[limeyinusa]

No clearance issues. I found the tires and wheels as a set in an ad for an Audi q5 so guessing that might be a good thing to search by either used or for compatibility. They’re sport edition brand but I couldn’t tell you model specific info. I’m not a wheel guy so I also can’t comment if that’s a good brand or not. One hiccup was that that the id4 lug nuts are not compatible. I was supplied with the original set for them, but originally forgot to tell the wheel place to swap them and my car vibrated like the balance was off. So if you get a used set, I would see if you can get all the hardware too.

So just to clarify the OEM lug nuts caused the vibration on the winter wheels ?
I'm asking as I've just ordered the exact setup you have and TireRack provide lug nuts.....I'm hoping that they will be ok.

 

[Stinsy]

So just to clarify the OEM lug nuts caused the vibration on the winter wheels ?
I'm asking as I've just ordered the exact setup you have and TireRack provide lug nuts.....I'm hoping that they will be ok.

The vibration would have been caused by the wheels not being mounted correctly. Audi Q5 wheels have a 66.5mm centre bore vs 57.1mm on the iD4. You can get away with this if you follow the correct tightening order and go around several times tightening them up a bit more each time, before torquing down. However a spigot ring is the correct solution. (Lug bolts are identical between iD4 and Q5).

 

[bean_dog_68]

Following up on this one. Ended up getting a wheel/tire package from Tire Rack. Got the Enkei Xm-6 18” wheels with Conti VikingContact tires. Chose this because it was in stock for quick delivery and we needed them ASAP for our Xmas eve plans. We took the car out on some completely frozen over roads last night and were very happy. They also look great (better than the stock wheels for sure),

Interesting note: I had the wheel package shipped to my local firestone which offered $20 installation directly scheduled via the Tire Rack website. However they were unwilling to install a square package since it is not recommended directly by OEM. So I just picked up the wheels and brought them to my local gas station/service (and paid $30 for the changeover).

Pictures to follow, eventually

 

[Stinsy]

Following up on this one. Ended up getting a wheel/tire package from Tire Rack. Got the Enkei Xm-6 18” wheels with Conti VikingContact tires. Chose this because it was in stock for quick delivery and we needed them ASAP for our Xmas eve plans. We took the car out on some completely frozen over roads last night and were very happy. They also look great (better than the stock wheels for sure),

Interesting note: I had the wheel package shipped to my local firestone which offered $20 installation directly scheduled via the Tire Rack website. However they were unwilling to install a square package since it is not recommended directly by OEM. So I just picked up the wheels and brought them to my local gas station/service (and paid $30 for the changeover).

Pictures to follow, eventually

Scandinavians outside the big cities literally only use two tires in winter: Nokian Hakka and Conti VikingContact. There’s a reason for that. I have no doubt you’ll find the Contis to be extremely capable in snow.

 

[Huey52]

Yes, the larger hub bore Audi wheels may be mounted on the smaller bore ID.4 but as well illustrated greater care must be taken. Adding "hub centric rings" is the better way to go for not only ease of mounting but also anti-vibration peace of mind.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/hub-centric-rings-set-of-four/ap666571~k/

So just to clarify the OEM lug nuts caused the vibration on the winter wheels ?
I'm asking as I've just ordered the exact setup you have and TireRack provide lug nuts.....I'm hoping that they will be ok.

The vibration would have been caused by the wheels not being mounted correctly. Audi Q5 wheels have a 66.5mm centre bore vs 57.1mm on the iD4. You can get away with this if you follow the correct tightening order and go around several times tightening them up a bit more each time, before torquing down. However a spigot ring is the correct solution. (Lug bolts are identical between iD4 and Q5).

View attachment 19142

 

[limeyinusa]

So I've got TireRack mobile installation fitting my new wheels and winter tires and they are asking for a picture of the wheel and lug bolts which has really freaked me out that they know nothing about EVs and specifically the ID4. Anyone got any advice or reassuring words ??

 

[bean_dog_68]

So I've got TireRack mobile installation fitting my new wheels and winter tires and they are asking for a picture of the wheel and lug bolts which has really freaked me out that they know nothing about EVs and specifically the ID4. Anyone got any advice or reassuring words ??

