can this be performed on ID4 with statement package without VW sound ?

 

I found the following site while searching for upgrade options:
Upgrade the sound system in your Volkswagen ID.4 today! — Cambridge Car Audio

Is anyone actually spending $7000+ on an ID4 audio upgrade? Let alone the other options that go up over $120,000+ ???

I can imagine someone in a Tesla X, Plaid, Audio SQ8, or other to-end cars that are already throwing a lot of money at their vehicle... But the ID4 is not a "sexy" sporty vehicle in my eyes that warrants some ridiculous over the top upgrades like this.

Could be totally wrong, curious what others think here... (or maybe people have actually done it / have links to those who have)

 

I found the following site while searching for upgrade options:
Upgrade the sound system in your Volkswagen ID.4 today! — Cambridge Car Audio

Is anyone actually spending $7000+ on an ID4 audio upgrade? Let alone the other options that go up over $120,000+ ???

I can imagine someone in a Tesla X, Plaid, Audio SQ8, or other to-end cars that are already throwing a lot of money at their vehicle... But the ID4 is not a "sexy" sporty vehicle in my eyes that warrants some ridiculous over the top upgrades like this.

Could be totally wrong, curious what others think here... (or maybe people have actually done it / have links to those who have)

It's brand-specific and they offer the same for Audis (without the cheap packages)

 

Okay, let's begin. I decided to update the stock audio system to an acceptable state. it will be a three-way system with the addition of rear speakers and a subwoofer (it turns out to be a five-way system). The front will play as a three-way system, the rear will support (low frequencies), the subwoofer will be in the trunk in a box. I will be making custom front stands for the tweeters and midrange speakers, the woofers at the bottom and at the back. The subwoofer will look either at the trunk door or towards the windshield through the open armrest. The signal source will be a standard head unit connected at a high level to the sound processor. The second source will be an audiophile audio player via coaxial cable.
Equipment:


Price for speakers in euro.

Car DSP

Amplifiers

A few shots from the analysis of doors and sound insulation, vibration insulation, as well as replacement of wires. Standard speakers with rivets. I drilled the holes, then installed the podiums and installed the speaker. The doors are easy to disassemble, the front windows snap off the holder and are removed, you will suffer with the rear ones). In the rear doors, in order to replace the cable, I had to drill a plastic connector in those places where there is no wiring (I think this is a universal connector, and some pins are simply empty), with the front ones everything is simpler, we don’t drill anything and stretch it. The conclusion was made in the trunk under the false floor. The power cable from the battery was pulled into the engine compartment into the passenger compartment through a rubber pipe.

 

 

 

The outer metal panel was reinforced with vibration insulation from the inside (it’s not visible in the photo, but it’s there). There was an error with the parking sensors. They stopped working, as did the airbag error (I disconnected the connector without removing the battery terminals), I will erase it later. With parking sensors, I either turned off the connector and didn’t see it, or they are tied to the original speakers. I think the problem will disappear after I connect the cables from the head unit to the external processor. ( Helix )

 

Does anyone have any information on where the audio system control unit is located? If you study the manual well, you can find logical errors, as well as different locations in European and American cars.

 

Did you get the errors resolved? Where is the rubber pipe you used to bring the power into the cabin? I look forward to your speaker stands (I assume you will build a pillars?).

 

There is a mistake in the parking sensors because they are connected to the speakers. After switching, I think the errors will disappear. The rubber tube (sealed gasket) is located under the steering wheel. There is electrical wiring going into the engine compartment, there is a small rubber extension nearby. I cut it off and ran the power cable to the battery. Yes, I will make A-pillars for tweeters and midrange speakers. I'm looking for rings for the tweeters, after which I'll start sculpting the shape of the stands using optical fiber, epoxy glue, stockings and sticks.

 

Little scary on the errors, did you use a resistor to simulate the resistance of the OEM speaker (similar to the focal speaker simulator)? Thanks for the tip on the rubber gasket, I'll go take a peek now.

I can't wait to see the finished pillars. This car is so quiet and the dash is so flat this seems like a great choice to build out pillars. This will be my first pillar build.

 

I haven’t installed resistors yet, but I’ll try to figure out how the logic block works and whether they are needed in the future. Here is an example photo with a cable.

 

Small update

 

Looking great so far. Can't wait to see the final.

Any tips on pulling the piano black door handle covers off the soor card? I've only seen one video of an id3 and the guy absolutely destroyed the piece.

I pop the back side, but can't get any movement to lift or tilt.

