whether you might be running too much pressure given the heating that occurs while driving.

 

Running pressure too high like 44 when not fully loaded is resulting in a lot of premature inside wear for many on the forum:

Unusual tire side wear - anyone else have this issue?

Hey all, after reading the "Tires!" thread, I was unsure what the verdict was on Bridgestone's warranty coverage for OEM tires. Do they do pro-rated coverage? My dealer says no but I'd like to hear what other experienced My issue: ID.4 1st Ed was not holding air on rear passenger tire. Dealer...

www.vwidtalk.com

Tire pressures?

Can someone with a European vehicle, or @VW TECHNICIAN , please confirm the factory recommended tire pressures for 20 inch wheels? I am just getting around to not using the US label 42/42 psi pressures. I have started with 36F / 38R, and I’m very happy with the more comfortable ride. Handling...

www.vwidtalk.com

 

Please note that I said this was for my Volt; I have no recommendation for ID.4s (yet).

And the Volt wears its tires evenly at that pressure.

 

Tire pressure gauges get in accurate with age, with normal use, by dropping, by sitting in a hot trunk or garage, etc. Also, they are not exactly precision laboratory instruments to start with. The best plan, I think, is to get new ones fairly often, compare readings, and try to eliminate the outliers.

 

A Slime-branded digital tire gauge got weird after I let it get overheated in the Sun. After that, it read very high compared to reality and it took comparisons with an old-but-reliable “stick gauge” to prove this. After that, I'm a bit gun-shy on trusting fancy digital gauges again.