There’s nothing EV specific about the changeover. My advice is to take the wheel package from TireRack (which should include all the required bolts) to your local auto mechanic and have them do the changeover there. No experience with TireRack mobile, but Firestone (another large tire company) refused to do my changeover due to non-OEM 18” wheel size, and I’ve read elsewhere that people had the same issues at Costco. I was a bit annoyed/stressed when I got turned away by Firestone… but a local auto mechanic will have no such policies/issues, and it’s a pretty straightforward job. It will work out!

 

[limeyinusa]

There’s nothing EV specific about the changeover. My advice is to take the wheel package from TireRack (which should include all the required bolts) to your local auto mechanic and have them do the changeover there. No experience with TireRack mobile, but Firestone (another large tire company) refused to do my changeover due to non-OEM 18” wheel size, and I’ve read elsewhere that people had the same issues at Costco. I was a bit annoyed/stressed when I got turned away by Firestone… but a local auto mechanic will have no such policies/issues, and it’s a pretty straightforward job. It will work out!

Thanks, really appreciate the feedback. I did end up talking to a local VW service rep and he resolved one of my issues. That was the black cap over the lug bolts. Never seen a cap that had the weird hex shape in the middle. I was thinking that was the lug bolt. I know embarrassing....my first EV.

 

[axtran]

Thanks, really appreciate the feedback. I did end up talking to a local VW service rep and he resolved one of my issues. That was the black cap over the lug bolts. Never seen a cap that had the weird hex shape in the middle. I was thinking that was the lug bolt. I know embarrassing....my first EV.

If it makes you feel better, the weird lug cover with the hex in it is a VW thing in general, not EV thing

 

[23TomEV]

This is awesome info. Just to confirm, you have no clearance issues on your 18" setup with the 2023 AWD? I've seen limited confirmation that this will be compatible with the 2023 AWD model so I've been a little hesitant (although I doubt anything has really changed from 21/22).

Also, what are those wheels you're rocking?

Yes. The snow has been crazy here in Buffalo so far. I was at work the morning of Dec 23 when the blizzard rolled in off the lake. (I work on the west side of Buffalo about a mile inland from Lake Erie). Worst storm I have ever seen. It hit fast and hard. I left work at about noon. My car was completely iced over while on the charger. I unplugged and drove home 20 miles in heavy, blinding snow and 70mph gusts. The plows couldn't even get out. Can't see, can't plow.

Made it home safe and sound in about 90 minutes. The ID4 was again incredible in the snow! No traction issues at all. Very confident in it's bad weather handling, especially after driving in that blizzard.

 

[Maddog007]

I want to thank the large number of forum members for the thoughtful comments and recommendations on the topic of winter tires that developed over many months. From that, I was able to make a decision to put winter tires on my 2022 ID4 AWD Gradient Pro S which finally arrived in November.

I went with Blizzak DMV2 235/60 R18 tires mounted to Liquid Metal 18 x 8 112-5 black wheels, MKMTXX, offset 40, load 1800. I ordered both from Discount Tire and offer here a couple of pearls I discovered. If you sign up for their club (which is free) on your first order they deduct over $100. Secondly, as a veteran, there is 5% off the orders as well. Now ordering these online was tricky because their system won’t allow you to order these for an ID4 that has 20” wheels. By trial and error, I ended up telling them the wheels and tires were for a 2015 Audi Q5 3.0. I read about the hassles of trying to get dealers to put the tires onto the car because it isn’t OEM specs, but as I have a car lift in my garage and was going to mount them myself, I didn’t pursue trying to convince them. I was able to get them to remove their automatic charges for installation in their price.

Following advice on the forum, I used the VW Jack Pad adapters from ECS Tuning, their part # ES 3999167. These are fairly expensive as I needed 4 to use the car lift. But the slot is larger than normal jack pad adapters as the pinch weld is wider on the ID4. And notice that the inside of the adapter is higher than the outside. They fit perfectly and to my surprise there was no distortion at all. It is a heavy vehicle, and they still look new.

The VW wheels use a M14 x 1.5 inch lug bolt with a spherical seat. Pretty much all aftermarket wheels use a conical seat. I got a set of 20 lug bolts with conical seats from Amazon. From Amazon, I also got a 17 mm impact deep socket (part of a set) ½” drive, and an impact extension of 3/8” to ½”. This was so that I could use my Makita impact driver. And lastly, I need to thank the person that mentioned the alignment pin. I had never heard of this, and I cannot imagine mounting the tires without this. It is M14 x 1.5 as well.