 

The plastic console snaps off. Next, unscrew the 2 bolts, turn the lock from below to the open position and remove the panel. It's hard to break rivets, you have to try. Disconnect the wires. Next with the inner panel, turn the plastic clips to the open position, then unscrew 2 bolts for the front door and one bolt if it is the rear door. Pull the glass down (it's flexible but don't overdo it). Disconnect the glass from the plastic holder (do not disassemble it, just disconnect it, otherwise you will suffer later with the steel cables of the window lifting mechanism). The front glass must be pulled out after detaching it through the top of the door frame; the rear glass does not need to be removed.

 

Update

 

Thanks for the detailed explanation and picture of the card minus the plastic console. So it's just a matter of committing to the pull Thanks!

 

Looks awesome and like you made a sturdy baffle for the mids. Can't wait to see how you finish them.

Update

 

Small update

 

Focal IHI01 Inside 1.5m extension for Focal IMPULSE


amount: 1
€49.00*

Focal IW-VW-Y-ISO INSIDE VW YISO / Y ISO adapter (FOAKACVYHA


amount: 1
€59.00*

Focal SPK-SIM INSIDE IHF06 Impedance Simulator (FOAKACSPKI000


amount: 1
€41.95*

Focal IC165VW - Inside 2-Way Coax for Volkswagen


amount: 1
€116.00*

Focal IS165VW 2-way Compo speaker 16.5 cm for Audi, Se


amount: 1
€169.00*


Just ordered the above for my 2023 ID4 along with the kicker amp mentioned in this thread. Wish me luck! Although I am seriously considering just driving up to ABT and having them do it since another member here had luck with them!

 

I bought a used low-mileage 2023 ID.4 Pro S AWD last week and bought the Kicker amp and Focal plug and play front and rear speakers with all the cables, and I am ready to start installing everything.

Is there a good write-up, pictures or video of how to remove the plastic door trim pieces without breaking them or the clips?

I appreciate all the information that everyone provided on the upgrades.

 

I bought a used low-mileage 2023 ID.4 Pro S AWD last week and bought the Kicker amp and Focal plug and play front and rear speakers with all the cables, and I am ready to start installing everything.

Is there a good write-up, pictures or video of how to remove the plastic door trim pieces without breaking them or the clips?

I appreciate all the information that everyone provided on the upgrades.

Check the first few pages of the thread

 

Earlier this week, I mounted the Key amp to a metal plate that I mounted to the metal plate under the glovebox. I also created a harness for the Key amp from the Y cable and the SIM.

This afternoon, I brought the car to a local stereo shop to have them remove the infotainment unit so the harness could be routed correctly. I also brought the front and rear Focal plug and play speakers with me, and they did the whole install while I waited. I did bring spare clips I ordered from the VW dealer and they used the new ones on the A pillar since I had them.

I did the tune when I got home and it sounds amazing. They recommended the Focal Bomba BP20 powered subwoofer. I never heard of it, but it gets great reviews on Crutchfield, so I am considering it.

Thanks again to everyone for posting all the information about the audio upgrade. I've only had my car for a couple of weeks, and the upgrade really transformed the car. I will post some pictures of the infotainment unit, harness, and amplifier mounted under the glovebox.

 

Small update

 

Since my update last week, I installed an Alpine MRV-M500 mono amplifier and Alpine SBR-S8-4 subwoofer in the trunk. It was all plug and play because I created a Y-connector after the SIM cable so I could just plug in the Key amp and plug in a cable that goes to the amp in the trunk.

I just removed the center speaker on the dash, and it made everything sound much better. Thank you @GregAZ22 for your posts about the center speaker removal.

Here are pictures of the harness that goes to the Key amp, the Key amp mounted under the glovebox, and the infotainment unit behind the glovebox.

 

Hi @alfadude1!

Thanks for these images which are super helpful. I’ve already installed the Focal Inside speakers and am now looking to add the Kicker amp. Do I understand correctly that the Focal 3-part harness (y connector, extension, and speaker SIM) is also plug-and-play with the Kicker amp? Or did you have to do any splicing? Also what made you mount the amp underneath the glove compartment (instead of inside as suggested by the OP @pro)? Thanks in advance!

 

I found this amazing thread a while ago, and I thought I could deal with the factory audio, but my disappointment finally got the better of me, so I decided to bite the bullet and upgrade my audio system.

It took me 3 days to get through this whole thread, but it was worth it!

I originally was going to buy the Flax series ( PS165FXE and PC165FE) as @pro suggested, but based on feedback from many folks including @p__x recent feedback on the amp making such a huge difference, I decided to go with the Focal Inside "plug-n-play" system instead, IS VW 165 and IC VW 165, and pair that with the Kicker KEY200.4 amp.

I just couldn't justify spending an extra $300 for the Flax series when the Inside series makes such a nice difference when paired with an amp.

