[Moe]

Regardless of whether you like NACS or CCS1 or CHAdeMO or "ratty extension cord with duct tape to cover the torn insulation so that I can connect to the dryer outlet in the basement," wrapping a wet cloth around the connector to help charging rates in hot weather by fooling the temperature sensors seems like about the most brain dead idea out there. Not only is this a case of trying to bypass the safety features, it is a case of mixing electricity and water. The arc flash could be a real spectacle!

If a wet rag causes arc flash, I guess you can’t charge an EV in the rain?

 

[p7wang]

Regardless of whether you like NACS or CCS1 or CHAdeMO or "ratty extension cord with duct tape to cover the torn insulation so that I can connect to the dryer outlet in the basement," wrapping a wet cloth around the connector to help charging rates in hot weather by fooling the temperature sensors seems like about the most brain dead idea out there. Not only is this a case of trying to bypass the safety features, it is a case of mixing electricity and water. The arc flash could be a real spectacle!

I guess EV boats are a bad idea? You sound "like a smart person". LOL

Actual smart person would say that water is not a problem. But tricking the sensor is a bad idea because the system is designed to work safely as designed.

 

[Dougie01]

If a wet rag causes arc flash, I guess you can’t charge an EV in the rain?

Taking your question seriously, I would say that the connector is designed to shield against water spray ingress. Maybe if it is really raining hard and you pointed the connector upwards and held it for a couple of seconds before plugging it in then you could get standing water inside. My view would be to exercise caution when charging in the rain.

There's a rating system, the Ingress Protection rating. The IP rating has two numbers, the first for solid intrusions (nails, dust) and the second for liquid. IP 54 is for connectors protected against dust and spraying water, IP 56 is for "powerful jets of water," and IP 57 is if it's protected against immersion. This source says that most CCS connectors are 54, 55, or 65. Also, the protection is against electrocution, not short circuits between the pins. That is what would give you an arc flash.

The thing about a towel is that there could be, depending on how enthusiastically you wet it down, a lot of water--not a spray but a puddle--going onto the connector. I think it could manage to be bad enough to cause a problem. For example, I don't think it would be a good idea to have the connector completely submerged in water.

The system is designed to detect a variety of fault modes, but if you short circuit the high voltage leads to each other it's going to make an exciting spark!

 

[p7wang]

Taking your question seriously, I would say that the connector is designed to shield against water spray ingress. Maybe if it is really raining hard and you pointed the connector upwards and held it for a couple of seconds before plugging it in then you could get standing water inside. My view would be to exercise caution when charging in the rain.

There's a rating system, the Ingress Protection rating. The IP rating has two numbers, the first for solid intrusions (nails, dust) and the second for liquid. IP 54 is for connectors protected against dust and spraying water, IP 56 is for "powerful jets of water," and IP 57 is if it's protected against immersion. This source says that most CCS connectors are 54, 55, or 65. Also, the protection is against electrocution, not short circuits between the pins. That is what would give you an arc flash.

The thing about a towel is that there could be, depending on how enthusiastically you wet it down, a lot of water--not a spray but a puddle--going onto the connector. I think it could manage to be bad enough to cause a problem. For example, I don't think it would be a good idea to have the connector completely submerged in water.

The system is designed to detect a variety of fault modes, but if you short circuit the high voltage leads to each other it's going to make an exciting spark!

I would caution against using Brawndo... it's got electrolyte (thus more conductive).

 

[Larrygr]

So

I think there is not much to worry about. I looked at at tear down of an adapter and it is all mechanical. looks like the only thing onboard are temperature sensors (no digital communication so it is just a pass through). I bought a $65 dollar nacs to ccs adapter from ebay and tried it on my sons bolt and it worked fine. For the chevy the charge session is started on the app pretty much like EA. so i don't see any reason why the ID4 would have a problem as long as the vehicle type is white listed in the supercharger network

 

[Nai3t]

It's probably just Tesla playing it safe. I didn't see the fine print, but on their main page re: Supercharger access right off the top they say "adapters provided by your vehicle manufacturer."

I think, for launch, that's the safest way to go: ensure the other vehicle's manufacturer is "full in" by making them provide an adapter. That way if anything goes awry, they can point fingers right back at a very clear target.

Of course, these being dumb pass-through devices, there is no way to discern what adapter is being used. But at least if something goes haywire, Tesla (and the other automaker) can say "we told ya."

 

[Ida Red]

So

I think there is not much to worry about. I looked at at tear down of an adapter and it is all mechanical. looks like the only thing onboard are temperature sensors (no digital communication so it is just a pass through). I bought a $65 dollar nacs to ccs adapter from ebay and tried it on my sons bolt and it worked fine. For the chevy the charge session is started on the app pretty much like EA. so i don't see any reason why the ID4 would have a problem as long as the vehicle type is white listed in the supercharger network

I agree. There are some people who are gullible suckers as soon as you say "safety" and who would only put VW brand air in their tires if VW told them to but personally I like to live dangerously and am buying the cheapest Chinese adapter I can find on Amazon. If the car catches on fire, I have insurance. I am not paying VW $200+ for a hunk of plastic with a few copper contacts. The cheapest one I have seen on Amazon is like $69 after coupon but they seem to be falling by the day so I am waiting until Tesla actually opens the network to VW. In addition, there is still some (slim) chance that VW will give us the adapters for free.

Speaking of which, earlier we heard "June" but we are 10 days away from June and no further word.

 

[Nai3t]

I like to live dangerously and am buying the cheapest Chinese adapter I can find on Amazon.

😆 I get the sentiment and alternately agree but squirm at that. 400 volts ain't no joke, yet once everybody gets a handle on these they ought to be produced for a dime a system... well... you know, commodity pricing.

It has been interesting to see both Ford / Lectron and A2Z publicly go back to the drawing board with their designs, but quickly the market is going to settle the cheapest working solution and it'll be (basically) copied.

 

[EnergizerBunny]

I believe it was end of June.
Yeah I’m as anxious as everyone else but please do not encourage purchasing of cheap adapters.
Lectron is 170 shipped… surely 100$ will not make or break an id4 owner.
We have enough problems as it is.

 

[Nai3t]

do not encourage purchasing of cheap adapters.
Lectron is 170 shipped

Price alone does not indicate the quality of an adapter.

Lectron, A2Z and others have undeniably invested capital into the development of their adapters, and they have every right to try to change a premium to recoup those expenses.

But there's not $170 worth of materials in these adapters, and once they're commodity items, a well designed unit ought to easily come in under $100.

Just look at the state of market for CCS1 to Tesla adapters.

 

[EnergizerBunny]

Bill of materials would probably be 5 $, but design and testing makes all the difference.
UL certification should be a minimum.

In the absence of Tesla or VW, I barely trust Lectron but for now it would have to do.
I’ll probably buy again the OEM later.

I prefer to minimize any risks I can if cost and effort is not too much.

 

[Ida Red]

Bill of materials would probably be 5 $, but design and testing makes all the difference.
UL certification should be a minimum.

In the absence of Tesla or VW, I barely trust Lectron but for now it would have to do.
I’ll probably buy again the OEM later.

I prefer to minimize any risks I can if cost and effort is not too much.

As of now there are zero UL approved adapters on the market although they are supposed coming. Amphenol is supposedly going to be the 1st to market.