My AWD being dual motor, the weight is 50-50. The center point is in the middle of the front door handle. I put the car in position, rotated the lift pads to the indicted lift points (that have the little triangle), and put in the jack pad adapters. I loosened all the lug bolts using a ½” breaker bar. I don’t know if this was necessary, but it was handy, so why not use it? Then I lifted the wheels off the garage floor. It was easy to remove the lug bolts with the impact wrench using the extension and the 17 mm deep socket. I wouldn’t have known about the plastic caps over the lug bolt heads or how to use remove the theft protection bolts if it hadn’t been for forum discussions.

The hub on the new wheels is larger than on the ID4, but the hub rings snapped right in to make the correct fit. To install, lift the tire and put in the alignment pin at 12 o’clock. As someone mentioned, the mounted tires are amazingly heavy, and to try to hold in position without the alignment pin would be long and frustrating. This is my first car using lug bolts instead of lug nuts. Manually start the new lug bolts and tighten with the impact wrench. Then I used a torque lug wrench from Harbor Freight that I set at 100 ft-lbs. I know the recommended setting is 88, but 100 was the closest I could set on the lug wrench. All in all, less than 1 hour

$764 tires, $683 wheels, $10 hub rings, $32 lug bolts, $16 17mm deep impact socket, $8 3/8” to ½” impact extension, $8 M14x1.5 alignment pin, and $90 jack pad adapters à $1611.

For those into math, the outside circumference of the new tire set is 2321 mm. The normal front tires of 235/50 R20 have a circumference of 2333 mm, and the normal rear tires of 255/45 R20 are 2316 mm. Thus, there is not a relevant difference. The car computer didn’t notice, and there was nothing to adjust for pressure monitoring or speed. If there is an increase in road noise, it is minimal. The streets are full of potholes this time of year, and I feel better with the extra cushioning of the wider winter tires that also have more rubber/air between the rim and the road.

I read the forum nearly every day for 6 months before my car arrived. My newbie experience of this wonderful car would have been totally different without the information and experiences shared in the forum. Of course, opinions and experiences vary, but that is what makes this forum so rich and valuable.

So, to all of you that contribute to this forum both as questions or answers, I thank you!

 

[limeyinusa]

I want to thank the large number of forum members for the thoughtful comments and recommendations on the topic of winter tires that developed over many months. From that, I was able to make a decision to put winter tires on my 2022 ID4 AWD Gradient Pro S which finally arrived in November.

I went with Blizzak DMV2 235/60 R18 tires mounted to Liquid Metal 18 x 8 112-5 black wheels, MKMTXX, offset 40, load 1800. I ordered both from Discount Tire and offer here a couple of pearls I discovered. If you sign up for their club (which is free) on your first order they deduct over $100. Secondly, as a veteran, there is 5% off the orders as well. Now ordering these online was tricky because their system won’t allow you to order these for an ID4 that has 20” wheels. By trial and error, I ended up telling them the wheels and tires were for a 2015 Audi Q5 3.0. I read about the hassles of trying to get dealers to put the tires onto the car because it isn’t OEM specs, but as I have a car lift in my garage and was going to mount them myself, I didn’t pursue trying to convince them. I was able to get them to remove their automatic charges for installation in their price.

Following advice on the forum, I used the VW Jack Pad adapters from ECS Tuning, their part # ES 3999167. These are fairly expensive as I needed 4 to use the car lift. But the slot is larger than normal jack pad adapters as the pinch weld is wider on the ID4. And notice that the inside of the adapter is higher than the outside. They fit perfectly and to my surprise there was no distortion at all. It is a heavy vehicle, and they still look new.

The VW wheels use a M14 x 1.5 inch lug bolt with a spherical seat. Pretty much all aftermarket wheels use a conical seat. I got a set of 20 lug bolts with conical seats from Amazon. From Amazon, I also got a 17 mm impact deep socket (part of a set) ½” drive, and an impact extension of 3/8” to ½”. This was so that I could use my Makita impact driver. And lastly, I need to thank the person that mentioned the alignment pin. I had never heard of this, and I cannot imagine mounting the tires without this. It is M14 x 1.5 as well.