I was able to get the IS an IC from Amazon.de, along with the Focal SPK-SIM adapter for $460 including shipping, tax, and currency conversion, which is pretty good.

I bought the Kicker Key200.4 amp from Crutchfield. They are always great, and it's worth paying a bit more there... but not twice as much for the Focals.

Based on everything I've read, and my own experience installing car audio, I've got some tips:

• Don't solder! Use butt splices instead. This is what VW recommends. It's much easier, and much more secure. Solder is brittle and can break, particularly lead-free solder.
  • Klein Tools 3005CR Ratcheting Insulated Terminal Crimper - $30 as of 11/10/23
  • --OR-- Off-brand ratcheting crimper, looks the same. Hilitchi tools, NOT Hitachi Tools, haha - $16.50 as of 11/10/23
  • --OR-- for tighter spaces, this looks just like the one I bought from RadioShack ~20 yrs. ago! Strips and crimps insulated and non-insulated - $20
  • Here's a nice box of 340 various heat shrink butt connectors for less than $23
  • ...or a cheaper box of 100 from a different brand for $10
  • Or you can buy individual bags of 210 connectors for $9 (currently $7 with $2 coupon) if you'll do a lot of other projects
  • Power and Ground are 14 AWG (gauge), and use the Blue 16-14AWG butt connectors
  • Speaker wire and remote wires are 18 AWG and use the Red 22-16AWG butt connectors
• As @mitigating suggested, don't waste your money on the ridiculous Focal ISO adapter. It's not made of gold. Several good options:
  • Search AliExpress for "MQB Extension" or "Quadlock / Quad Lock Extension". This 10 in. (23cm) one is $12.50 including shipping. This one is less than $16 shipped. I bought the $12.50 one, and it's great, with 18AWG speaker wire. Just have to cut speaker wires and splice it into the amp harness.
  • If you don't trust AliExpress, you can buy this Nulth "add an amplifier" adapter at Amazon for $31.50 after 10% coupon.
  • If you're itching to spend more than that, you can buy this PAC LPHVW02 amplifier harness at Abt for $59. Comes with harness already broken out with plugs to splice into your amp harness! The LPHVW01 is 40-pin for older VWs. Don't get that one.
  • MAKE SURE you get the 52-pin harness; I don't think the 40-pin is sufficient (missing the white connector).
• Instead of the expensive Focal Impulse amp harness, you can buy "Speed Wire", like this 18AWG Conext Link MSC918-10 10 Feet 9 Conductor wirefor less than $15.
  • 2 wires for each speaker (+/-) and 1 for the remote wire
  • you need enough length to go to the amp harness AND BACK to the speakers. 10 ft. should be sufficient, but I'll report back.
  • It also comes in 20 ft. length for $25.
  • Crutchfield sells their own brand of Speed Wire in 20ft. lengths for $25
• For a more "factory look", wrap your harness with friction tape (aka Tesa PET fabric tape). It keeps bundles together, deadens sound, and protects the wires.
• As others have said, order a bag of retractable door clips (3CN868243) and 2 or 3 A-pillar metal clips (5NA867276B) from your dealer
• I also bought this cheap rivet nut tool for $25 at the suggestion of @Jay_k. It comes with an M3, which shouldn't require drilling, just some M3 machine screws.

Finally, thanks to @Jay_k for the suggestion of the Kicker KEY200.4 amp. According to the docs, you aren't supposed to need the Focal Speaker Simulator (IHF06). You just press the "Radio Detect" button on the Kicker amp. However, according to @p__x, @fijshion and others, you still get a park sensor error. I'll try it both ways and see.

The docs say:

If you are using Hi-Level inputs, but your source unit cannot detect an audio system present or refuses to play audio out of one or more speakers, you may need to set Radio Detect to ON. This will activate a load resistor at the amplifier’s inputs and tell the source unit there are speakers present. Do NOT use Radio Detect if you are using a Low-Level input signal; doing so will greatly reduce the input signal.

The KEY200.4 also includes a "Fader" DIP switch, which allows us to just use the front L/R for input, driving all 4 speakers from that. That should help bypass that high treble drive that folks are reporting, but it breaks the factory fader.

Leave the fader switch to ON if you are running two sets of inputs (front and rear for example) to the amplifier. Set the fader switch OFF if you want to drive all channels from a single stereo input.

Hope this helps save folks some money. I'm planning on doing this at the same time I add the folding mirrors I got from Alibaba, and I'll also add some Dynamat while I'm at it. I'll try to take as many pics as I can!

 

I found this amazing thread a while ago, and I thought I could deal with the factory audio, but my disappointment finally got the better of me, so I decided to bite the bullet and upgrade my audio system.

