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I used 10w 20ohm cement resistors ( which I came to by asking Ai how I would make a focal speaker sim :ROFLMAO: ) I thought I would need closer to 8 ohm. But I got 10 for £2 and figured I could add 2 in parallel to get it closer to 10 ohm if needed , however 1 per channel works fine and doesn’t get hot. I get the feeling it doesn’t need to be exact. I’d be interested to know the spec of the original focal item , if you have a digital multimeter to test the resistance?

@waldo22 Thanks for your thread on adding a new circuit to the fuse box. I used that to add in a 30amp feed rather than going through the bulk head to the battery.
“Continuity Checks” done by microprocessors are usually VERY flexible as to what they'll accept for “Good Continuity”. It's in the nature of the electronics involved. I wouldn't be surprised to find that even several hundred ohms would be accepted as “good” and the high-valued resistor would have the advantage that it wouldn't be dissipating much power when being driven with audio so even a half-watt or quarter-watt carbon composition or film resistor would work.
 
“Continuity Checks” done by microprocessors are usually VERY flexible as to what they'll accept for “Good Continuity”. It's in the nature of the electronics involved. I wouldn't be surprised to find that even several hundred ohms would be accepted as “good” and the high-valued resistor would have the advantage that it wouldn't be dissipating much power when being driven with audio so even a half-watt or quarter-watt carbon composition or film resistor would work.
I’ve some 47 ohm ones I could try.
 
Hello, after reading the entire thread, I've come to conclude that I may have something in my North American 09/2023 ID4 Pro S plus (with factory sub) that may be unusually optioned.

I installed the Focal Inside ISVW165 and ICVW165 speakers. No amp, only speakers.

Rears Focals went without an issue. Plugged in, etc. They are an improvement.

The front tweeter and front door woofer both threw parking error codes and speaker codes.

I started looking closer and found the front door speaker connector is keyed differently than the Focal speaker. The keys are closer together and it's clearly wired as two separate voice coils. The Focal is two coils wired in parallel and has a wider keyway.
note don't hold me to pin numbers, I'm going from memory on them. (assuming 1,2,3,4. but it could be 4,3,2,1)

I've attached the connector photo (grabbed off ebay) Part# 6N0 972 704 (pin 1,3 is + , Pin 2,4 is -)
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The speaker connector is: (1,2 is +) (pin 3,4 is -)

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As you can see, the keyways are wider on the Focals speakers than the Door harness. Any thoughts as to what's going on? I have found no reference of a different connector. Initially, I just trimmed the key off and got audio through the speaker, but I'm starting to think I'm going to have to separate the coils on the Focal. Which may be an issue as they are wired in series and measure 2ohm. I'd likely get 2x 1 ohm coils)



note have ordered the focal 4.320 amp and 3 related harnesses as I was feeling too lazy to run down the terminals, connectors and crimp my own.

Wiring of the amp seems straightforward enough and I believe the speaker sim will cure my errors. However, does anyone have any ideas what's going on with the door connector? Does the amp actually drive it with two separate outputs? Diagnostics seems to indicate that as the system sees it as 2 speakers in the error codes.

When I toss this amp in, does anyone know if I'll lose my rear sub? I assume no, but suppose I should look into it's wiring in the harness before I install the amp.

Thanks for any guidance!
 
Didn't the Pro S Plus come with "VW Premium audio"? I think that means they are already using a separate amp and sub, but they didn't get Harmon Kardon/Bose/Bang Olufsen branding.

There are so few Pro S Pluses out there that I'm not sure how many folks have experience with this. I can check my wiring diagrams and see if I can share anything with you.
 
Didn't the Pro S Plus come with "VW Premium audio"? I think that means they are already using a separate amp and sub, but they didn't get Harmon Kardon/Bose/Bang Olufsen branding.

There are so few Pro S Pluses out there that I'm not sure how many folks have experience with this. I can check my wiring diagrams and see if I can share anything with you.
Thank you. I'd like to see what the diagram says before I go tearing into it and looking. I'm comfortable with reading diagrams if you share them.

yes, the 'premium' system is better. However, for the past 10 years, I've grown accustomed to the Porsche Burmester variety. While that system isn't competition worthy, it's quite good for an OEM system. My wife's EQS Burmester is also steller... So I'm willing to spend $12-1500 USD and 20-30 hours to get this all sorted out and bridge the gap. I'll never close the gap fully with that budget, but I bet I can get a lot closer.


On the "Plus" I am sure there is a sub/amp in the back, but I'd be surprised if there is another amp on the other 7 speakers. Once my amp arrives, I'll pull it apart more and see what other knowledge I'm missing.

I did find a thread on OBDeleven that discussed this very issue.
That thread is here: https://forum.obdeleven.com/thread/21052/distance-error-after-speaker-upgrade

As far as coding goes, porsche allowed me to tweak the frequencies on each channel in the system. I didn't see that it was included with OBDeleven when I poked around. I've ordered the RossTech(?) unit to see if it has anything else interesting.

I may unlock the 5f SFD with OBD11 and see if it stays unlocked wile I negotiate it with my Launch programmer. But that's a topic for another thread.


edit I looked at the uploaded diagrams, but they are dated 5/2021, so they won't cover mine. Looking closer at the unit, I dropped the glovebox enough to see behind the panel and saw what pretty much looked like all the photos I've seen in this thread (and others).

edit 2:
@waldo22 looks like I found how to turn these coils off. I have 10 pairs of coils to in the car and 10 are 'installed' in the sound module (47) in OBD11 VAG. Control unit 47, adaptation, function configuration audio. I'll remove the pins on 1 coil each door and tape them off, then see what errors I have so I can then turn them off.

I also tried this, I eliminated one set of voice coil and turned it off. Turning it off disabled the speaker output. So this isn't a viable option.
I'll expand this list as I explore more:
6TT: is the left front door speaker
8TT: is the right front door speaker.

Edit 3 I looked, the media center said it was connected via ethernet, so it's not a MOST system on the 23 pro s plus.

Edit 4 While digging, I found this information.
5h0.035.453.a is the HK front door speaker.
5h0.035.453.b is the HK rear door speaker.

These should be a direct drop in and would offer improvement at a very reasonable price vs the Focal speakers. I'll edit back here as I find more. Though, this is likely well known, I just didn't see it in this thread when I read it.

Edit 5 I went exploring. The audio unit does have ethernet. Looks like two pairs of 4 pins going into a cable that looks a lot like a fiber cable, but it for sure has copper in it. No provisions for door speakers in the connector. The audio unit does have male pins where speakers should be. I assume I could move it to internal outputs (I forget what it's called in the coding) and get it to pass sound there. I may try it, but it may also upset the parking sensors. Hopefully it'll pass signal to the ethernet and internal amp and I can just turn off the channels I don't use, or at minimum wire in speaker simulators. Then run the external amp.

To make the factory amp happy, I had to remove the 4.7 uF capacitor from the Focal tweeter. I'm not keen on running it wide open, but it was a huge improvement.OEm didn't have a cap, so I assume some filtering is done at the amp. My wife sounds true to life from the phone now vs like she has her hand over in front of her mouth talking.

The amp part number is: 5H0035456E. I had to look at a 2024 model to find it. Mine seems late enough of a build that this is the case for several of its features. (Late september 2023). it did not get the bigger screen, however.

I'll keep prowling as I get time.

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