My AWD being dual motor, the weight is 50-50. The center point is in the middle of the front door handle. I put the car in position, rotated the lift pads to the indicted lift points (that have the little triangle), and put in the jack pad adapters. I loosened all the lug bolts using a ½” breaker bar. I don’t know if this was necessary, but it was handy, so why not use it? Then I lifted the wheels off the garage floor. It was easy to remove the lug bolts with the impact wrench using the extension and the 17 mm deep socket. I wouldn’t have known about the plastic caps over the lug bolt heads or how to use remove the theft protection bolts if it hadn’t been for forum discussions.

The hub on the new wheels is larger than on the ID4, but the hub rings snapped right in to make the correct fit. To install, lift the tire and put in the alignment pin at 12 o’clock. As someone mentioned, the mounted tires are amazingly heavy, and to try to hold in position without the alignment pin would be long and frustrating. This is my first car using lug bolts instead of lug nuts. Manually start the new lug bolts and tighten with the impact wrench. Then I used a torque lug wrench from Harbor Freight that I set at 100 ft-lbs. I know the recommended setting is 88, but 100 was the closest I could set on the lug wrench. All in all, less than 1 hour

$764 tires, $683 wheels, $10 hub rings, $32 lug bolts, $16 17mm deep impact socket, $8 3/8” to ½” impact extension, $8 M14x1.5 alignment pin, and $90 jack pad adapters à $1611.

For those into math, the outside circumference of the new tire set is 2321 mm. The normal front tires of 235/50 R20 have a circumference of 2333 mm, and the normal rear tires of 255/45 R20 are 2316 mm. Thus, there is not a relevant difference. The car computer didn’t notice, and there was nothing to adjust for pressure monitoring or speed. If there is an increase in road noise, it is minimal. The streets are full of potholes this time of year, and I feel better with the extra cushioning of the wider winter tires that also have more rubber/air between the rim and the road.

I read the forum nearly every day for 6 months before my car arrived. My newbie experience of this wonderful car would have been totally different without the information and experiences shared in the forum. Of course, opinions and experiences vary, but that is what makes this forum so rich and valuable.

So, to all of you that contribute to this forum both as questions or answers, I thank you!

View attachment 21289

View attachment 21290

Good information(and very detailed) thanks. I got the same setup from Tire rack.
Enjoy the winter. The car is sooo much better with winter tires on. In MN they are a must have.

 

[Atlant]

With separate wheels you’ll pay maybe close to $30 or $40 to have them swapped or could do it yourself with a jack.

This is especially true on the ID.4 because it uses an “Indirect” TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) so it doesn't have uniquely-identified TPMS transmitters in each wheel. That means that there's no need for specialized equipment to recalibrate the TPMS after swapping wheels. The most you'd need to do is use the car's menus to command it to recalibrate the TPMS.

 

[Atlant]

If it makes you feel better, the weird lug cover with the hex in it is a VW thing in general, not EV thing

And Audis have used plastic lug nut decorators for years as well.

 

[Farfrumwork]

Here's the winter set for our ID. Square setup.

Audi Q5 wheels 19 x 8 ET39 (with hub centric rings for 57.1mm ID4 hubs)
Pirelli Scorpion Winters (235/55/19) - 105 load rating

OEM (staggered 20" setup)

With new winter set (no center caps here yet)

Found center caps that fit the larger Hub of the Q5 wheels - sweet. Now they look factory.

I'd have preferred some Hakka's, but it was a poor time of year to buy winters (most were out of stock). Although the Pirelli's are great handling/sport winter tires that are loads better than the OEM Pirellis (Scorpion 'all season') in winter conditions.


I really like the Q5 wheels! They look pretty bad ass, and I'd like to replace the OEM wheels someday for a summer set, but they are new and have new tires so..... (stupid staggered setup throws a wrench into 'cheaper' wheel upgrades - i.e. swap the tires onto new (square setup) wheels)


Also to note that the older Q5 wheels like these are a R14 ball seat, vs the stock ID4 wheel bolts that are a R13 ball seats. I researched and found that they work fine (R13 bolt in a wheel built for a R14 bolt), but to be 100% you'd want to pick up some R14 bolts ($50-100/set). I'll check ours frequently to make sure they are not losing torque, and maybe pick up some new bolts next year. But I'm not worried.