It took me 3 days to get through this whole thread, but it was worth it!

I originally was going to buy the Flax series ( PS165FXE and PC165FE) as @pro suggested, but based on feedback from many folks including @p__x recent feedback on the amp making such a huge difference, I decided to go with the Focal Inside "plug-n-play" system instead, IS VW 165 and IC VW 165, and pair that with the Kicker KEY200.4 amp.

I just couldn't justify spending an extra $300 for the Flax series when the Inside series makes such a nice difference when paired with an amp.

I was able to get the IS an IC from Amazon.de, along with the Focal SPK-SIM adapter for $460 including shipping, tax, and currency conversion, which is pretty good.

Based on everything I've read, and my own experience installing car audio, I've got some tips:

• Don't solder! Use butt splices instead. This is what VW recommends. It's much easier, and much more secure. Solder is brittle and can break, particularly lead-free solder.
• As @mitigating suggested, don't waste your money on the ridiculous Focal ISO adapter. It's not made of gold. Several good options:
  • Search AliExpress for "MQB Extension" or "Quadlock / Quad Lock Extension". This 10 in. (23cm) one is $12.50 including shipping. This one is less than $16 shipped.
  • If you don't trust AliExpress, you can buy this Nulth "add an amplifier" adapter at Amazon for $31.50 after 10% coupon.
  • If you're itching to spend more than that, you can buy this PAC LPHVW01 amplifier harness at Crutchfield for $60 (I am unsure if this is 40-pin or 52-pin; you can't tell from the picture and it doesn't say! Buyer beware!)
  • MAKE SURE you get the 52-pin harness; I don't think the 40-pin is sufficient (missing the white connector).
• Instead of the expensive Focal Impulse harness, you can buy "Speed Wire", like this 18AWG Conext Link MSC918-10 10 Feet 9 Conductor wire. It also comes in 20 ft. for $25.
  • Crutchfield sells this in 20ft. length as well
• For a more "factory look", wrap your harness with friction tape. It keeps bundles together, deadens sound, and protects the wires.
• As others have said, order a bag of retractable door clips (3CN868243) and 2 or 3 A-pillar metal clips (5NA867276B) from your dealer
• I also bought this cheap rivet nut tool for $25 at the suggestion of @Jay_k. It comes with an M3, which shouldn't require drilling, just some M3 machine screws.

Finally, thanks to @Jay_k for the suggestion of the Kicker KEY200.4 amp. According to the docs, you aren't supposed to need the Focal Speaker Simulator (IHF06). You just press the "Radio Detect" button on the Kicker amp. However, according to @p__x, @fijshion and others, you still get a park sensor error. I'll try it both ways and see.

The docs say:


The KEY200.4 also includes a "Fader" DIP switch, which allows us to just use the front L/R for input, driving all 4 speakers from that. That should help bypass that high treble drive that folks are reporting, but it breaks the factory fader.


Hope this helps save folks some money. I'm planning on doing this at the same time I add the folding mirrors I got from Alibaba, and I'll also add some Dynamat while I'm at it. I'll try to take as many pics as I can!

There's also been some debate around disconnecting the center speaker improving sound stage. @alfadude1 is the most recent who did it and felt it improved sound.

The Fader option is a good question, BTW. I thought the car's sound system was quadrophonicm etc, but it seems like in reality it's just simple stereo, so I might play around with Fader too as the rear speakers' tuning is very dull with the kicker.

Dynamat is probably a good idea, I get rattles from my driver side door all the time.

 

Kicker amp question... Where does the purple wire go?

The first switch needs to be down for the amp to power on. Also make sure to push in the radio detect button.

I know this is from April, but I don't believe this is correct. These 2 things are related. The "purple wire" that @p__x asked about should connect to the blue "Remote" wire on the Kicker harness, and when the first DIP switch is set up (to 12V) it turns on the radio when it gets 12V on the blue wire.

Can someone else verify this? I'm haven't looked at it yet, but I believe this is correct if memory serves.

 

That would explain why radio detect didn't work for me.

 

@waldo22, when are you planning to install? I’m gonna tackle this project soon too, might wait til after you’ve done it and posted more pics!

 

@edrex hopefully in the next week or 2, I'm waiting for parts to get here. I'm also adding folding mirrors to my doors, but I forgot to tell them I have the Cosmic interior, so they sent a black window switch. I don't want to pull the door panel off twice, so I need that before I start. Hopefully next weekend, weather permitting.

 

also waiting on all the parts for my install as well. Same setup as waldo22 but i bought the overpriced harnesses...lol

 

Well at least those don't require splicing, except at the Kicker end if you're using the Kicker amp.